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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How heavy are the stock clutch weights for a 660? What do the heavier weights do for power and speed?
 

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stock 660 weights is 18 grams total ,

700 weights are 20 grams total,

lighter weights will give u more rpm's and low end , heavier take of slower and add a few more to the top end, and hp has alot to do with weights and spring color,
 

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How heavy are the stock clutch weights for a 660? What do the heavier weights do for power and speed?
Heavier weights will cause the sheaves to up shift at lower rpm's potentially killing torque.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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FYI on my experience on weights and springs

Had grease type 14 g weights and changed to Greaseless for ease of maintenance. Grease type getting dirty and hanging up stopping the shift and speed. Tried stock spring, then Orange secondary spring and went back to Stock spring. Found out the Orange spring moved my RPM range at all speeds up about 500 RPM. I have a large tack and do so looking when I can. The Orange spring let me come out of the hole at 7400RPM and then it started shifting. Great for everything performance wise on the drags and hills but for dunning it kept me BUZZED UP between 6000 and 7400 RPM. The Stock spring brought me down to 5000 to 7000 when dunning and still kept my RPMs up pretty good on the China Wall and Olds. Found out that these engines go 8500RPM when flowed, cammed, carbed, etc. but I have a mild stroke, mild cam with stock cases and did not want to face the "blow up" sooner than latter. I think I am in my power ban (LOL) if I have one, NOW. PS most the Hi comp 686's that ran great had 14 g weights and Orange springs this last guys trip by CAMshaw. However, they don't have tacks to compare RPMs with.
 

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How heavy are the stock clutch weights for a 660? What do the heavier weights do for power and speed?
Stock weights are 16g on 660 and 18g on a 700...

If want an improvement in your hole shot get a sheave machined for lower gearing from a stop like the JBS...

And if you want more climbing power, better engine braking, get a an orange secondary spring...regardless of motor/vehicle mods...

Select your primary weights based on motor mods/ vehicle weight/ tire size/ application...

If you have basically stock rhino hp/lb and stock tires and round weights you cannot go wrong with orange spring and 16g weights...
 

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How heavy are the stock clutch weights for a 660? What do the heavier weights do for power and speed?
Stock weights are 16g on 660 and 18g on a 700...

If want an improvement in your hole shot get a sheave machined for lower gearing from a stop like the JBS...

And if you want more climbing power, better engine braking, get a an orange secondary spring...regardless of motor/vehicle mods...

Select your primary weights based on motor mods/ vehicle weight/ tire size/ application...

If you have basically stock rhino hp/lb and stock tires and round weights you cannot go wrong with orange spring and 16g weights...

the last 4 sets of oem rhino 700 weights i seen are 20 grams each and do not have covers there 1 piece,

people that have 700's do upgrade to the 18's if thats what u mean
 

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How heavy are the stock clutch weights for a 660? What do the heavier weights do for power and speed?
Stock weights are 16g on 660 and 18g on a 700...

If want an improvement in your hole shot get a sheave machined for lower gearing from a stop like the JBS...

And if you want more climbing power, better engine braking, get a an orange secondary spring...regardless of motor/vehicle mods...

Select your primary weights based on motor mods/ vehicle weight/ tire size/ application...

If you have basically stock rhino hp/lb and stock tires and round weights you cannot go wrong with orange spring and 16g weights...

the last 4 sets of oem rhino 700 weights i seen are 20 grams each and do not have covers there 1 piece,

people that have 700's do upgrade to the 18's if thats what u mean

Yes, unless Yamaha changed them later the 700's had 20 gr. roller weights with non-removable covers. To my knowledge they even stopped making 20 gr. OD weights also because the 18's perform better in the stock 700 rhino. I have a set of 20's though if someone wants to try them.
 

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Thanks I did not know they changed the 700s along the way...

660s are 16g all years from the factory...

Keep in mind that 16g is a rounded off number as are all the steel aftermarket inserts for 660s I have ever seen which is a bunch...

Every round and OD greaseless Dr. Pulley weight I have measured was dead-on the money...nib of course...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought the blue spring years ago. I did see a change. But with the R & D that everybody has done, what would be the best combo for me. Bronco clutch? I have a 686, custom headers, 10:1 JE piston, KMS sheve , stock weights, 26" big horns, Mikuni carb, 1450 lbs wet and race ready.
 

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I bought the blue spring years ago. I did see a change. But with the R & D that everybody has done, what would be the best combo for me. Bronco clutch? I have a 686, custom headers, 10:1 JE piston, KMS sheve , stock weights, 26" big horns, Mikuni carb, 1450 lbs wet and race ready.
What type of riding or racing.? I like my orange spring, 13g weights and my AzCourt machined sheave....lots of out of the hole and still topping out around 60 plus depending on conditions

Have stock 450 weights in now and its alittle much in the dirt..nice for the sand tho
 

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I bought the blue spring years ago. I did see a change. But with the R & D that everybody has done, what would be the best combo for me. Bronco clutch? I have a 686, custom headers, 10:1 JE piston, KMS sheve , stock weights, 26" big horns, Mikuni carb, 1450 lbs wet and race ready.
You need at least an orange spring it will be huge improvement over the blue for what you have...you might like the purple or gold better...

The smart thing to do is get all three and test each one with stock 16g weights or better still 16g greaseless...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is it even worth the effort compared to the Bronco clutch? What speed or torque differences will the orange give. I am interested in the greaseless weights for sure. Were to buy and what are good prices for the spring and weights? I have a race Jan 6.
 

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I bought the blue spring years ago. I did see a change. But with the R & D that everybody has done, what would be the best combo for me. Bronco clutch? I have a 686, custom headers, 10:1 JE piston, KMS sheve , stock weights, 26" big horns, Mikuni carb, 1450 lbs wet and race ready.
You need at least an orange spring it will be huge improvement over the blue for what you have...you might like the purple or gold better...

The smart thing to do is get all three and test each one with stock 16g weights or better still 16g greaseless...
When u say 16g weights are you talking total weight or without the covers
 

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total weight hes talking ,


everyone i know with a built motor luv's lighter weights, 12-14 total grams ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I race in the desert with BITD. I was under the asumption that the heavier weights would give me more speed at the top end. I will change the spring asap. But nobody has commented on the Bronco clutch. If that clutch blows the stock set up even modified correctly, why waist the time and Money?
 

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I race in the desert with BITD. I was under the asumption that the heavier weights would give me more speed at the top end. I will change the spring asap. But nobody has commented on the Bronco clutch. If that clutch blows the stock set up even modified correctly, why waist the time and Money?

broncos are loud and can eat belts, yes its a good clutch for racing, bring a spare belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
We always carry a spare. As far as noise, we either have helmets on or our head sets due to how loud it is already. Good as in it will help me with speed and and delivered power? Our races last from 3 to 18 hours if all goes well. Will that clutch eat a belt when we are moving? I am aware of the clutch doing damage while you are at idle and the rhino is not moving.
 
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