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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a low torque problem when I take off. it is hesitant to go untill I get a little speed going then it acts fine. very weak feeling when hill climbing. when I removed the engine cover I noticed that my clutch air intake hose had slipped off. I read in a different thread about a guy who thought his weight covers were warped when this happened to him because it was sucking hot air off of the exhaust.... I took off the cover on the belt/sheave side. sheave felt good, belt was good n' tight/ looked pretty good.

What now. anythoughts, could I have warped my weight covers? the weights, covers, spring,sheave are all stock

Procom CDI, UNI intake filter, yoshimura exhaust.
 

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Go Grease Less NOW

We are now a dealer for WV Hot Rod Sheaves and grease less products...

Get a machined sheave for your 660 with o.d. grease less weights and all that goes away...

In addition to restoring and improving your original acceleration you will have no grease or stock roller problems anymore a top speed 55 mph with your stock airbox and un-tuned carb but should be able to do 58 with the new sheave and o.d. weights combined with our high flow air intake and properly jetted carb...

Or you could remove your primary sheave and degrease it and install o.d. weights w/o machining your sheave but you won't get superior acceleration...top speed about the same...

Or you could degrease and install grease-less round weights and have basically the same as new rhino only no grease and slightly better than stock acceleration and no additional top speed...

Oh yeah...one more benefit if the grease less o.d. weights is lower cruising rpms...

Best bang for the buck ever for a rhino...followed closely by our custom air intake and jet kit... :)

We offer more options than currently show on the website too...

There is no time like the present to go grease less... :)

Go Grease Less w/ RuttingRhino and WV Hot Rod Rhino Sheaves

PM me or email through our website for more options and pricing not show or to clarify any questions you may have...tia
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds good, and I do plan on doing the WVsheave\ weights\spring MOD but I first want to find out what the problem is. This isn't something that has gradually happened, it happened overnight. literally. Any thoughts to what my problem is.
 

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660 or 700 procom cdi so a 660 ?


when u climb the hill is the motor reving hi and climbing slow up the hill ?

or is it just sound like its bogging down and not making it up the hill ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
660, engine reving like normal, but not much power going to the ground. Wet Clutch :( ?
 

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The only thing you can do to find out is take the primary off and inspect the sheaves and degrease and inspect the rollers and make sure all looks good and reassemble and re-test...

Revving normal and no power to the ground is a contradiction in terms...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's reving like normal, but feels like it's a manual transmission, kinda like I am riding the clutch. feels like it's not fully engaging until I get rolling. then all seems normal.
 

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That could be your wet clutch but the answer is the same do the easy thing first that needs to be done anyway and then if that all checks out and works fine and you are still slipping you should replace the wet clutch...

If it just started doing it out of the blue it's probably in the primary but guessing won't fix it... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am stupid when it comes to the clutch on these. what in the primary if you were a guessing man could be the problem ?
 

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660, engine reving like normal, but not much power going to the ground. Wet Clutch :( ?

Could be wet clutch, but generally your rpm would be up all the time with a slipping clutch. Definetely find your problem first before you start making changes. How far down in your primary sheave is your belt sitting?
 

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it could be a number of things,

take clutch cover off under dirver seat , hunterworks.com has videos of everything u need to watch to be fixed on a rhino on his site,

also ur oil is good and is wet clutch approved oil ?

also make sure ur E-brake is off? lol

does it feel lie sumthing is draggind the bike all the sudden ? all 4 tires roll good ? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
clutch cover is off already, without taking anything else apart it looks good so far, but I guess I really can't tell much at this point. always use Yamalube. tell me, what should I be looking for in there? belt looks great. i do have a bit of splattered Mud on the cover that goes over the sheave.

*Update* facing the engine (clutch side) on the left side the belt sits 5/8" down. On the right side the belt sits 1.25" down... Not sure how far down the belt should sit. will do a search in the meantime.
 

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It's time to remove the primary and there is a spec on the belt width don't remember it off the top my head...

Take pics...nobody is gonna go take their cover off and make those measurements...

Well... I guess you could get lucky on that... :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
those measurements have been sponsored by :alcoholic::alcoholic:

measured the belt it's just a tiny hair over 1.25" wide


I do alot of water riding, and it looks like there has been quite a bit of water behind the belt cover/ isnt wet now, but you can see where alot of muddy water has dried up.
dont have an impact to remove anything else so I will have a few more :alcoholic:and stare at it for a while. can this be removed by a 18V impact? or would I just be pissing in the wind.
 

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ur sheave is full of junk and will not close all the way , making it stay in higher range , the belt should sit down 3-4 inches inbetween the sheave halves

ur belt is good i think ,

clean sheave get new OD sliding weights NO grease,
 

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You are pissn in the wind... :)

You need a good impact and at least 90 psi...

Someone suggested going to a tire shop and ask them to pop it off....good idea imo...

It's beer thirty here which means you must be sleeping it off by now your time... :rofl3:

When you wake up you should buy now a 660 machined sheave and grease less od sliders... :)

That way you will be sooooo much better off when it goes back together... :)

Now if you go back and look at when that money was burnin a hole in your pocket you should have taken my advice then but it's not too late now...

Right benzo... :)
 

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Your belt should be at the bottom of your primary. If is not riding at the bottom then yes, your Rhino will act very sluggish until you get up to a speed that matches where your RPM should be. Disassemble, clean, grease, and re-assemble to test. Throwing new parts in the equation is not recommended until after the problem is solved. The only problem we have ever seen with stock weights or EPI style weights(above 11grams) is over-greasing them just like Yamaha does.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the advise guys. I knew someone could understand my measurements sponsored by:alcoholic::alcoholic: As soon as I can pop that sheave off with an impact I will do all that has been suggested. I will update this thread when I figure out exactly what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Do you think I would have much luck removing that with an electric impact?... just dont have enough umph in my tiny little compressor to think about removing that nut. Nor do i have a trailor to take it anywhere, guess I might have to borrow one.
 
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