Hello guys, this is on a rhino 660 2005. I bought the atv used and I noticed when I let off the gas I would hear a belt noise like it was trying to grab but couldnt. So I took cover off and saw where the previous owner had cut the housing where the belt wouldn't rub. So I ordered a new belt, housing, and hunter works sheave. After installing all the parts I noticed the new belt ride awfully close to top of housing on front cover. Rode it this last weekend and after a few rides around the yard I started to hear this noise again. Its only when I let off gas. Well then I tried to ride it down the rode made it .8 mile down the rode before it revved up. I stopped right away and when and got trailer. When loading it it would sound like belt slippage. Last night I took cover off and noticed the belt had rode high up on front pulley like before and started to make a mark in cover. Any ideas what could be wrong? Is there supposed to be a washer or something in front pulley? Is there a way to get belt to ride lower in the sheave?
clutch problems
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get a JBS sheave....
your belt should not be touching the cover, mine comes up out of the secondary (which is the front big pulley) only about as much as the ribs on top of the belt.
HW tried to make lowest possible gearing, but with the belt rubbing the cover, and the lip on the primary is causes friction and ruins other pieces of the machine in the process.
they're might be a shim behind the primary sheave also...
your belt should not be touching the cover, mine comes up out of the secondary (which is the front big pulley) only about as much as the ribs on top of the belt.
HW tried to make lowest possible gearing, but with the belt rubbing the cover, and the lip on the primary is causes friction and ruins other pieces of the machine in the process.
they're might be a shim behind the primary sheave also...
I have a ride this weekend leaving Friday, so getting a new sheave is going to be hard. What makes me think something is missing or not right is that it did this before I replaced the sheave that was in it with hw one. The previous owner stated that he had a Trinity sheave installed. But I don't trust much of what the owner says due to the stuff I found rigged up on this atv.
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check for a shim. I bet there is one behind the primary sheave
Call James...304-673-2602...dunno where you are located; but , his shipping is SUPER fast (and I am sure he will next day it if you wanna spend the extra dough). I have put in 5 of his sheaves...on 660's and 700's...never had any issues what so ever with the belts on any of them!!
I'm thinking there is a shim in the primary as well. I will check it out when I get home. Also that's for the number after I check out the primary I may have to use that. Just hate to throw away the money spent on the other sheave as I have less then one mile on it. But who knows. And if anyone thinks of anything else for me to check please let me know.
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send pics to my e-mail tonight and we will get it fixed for you:banana:
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This is why I won't sell or endorse the shim mod...
Yes it works for some people...and yes it gives you lower gearing from a stop...but IMO it's unreliable, inconsistent, and in some cases has lead to extensive cvt and even motor casing damage...not worth it IMO...
Use it at your own risk... If it were me I would get the new parts you need from James and not use the shim anymore...
Others may disagree...
Yes it works for some people...and yes it gives you lower gearing from a stop...but IMO it's unreliable, inconsistent, and in some cases has lead to extensive cvt and even motor casing damage...not worth it IMO...
Use it at your own risk... If it were me I would get the new parts you need from James and not use the shim anymore...
Others may disagree...
I agree 100%. I hope that there is a shim in it and I plan to remove it. I would of done this from the start but I didn't notice it or thought it was supposed to be in there. If I understand this correct there shouldn't be a shim at all. If there happen s to be one remove it? I'm new to the rhino and this clutch is a little different then the one on my brute force. Or atleast That's how I see it.
Again thanks a lot guys!
Again thanks a lot guys!
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You don't have to take it out...
I try not to tell people what to do with the machines as much as possible especially with regard to a competitors products...
You belt would not likely rub the cover if it did not have a shim...
The shim combined with sheave tracks machined at the bottom (closest to the center) to allow the rollers to sit lower so the cam plate rests on the hub/seal will give you lowest gearing w/o a shim...adding a shim will make the belt come out of the secondary too far at a stop and it rubs the cover...
The other problem with the shim is it makes the tooth engagement of the cam plate on the splines of the shaft very marginal...
The cam plate teeth do wear and get rounded...the closer to the beveled end of the shaft the more marginal the engagement...
If I were using it primarily for sand drags or just any drag racing other than mud bogs I would use the shim...but I would also run with no outer cover and make certain there was no rubbing...
I would also make sure the cam plate was like new at all times...
Those are the kinds of things that are worth doing for competition and take more time, money, effort but may be worth it to win by a nose in a race...
Not worth it... IMO .... for general purpose riding...
Something everyone has to decide for themselves...
The machined sheaves w/o a shim mod have no down side and IMO one of the best things you can do to a rhino... simple as that...
Hope that helps you because you will get lots of people on both sides of this argument...the shim mod and machined sheaves have been around longer than rhinos...this debate about the shim is nothing new...neither are the problems people have...
I try not to tell people what to do with the machines as much as possible especially with regard to a competitors products...
You belt would not likely rub the cover if it did not have a shim...
The shim combined with sheave tracks machined at the bottom (closest to the center) to allow the rollers to sit lower so the cam plate rests on the hub/seal will give you lowest gearing w/o a shim...adding a shim will make the belt come out of the secondary too far at a stop and it rubs the cover...
The other problem with the shim is it makes the tooth engagement of the cam plate on the splines of the shaft very marginal...
The cam plate teeth do wear and get rounded...the closer to the beveled end of the shaft the more marginal the engagement...
If I were using it primarily for sand drags or just any drag racing other than mud bogs I would use the shim...but I would also run with no outer cover and make certain there was no rubbing...
I would also make sure the cam plate was like new at all times...
Those are the kinds of things that are worth doing for competition and take more time, money, effort but may be worth it to win by a nose in a race...
Not worth it... IMO .... for general purpose riding...
Something everyone has to decide for themselves...
The machined sheaves w/o a shim mod have no down side and IMO one of the best things you can do to a rhino... simple as that...
Hope that helps you because you will get lots of people on both sides of this argument...the shim mod and machined sheaves have been around longer than rhinos...this debate about the shim is nothing new...neither are the problems people have...
That helps out a lot. I bought the sheave thinking there wasn't a shim installed. But it has to he if its riding at the top of the front sheave. As soon as I can get home I will be looking to see. I hope it is as easy as just removing it.
The more I think about it the previous owner stated that he did clutch mod. He gave me factory sheave to install if I didn't like it. But never mentioned the shim. The cover that I replaced had a perfect hole on the top and bottom to allow the belt to clear the housing.
Thanks guys I'm very optimistic that this will be an easy fix.
The more I think about it the previous owner stated that he did clutch mod. He gave me factory sheave to install if I didn't like it. But never mentioned the shim. The cover that I replaced had a perfect hole on the top and bottom to allow the belt to clear the housing.
Thanks guys I'm very optimistic that this will be an easy fix.
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Don't throw the baby out...just the bath water... 
It's probably not the sheave... I could be wrong... If you had a Hot Rod Sheave I would be sure...not 100% positive what HW does to theirs or which version you have because they all evolve over time...
All the sheaves that are machined for more low end w/o a shim will have the belt ride up higher than stock in the secondary...
A good one will make the belt come out...but not out far enough to rub on the cover...
Then adding a shim will make it come out even farther...at that time it will rub...
If you use the shim with the stock sheave it will be similar to a sheave machined for low end...but not as mechanically sound because you still have the marginal tooth engagement...and the shim robs the top speed some too but most people using it don't care about that...
So you really have to take the primary off and if the washer under the nut will not stay on the splines of the shaft without the nut holding it on it probably has the shim...you will see it when you pull the primary and collar bearing off...
If there is room on the shaft for the washer to sit on the splines without falling off it probably doesn't have a shim...
It's not hard to find out...you should not need to use your stock sheave...assuming your machined sheave is in good condition...
If it's not...and your stock sheave is...you can check with James about getting your stock sheave machined for use with grease less OD slider weights...that would be your Hot Rod Sheave...
It's probably not the sheave... I could be wrong... If you had a Hot Rod Sheave I would be sure...not 100% positive what HW does to theirs or which version you have because they all evolve over time...
All the sheaves that are machined for more low end w/o a shim will have the belt ride up higher than stock in the secondary...
A good one will make the belt come out...but not out far enough to rub on the cover...
Then adding a shim will make it come out even farther...at that time it will rub...
If you use the shim with the stock sheave it will be similar to a sheave machined for low end...but not as mechanically sound because you still have the marginal tooth engagement...and the shim robs the top speed some too but most people using it don't care about that...
So you really have to take the primary off and if the washer under the nut will not stay on the splines of the shaft without the nut holding it on it probably has the shim...you will see it when you pull the primary and collar bearing off...
If there is room on the shaft for the washer to sit on the splines without falling off it probably doesn't have a shim...
It's not hard to find out...you should not need to use your stock sheave...assuming your machined sheave is in good condition...
If it's not...and your stock sheave is...you can check with James about getting your stock sheave machined for use with grease less OD slider weights...that would be your Hot Rod Sheave...
Well the sheave I ordered was made to run with greaseless od sliders. Which I ordered when i ordered the sheeve. But I emailed them last night to see what they thought. And said it was too much information to cover over an email to give them a call. Which I understand but doesnt do me good to call if im not looking at it. Then I was reading on the forum that I may have to install the metal oem clips that go with sliders. Well on that email he wasnt sure what type of sheeve and all that i bought. I would think that he would have said I need to use the oem clips if it needed them when i installed it. So ill just look in there at that too and see if maybe that is contributing to it.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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Okay now I am confused...probably my fault...
Did you buy a Hot Rod Sheave from either me or James...
How many sheaves do you have...
Are you sure you have OD slider weights and not round rollers...
I apologize in advance if I made any incorrect assumptions...
With regard to the cam plate sliders...if they fit securely into the cam plate slots w/o the metal bands and there is no room for the metal bands off the factory cam plate sliders then you don't need them..
If there is a slot wide enough to accept the metal band then you do need them...
The grease less cam plate sliders for the 660 come both ways...
The ones for the 700 never use the metal bands...
Did you buy a Hot Rod Sheave from either me or James...
How many sheaves do you have...
Are you sure you have OD slider weights and not round rollers...
I apologize in advance if I made any incorrect assumptions...
With regard to the cam plate sliders...if they fit securely into the cam plate slots w/o the metal bands and there is no room for the metal bands off the factory cam plate sliders then you don't need them..
If there is a slot wide enough to accept the metal band then you do need them...
The grease less cam plate sliders for the 660 come both ways...
The ones for the 700 never use the metal bands...
I'm sorry if I have confused you. I ordered my sheave from hunterworks. I have the new one I ordered from hunterworks, a stock one, and one that I was told is a Trinity racing one. Not really sure on the stock and Trinity due to I don't trust much information I received from the previous owner.
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gotcha...
He probably told you the truth... when you take the sheave that is in it now degrease the inside (if needed) and see how it was machined compared to the new one you are getting from HW...
My confusion was with the OD slider weights... I don't think HW machines their sheaves for OD slider weights... as far as I know James is the only one who does that... I sell the sheaves from James known as hot rod sheaves so that should make it clear to you and now I understand you completely too...
Bottom line is your new machined sheave for low end will have the belt ride above the top of the secondary but w/o a shim installed on the primary it should not rub the cover...
He probably told you the truth... when you take the sheave that is in it now degrease the inside (if needed) and see how it was machined compared to the new one you are getting from HW...
My confusion was with the OD slider weights... I don't think HW machines their sheaves for OD slider weights... as far as I know James is the only one who does that... I sell the sheaves from James known as hot rod sheaves so that should make it clear to you and now I understand you completely too...
Bottom line is your new machined sheave for low end will have the belt ride above the top of the secondary but w/o a shim installed on the primary it should not rub the cover...
Hmm. Well they sold me a kit with sheave, rollers, and sliders. Too bad there is not a place that you just unbolt and send your primary and secondary like I did with my brute force
You tell them what size tires and how you ride and they build it for you and send it back. I called that guy when I first got the rhino and he said he does not mess with rhinos. So that went out the window.
You tell them what size tires and how you ride and they build it for you and send it back. I called that guy when I first got the rhino and he said he does not mess with rhinos. So that went out the window.
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people send them to me to mill
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