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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used waltinbatonrouge's replacement shoes instead of buying the clutch assembly?

Thanks
 

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Yep....works great!...95 bucks....my drum was really worn also...wats yours look like?...that was 200...i did the 1 way just to be sure...50...seal and gasket..20...if you do the clutch drum?..you will need the needle bearing...it dont come out of oul one...and the nut that hold wet clutch on like 10...real easy....i put 1mm shim in while i was in there and a purple secondary....shim 10 and spring 30...good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
has anyone tried to resurface the drum? i have access to a machine shop and was wondering if anyone else has tried it.
 

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If i could have?....I think I would have....mine was wore kind of un evenly....eather outside or inside was worn in a little deaper..then the groves and tapered to looks ok...i just did not want new clutch blocks on a meesed up drum....if i could have michined it for free?...i might have...would saveed the 200 plus the needle bearing in there you cant get out...but i also was brainstorming..."If you turn the inside of the drum?...the distance from the clutch face to drum will be greater...and will take higher RPM before making contact...how much?...I guy probley could not tell the differance?...but something to think about?"...plus with a bad wet clutch I had to rev the motor to get it to move...so i wanted my rhino to "go" just off idle...mine has the 1mm shim and the 686 kit...it has power...I did not think i needed any "stall" spring or "rpm" to get moving...so take it all apart and tell us what the clutch looks like...we want to hear it!...go luck ..Ralph
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i thought about that too... i will take pics of the surgery and post. us 660 owners are all going through the same phase of the life cycle... lol
 

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i got the same clutch blocks,great deal,i just have to get it all back together now,im stoked!!
 

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It's a giant bearing...and fine...and pressed in...i just sprayed stuff in the bearing while spinning too clean it out real good....you can "Feel" when its clean...it spins real nice...clean the gasket off the cover real good..and the engine...new dry gasket...new nut to hold wet C on with lock tite and impact gun...and dent the lock ring on the nut...new 1 way...new seal....lock tite the outer nut and dent lock ring...lock tite secondary nut and impact on...drain oil before you start..fill with 2 qrts yamalube when done and filter...the wet cluth cover has like 8 bolts...2 are longer...they go where the 2 alingment pins are for the cover...I put wd 40 on the threads on all the little bolts that hold the inner plastic cover and outer clutch cover and sprayed the holes....all mine where hard to remove and "dry " and powdery from the alloy meets steel...clean and regrease primary...and clean surface on it and secondary...and wash hands before moving forward
 

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link dosent work,theres only 2 bearings in the clutch housing assembly,one is a idler bearing and the big one is the one way bearing.if it free wheeles going down hills and you have to hit the brakes to slow down,then i would replace the one way bearing,give w.v.hot rod rhino a call!!! he has good prices on oem parts.
 

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there is 3 total in the whole primary assy....1 way....small needle bearing...and the giant on in the cover....i just replaced the 1 way because i'm in there....rest ashure
 

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the one way bearing is not pressed in,it has a mark on it that says outside,u put that side towards the sheave when installing it,it should turn freely one way,and catch when u try to turn it the opposite direction.
 

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sorry just read your post,there are 3.but the one way gives the most trouble.
 

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and thats why i got a new one..even though it tested good...it could go out a week later...the link works
 

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If in doubt, replace for sure,dont want trouble out on the trail!!!!
 

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and thats why i got a new one..even though it tested good...it could go out a week later...the link works
THE LINK WORKS,I GUESS MY LAPTOP HAD A GLITCH,I COULD NOT GET IT TO COME UP EARLIER,SORRY,MY BAD.UR RIGHT ON MAN!!!!:banana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I started pulling mine apart last night and got hung up trying to get the secondary sheave off. I have some one coming over to help me hold the engine over while I pull it out tonight.

From the looks of it, I remove all the bolts to pull the back side of the black cvt cover? Any tips on getting the back side of the primary sheave?
 

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you removed the seat bracing right?....then you are only a few mm from having enuff room...i have a 3 foot crowbar...you fit it near the motor mount ...it fits in there somewhere real nice...and pry motor over with left hand and holding secondary with right hand and it pops right....i read on hear somewhere thats what you do...and it worked great.....now all 4 of my motor mounts where wore out...that might have made it move more or easyer?...if in doubt?...crawl under and lossen the front motor mount bolts...should work fine.....change seconday spring if you need too...this is the time to do it...now with both clutches off...the back half of the plastic cover comes off...like the 4 behind secondary and the other 6-7?.....did you drain oil?....and hide the key?...now you see the shaft for primary on the right side and the alloy cover with like 7 bolts...two are longer...keep track...puts some paper towles under cover...give it a light tap with a mallot...and it pops loose...remove and some oil will spill out...in your hand is the clutch drum seal and inner needle bearing and the shaft goes threw the cover....pop seal out...behind that is a c-clip holding it in....back to motor you see the wet clutch...1 way and nut and shaft...remove that lock nut with impact and remove...what do your blocks/pads look like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pulled the clutch and all... the shoes are out of tolerance for the shop manual. How does the drum look to you all?

Drum-


Clutch-


 
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