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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Check after sitting a few hours and reads in safety zone on dipstick. I ran it for about a min or less and waited for 12 min and nothing on dipstick. Why. Am I not getting oil hot enough to drain down.
 

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your low on oil.

after hours of sitting all the oil from the motor drains to the pan where the dip stick is. if you start it up and let idle for about 3-5 min shut it off then check it, it should read full.


if not your low on oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check after sitting a few hours and reads in safety zone on dipstick. I ran it for about a min or less and waited for 12 min and nothing on dipstick. Why. Am I not getting oil hot enough to drain down.
"after sitting a few hours..." are you wiping the dipstick before you stick it back in?
Yes but if I only idle for about a min do you think it could be the oil didn't warm up (get thinner) therefore takes longer to drain back down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
your low on oil.

after hours of sitting all the oil from the motor drains to the pan where the dip stick is. if you start it up and let idle for about 3-5 min shut it off then check it, it should read full.


if not your low on oil
Think the diff is you said to idle 3 - 5 min. I only ran less than a min. So maybe oil didn't reach operating temp and therefore thicker and takes time to drain back down.
 

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your low on oil.

after hours of sitting all the oil from the motor drains to the pan where the dip stick is. if you start it up and let idle for about 3-5 min shut it off then check it, it should read full.


if not your low on oil
Think the diff is you said to idle 3 - 5 min. I only ran less than a min. So maybe oil didn't reach operating temp and therefore thicker and takes time to drain back down.
give it a shot
 

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That is probably it...if you run up to full operating temperature and let sit for 12 minutes the difference between that and stone cold should be almost zero...

What oil is in it...

Always make sure it is to the top mark on the stick before every ride...no exceptions...

The thing only holds two quarts... a lot of that is held in the oil lines/cooler/filter...

The parts that need oil the most get the least and rely on splash from the sump in the crank case...that would be the piston/rod/wrist pin...the oiling to the factory parts is piss-poor under ideal conditions...it is the weak link...and failure usually leaves you with a pile of scrap metal not worth re-building...

That is why I like the 5w-40 synthetic... it does not have to warm up to flow... and can stand more heat...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is probably it...if you run up to full operating temperature and let sit for 12 minutes the difference between that and stone cold should be almost zero...

What oil is in it...

Always make sure it is to the top mark on the stick before every ride...no exceptions...

The thing only holds two quarts... a lot of that is held in the oil lines/cooler/filter...

The parts that need oil the most get the least and rely on splash from the sump in the crank case...that would be the piston/rod/wrist pin...the oiling to the factory parts is piss-poor under ideal conditions...it is the weak link...and failure usually leaves you with a pile of scrap metal not worth re-building...

That is why I like the 5w-40 synthetic... it does not have to warm up to flow... and can stand more heat...
I am using the Yamaha 10 - 40
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like everyone is saying if you check with engine cold and not up to TOP or FULL mark on dipstick I should add oil?
My only concern with that is I don't want to get it over full and blow gaskets.
Shouldn't it be safe anywhere in the marked range on dipstick??
 
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