Okay Bobbleheads, time to share some wisdom. If you show any enthusiasm in something you enjoy, it is gonna cost you a butt-load of money. Most of us make some money, but we don't have money. Used to read a lot of magazines and the sections I got the most out of were users tips and tricks. So with that in mind, if you did something that works and you saved some money, let us know. If you made a post previously and it would fit here, give a good one line description and link us to it.
Didn't take long to figure out the washer/grommet for the windshield broke wore out. Went to local hardware store and purchased neoprene faucet washers for under two bucks. Thicker and last longer than original, and you get four to six spares.
The door bungee on mine broke three days after I got my ride. Got a replacement and another one broke two weeks later.
Dug up an old inner tube, used the original to cut a template, and cut four out to replace the original bungee. No one notices unless they look real hard. Tip, shorten the distance between the original holes by a quarter inch.
I ride mostly wood/forest trails and needed some radiator protection from sticks and limbs. Couldn't afford one due to purchase of top and windshield, so fabricated my own from sheet aluminum. Looked around internet for some simple ideas. Made a few calls to local road department, metal fabricator, and metal recycler to find aluminum. Made a template from cardboard and with drill, jig saw, file, sandpaper, and paint, got radiator protection.
Tip: When I got done, this looked like every purchased protector on the market. What I should have done was to stencil cut a design in it for a true custom look. Doh!
grew a money tree and wammo, bought what i needed... lol
Electrical PVC junction boxes from lowes works great for all you electrical fuses, relays, etc and it is water proof... get a can of satin black paint it and there you have it; a perfect sized, light box, all for around 25 bucks....
Great idea! Something like that could be mounted just about anywhere and could be used to carry registration, permits, small first aid kits, basically anything small you want to keep dry. Thanx!
John,
Where did you get your shock tower crossmember? I was looking at this the other day and thinking that a little reinforcement on those tabs would be a good idea.
my fav on here was a new windshield washer tank and pump, setup for mixed drinks. cool as hell. put it under the seat and ran a tube to the dash for refills. :banana:
You can add some budget hp by pulling the stock headers off and grinding down the weld on the inside of the header. Worked really good for me and no cracking, also have the tip and spark arrester out.
For those long stretches of non-use, now its hard to get your Rhino started. Add a Primer Bulb, (like on an outboard boat motor). Accouple squeezes & it starts right up without the choke...
Good tip - my Yamaha Exciter 270 jet boat is exactly the same. Without the primer bulb, you can crank away for minutes before the gas gets from the tank alllll the way to the 6 carbs!
Really good thread. I made a half windshield with a piece of plexi-glass and a couple u-bolts from home depot. Total cost was like 25 bucks for everything. Then you can use a jig saw and cut the bottom of the plexi-glass to fit the top of the hood better. I also put some foam around the bottom to better seal next to the hood. The whole thing really makes a difference on those cold rides.
I'm thinking about doing the same thing, except using a sheet of lexan. Do you trailer yours at highway speeds with the windshield? I'm looking at doing a full windshield but hinging it in the middle to allow it to be opened or the top half removed in the summer. Don't really want to have to take it off and put it back on after hauling on a trailer on the highway.
I was told to use Lexan rather than plexiglass as Lexan doesn't scratch as easily and doesn't shatter like plexiglass.
Some good tips there from Mud-and-Guts... Now I gotta go out to my Rhino and make sure I got that covered... I hate it when someone makes me go to work, guess that is why I call everyone boss.
On the 660 you can grind off the excess threads that stick out past the secondary sheave before you take the nut off. This makes removing the secondary sheave super easy to remove for future spring changes.
I did this and it was the best mod that I have done so far. I put koplin overfenders on my rhino and it was a real pain to try to bear hug the hood to get it open. After this mod, I can open it from one side and its so ez.:banana:
I put the Primer Bulb in the line before the fuel pump. Looped it over top & have it sitting right above the pump assembly. Easy place to get to it without moving anything & an easy grab right from the driver seat.
As far as an earlier post about limping your rhino back? I wouldn't see why not, as long as its easily accessible.
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