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Discussion Starter #1
my rhino started to free wheel this weekend so from what ive gathered on here its the one way bearing going bad.
is this something i can do myself at home or are there any special tools required? ive done my own clutch kit so im familiar with all that, but havent been as far as the bearing.
also is there anything else in there that need should be replaced at this time? from looking at the parts i see there is one gasket that would probably have to be replaced but would that be it?
 

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my rhino started to free wheel this weekend so from what ive gathered on here its the one way bearing going bad.
is this something i can do myself at home or are there any special tools required? ive done my own clutch kit so im familiar with all that, but havent been as far as the bearing.
also is there anything else in there that need should be replaced at this time? from looking at the parts i see there is one gasket that would probably have to be replaced but would that be it?

Yes, that's it. When you install the one way bearing in the clutch bell, be sure you cannot see the writing ( this side out ), and you might want to change the oil at the same time.
 

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moto, looks like we are in the same chapter of the rhino life cycle, always with in weeks of each other. did you ever change this? my rhino stopped engine breaking and making a weird noise this weekend.
 

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my rhino started to free wheel this weekend so from what ive gathered on here its the one way bearing going bad.
is this something i can do myself at home or are there any special tools required? ive done my own clutch kit so im familiar with all that, but havent been as far as the bearing.
also is there anything else in there that need should be replaced at this time? from looking at the parts i see there is one gasket that would probably have to be replaced but would that be it?

Yes, that's it. When you install the one way bearing in the clutch bell, be sure you cannot see the writing ( this side out ), and you might want to change the oil at the same time.
Actually that's correct . If you can see the writing on the bearing in the clutch bell, it is installed backwards. The bearing should be installed on the shoulder of the wet clutch assy, in this position you should rea the words " out side ".
 

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Any special tools needed to change it... or any other parts like gaskets other than the one way bearing itself?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
moto, looks like we are in the same chapter of the rhino life cycle, always with in weeks of each other. did you ever change this? my rhino stopped engine breaking and making a weird noise this weekend.
you better hope your not following in my steps. ive not changed my bearing yet because i also seem to need a new wet clutch. so until i scrap up the $500 for that job the rhino is parked in the garage
 

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dude! dont scare me like that! mine is still running strong besides the free wheeling going down hill. what did yours do?
 

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any pictures anyware to refrence just trying to get ready to rip mine apart for a one way
 

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dude! dont scare me like that! mine is still running strong besides the free wheeling going down hill. what did yours do?
There is a seller on EBAY that sells the OEM Clutch shoe Blocks for $95 a set. they are not hard to install on the existing plate. It is also a good time to add Slugs (weights) to the shoes. The slugs will extend the life of the clutch shoes and make them grab better.
From my research a OEM one way bearing is the better choice. You will need a gasket for re-assembly. The "one way clutch bearing installs with the dot or writing facing out towards the left side of the rig and away from the center of the engine. The Belt installs with the arrows pointing towards the back of the Rhino.
A JBS sheave kit is also worth looking into.
An impact gun and a torque wrench will make the job easier.
 

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Before you buy the clutch pads you should know that if the ebay guy has the OEM pads he is the only one. The factory dealers and online OEM suppliers only sell the whole clutch from all that I can find. The ebay guy has pads that WILL FIT the OEM clutch but I doubt they are OEM. Before you make a decision to but those make sure of what shape your clutch drum is in and then watch the video that JBS did of what the non-OEM pads leave behind. Then ask yourself if it's worth saving a $150? Also Clutch-wise make sure you are using the JASO rated oil required.
 

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Before you buy the clutch pads you should know that if the ebay guy has the OEM pads he is the only one. The factory dealers and online OEM suppliers only sell the whole clutch from all that I can find. The ebay guy has pads that WILL FIT the OEM clutch but I doubt they are OEM. Before you make a decision to but those make sure of what shape your clutch drum is in and then watch the video that JBS did of what the non-OEM pads leave behind. Then ask yourself if it's worth saving a $150? Also Clutch-wise make sure you are using the JASO rated oil required.
I talked to the guy at JW power parts (the Ebay seller) he assured me that the shoe blocks he sells are OEM. not after market. I found him on the Forum and he has a very good reputation. He also has a web-site where you can buy them directly from him for $5 less.
I have an original and a JW one in my hand right now and they are identical down to the numbers stamped on them. If they are copies, they did a good job and JW power parts lied to me. Otherwise they are OEM.
feel free to contact them yourself: JW PowerParts. Baton Rouge, LA Voice: 225-753-9455.
So it came down to saving $150 for 15 minutes of work removing the old shoes and installing the replacements on the OEM plate.
 

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Unclebob-that's what I love about forums, appreciate the kickback, Ice storm killed my internet for a few days so sorry for delay in response. I have no issue for JW Powerparts. I looked at his site and to my eye and comparison there are some minor differences in the steel brackets but my big concern is the composition of the lining material. The lining is obviously going to wear and the residue that it produces and leaves in your engine concerns me. So just on risk for saving a $150 over several thousand miles, I do not think it worth it. It isn't about the extra maintenance either, I will save money on some aftermarket if there is no potential for long term risk. I buy the cheap brake pads and change them more frequently. All I was saying was it is strange that he claims to have OEM when even the dealers can't get it. You don't typically get premium material cheaper either. So that does not give me confidence that he has a premium lining that is inside my engine wearing away. If you watch this video link it helps establish my thinking on this matter and the extra caution that I was encouraging others in making their decision.
 

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you are contradicting yourself.
First you say that you have no problem with JW powersports and then you call them a bunch of Liars for stating that their shoes are OEM?
You cannot have it both ways. Either they are flay out lying or they are OEM. Which are you saying?
 

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Unclebob I am not going to get into a word match/debate. Obviously you have some strong feelings and as far as I know a friend of JW. I will retract the word 'problem' and substitute 'targeting' if you will be gracious enough to allow that. I am not targeting anyone - In the spirit of sharing knowledge on the forum I contributed that I could not find them anywhere else. You are free to infer whatever you want but I never accused anyone of being 'a bunch of liars'. It is so unique that 'I doubt it'. Just my opinion. If I did not feel that this material inside our engines was critical, I probably would have remained silent. I have no profit to make in this deal or personal alliances. Just a fact shared so that others could make an informed decision. And I recognize that I am not the end all of all facts so I listened to your fact of what the seller told you. And I will believe that you reported accurately-thanks.
 

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Unclebob I am not going to get into a word match/debate. Obviously you have some strong feelings and as far as I know a friend of JW. I will retract the word 'problem' and substitute 'targeting' if you will be gracious enough to allow that. I am not targeting anyone - In the spirit of sharing knowledge on the forum I contributed that I could not find them anywhere else. You are free to infer whatever you want but I never accused anyone of being 'a bunch of liars'. It is so unique that 'I doubt it'. Just my opinion. If I did not feel that this material inside our engines was critical, I probably would have remained silent. I have no profit to make in this deal or personal alliances. Just a fact shared so that others could make an informed decision. And I recognize that I am not the end all of all facts so I listened to your fact of what the seller told you. And I will believe that you reported accurately-thanks.
I appreciate what you said and the way you said it. I did not notice if you were being antagonistic.

Anyway, I've read of JW on, I think, one of the grizzly forums. He seemed to get a lot of praise, for the most part. I had no idea, nor do I now know for sure, where he sourced his pads.

Prior to this thread, I had assumed that JW's pads were OEM parts for rhino clones supplied from China, as they are not available from U.S. dealers as you mentioned. However, I suppose it is possible that in other countries, Yamaha (or their OEM suppliers) supply just the pads to the parts market and that JW tapped into that supply. Interesting question in any event.

As to the video you linked, is James saying, the clutch material he is digging out on the video is from an aftermarket clutch that burned or just from a wet clutch that got smoked? He does mention it being important to have "the right system in there" but I'm not sure if he's saying that it's an aftermarket one he's working on. Regardless, as you point out, unless one is sure, the safe bet is one that you know comes from yamaha. And definitely stay away from chino pads.
 

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rodneygt- I am NOT trying to be antagonistic in any degree.
In the video James did not say in my hearing that this was a knockoff clutch, (not trying to put words in his mouth,) just that this clutch had 'smoked' and showing what happens when it does- my only point is that it established my pattern of thinking and as to how important this element is since it is inside the engine. What James told me personally, is that he does not recommend anything other than the OEM clutch, and that is all he sells. I personally trust the Yamaha engineering and their R&D.
I appreciate what you are saying and it brings up a good point. Rhino clones are cheaper and why is that? Do they cut little corners in manufacturing? Pretty sure that the dealers are not reducing their profit?? Maybe the clones buy from the same manufacturer overseas and they are exactly the same. Or maybe not. (I guess saying that I do not have confidence they are, is nicer that saying , 'I doubt it". Sorry.) But I am not going to risk it.
You got the point about 'safe bet' and sorry if anybody else did not. I am currently spending thousands of dollars on my motor because of an internal problem that took a complete teardown. Should I save $86 and reuse the old oil pump with only 288 hours? Would I risk the internals for $150 extra on a clutch every four or five years? That was the point and I will work on my presentation. Thanks for your patience.
 

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No, I didn't think you were being antagonistic. I've read your posts before so I knew that wasn't the case. Moreover, I didn't see anything in the words you chose this time that would indicate otherwise.

Back to this rhino clone business and the subject at hand... To my understanding (and I could be mistaken), all rhino clones are yamaha 660 based (engine internals), even the chino 700s. On the other hand, the internals of the yamaha 660 and 700 differ in many respects. One is the wet clutch. Interestingly, I've not found anyone selling 700 clutch shoes/blocks.

However, if JW has indeed sourced Yamaha's oem clutch supplier, then his shoes are a good option. Frankly, yamaha should sell them that way.
 
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