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Tips for bleeding easily

I know this is a Rhino Forum, but I suddenly had the same issue with my Massimo UTV, so I found your thread before ordering a replacement Master Cylinder. I’m a retired auto tech and have used this process many times over the years with great success and, though this is an old thread and perhaps someone has already offered this solution, I thought I’d share with those who may have the experience today.

Using a 2’ section of small vacuum hose, a small Mason type jar with lid and some quality & fresh Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid, punch a hole in the lid of the jar just large enough to slip the vacuum hose into with a small 2nd hole for venting, if the hose hole is too tight to allow venting. Push the vacuum hose through the hole to the bottom of the jar and add enough fresh brake fluid into the jar to allow at least an inch of fluid depth above the end of the hose in the bottom of the jar. This will keep air from going back into the hose during the bleeding process! Keep the jar securely on the floor during the bleeding process to keep from making a mess on your floor.

Now, using an 8mm box wrench, if yours is the same size as my bleeder, move the bleeder cap out of the way to place the wrench over the bleeder and then slip the other end of the vacuum hose over the bleeder nipple to create a path into the jar, careful to make sure the hose is tight on the end to keep fluid from spraying everywhere when the brake pedal is pressed! I usually start with the rear brakes, which are accessible underneath, where the fronts may require you to remove the wheels to access the bleeders.

Now, with your Assistant ready to press & release the brake pedal (plus keep the fluid reservoir nearly filled), keep the bleeder closed while they press the pedal, open the bleed 1/4 turn and watch the air exit the hose in the jar. Make sure your Assistant doesn’t let up on the pedal until you’ve closed the bleeder! Keep in mind on the 1st one you bleed, you’ll be pushing the air out of the vacuum hose too, so the 1st one will take time to clear before you’re actually bleeding the cylinder and you’ll start seeing darker fluid coming out of the hose end in the jar. Keep repeating the process until you only see fluid coming out of the hose in the jar, moving on to the next wheel. As you continue, your Assistant should notice the pedal getting gradually harder to push, indicating air is being removed from the system. Whatever you do, don’t let the fluid reservoir get low because, if you do, you’ll have to start over and it will take even longer once air is pulled into the Master Cylinder!

Lastly, properly dispose of the old brake fluid and make sure any new fluid is well sealed, as it attracts moisture. I have photos of the process, but I’m not seeing a means to add pix to the Posts. Good luck, my brakes are again working perfectly!
 
Same problems on an 07 rhino 660 guys. Replaced all three calipers and pads.Bled like normal pumping and holding opening valve closing valve many many times starting from the furthest working towards the closest caliper to the master cylinder still having inadequate brakes. Rebuilt the master cylinder and bled at least 20 cylcles. I still had a spongy pedal and had to pump to get about 50 % stopping power. I then took the line from the master to the rear off and plugged the port front brakes worked properly. I then took the rear caliper off and put a wrench in between the pads to substitute for the rotor. I rolled the caliper until the bleeder valve was at the top most point. I then buddy bled the rear and with in three cycles I had gotten several good spurts of air. Put the caliper back on minus the wrench in between the pads and immediatly had normal pedal and stopping power.
 
Has any had a split in the plastic resivor on the master cylinder and is there anyway to fix it
Welcome to the site, not sure if it's fixable give intro2rhinos a text 714 936-9418 he parts out rhinos and is a good guy to work with.
 
What Partsbob said above makes things easier and less messy. It's step above just cracking the bleeders and letting the fluid squirt out. And the rest of the "how to" is spot on. (SOP for anybody bleeding brakes at home).
Now, lets see if I can help take the frustration out of brakes that just seem to not want to bleed.
When you changed pads, or had your caliper off. You may have run the caliper piston back in too far. A pump of the brake pedal doesn't move a caliper piston very far. In order to bleed the brakes, the caliper pistons HAVE to stop. They have to push the pads solid stop on the rotors. Many times when a caliper is re-installed, a pump of the brake pedal won't move the caliper piston enough to tighten it up on the rotor. This will make bleeding darn near impossible.
A good way to cheat this is to slide a shim in between the pad and the rotor to get bleeding started. Putty knife or two, or something similar will work.
Air in the system rises. If you're having trouble getting a good hard stream/squirt (at the rear usually). Open both rear bleeders and stand the machine on it's nose for an hour or so. Pick the back up with a tractor, or park it nose down on a steep hill. A tall jack. Wheel stands. Just stand it on it's nose and bleed the rears.
Do not the let the fluid get low in the master cylinder.
Just a couple of tricks that will help make the impossible....possible
 
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