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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need a little help - Just got a chance today to install the BRP Tach. The rpm's jump from 500 to 2500 at idle and as you rev the rom's jump nearly 2k rpm back and forth. I have a hunterworks tri-fire cdi - could this be my issue? I did not have time to put the factory one in to try it.... I connected the tach as follows - red wire to switched ignition - black wire to chassis ground - green wire to orange wire in middle plug of cdi. Any thoughts ???
 

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Need a little help - Just got a chance today to install the BRP Tach. The rpm's jump from 500 to 2500 at idle and as you rev the rom's jump nearly 2k rpm back and forth. I have a hunterworks tri-fire cdi - could this be my issue? I did not have time to put the factory one in to try it.... I connected the tach as follows - red wire to switched ignition - black wire to chassis ground - green wire to orange wire in middle plug of cdi. Any thoughts ???

You CANNOT use a tach with that cdi...

If you have your stock cdi and want to use that tach the cheapest way to do it is get an MSD 4240 to work with your stock CDI...

It will run your tach...

MSD 4240 CDI for Rhino 660 online at RuttingRhino.com


Only $105 shipped

In stock...very fast shipping...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tach

Thanks for the info.... so the only cdi that the BRP tach can be used with is the stock cdi?
 

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The only CDI that WON'T work is the HW...

It fires three times per ignition stroke...

The tach is counting the ignition fires...

And I KNOW what you are thinking and the answer is NO...it won't work... :biggrin:

How do I know...because I had a vapor tach that can be manipulated by programming for different cycles and fire rates and IT couldn't be made to work...

Believe me...I wanted to use a tach with that CDI real bad...

If you don't have a stock CDI don't get the MSD 4240 ...

If you DO have a stock CDI the MSD 4240 is the bang for the buck...it will do the job...

Your only other good option without getting a programmable CDI is a Dynatek...

Don't believe anyone who tells you it will make more power ...and a stock motor cannot hit the MSD 4240 8,000 rpm rev limiter in high even with external mods like intake, carb, exhaust...so the 9,000 rpm rev limiter of the Dynatek is completely useless unless you have a built motor...and even then it's not worth much in terms of top speed since you have to one helluva motor to pull more than 8400 rpms in high... and the Dynatek doesn't start as well as the stock cdi...

The Dynatek is a good CDI however...not saying it's not...

Can't say anything good about the pro-comm so I am not saying anything at all... :13:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CDI

Well....I remembered having another CDI laying around so I found it today. It was another one that I bought from Hunterworks. It is not a Tri-Fire CDI. The paperwork that was in the box says it raises the rpm to 9,000 and advances the timing 4 degrees. This is the CDI that HW sold before their Tri-Fire version. So, I popped it in the rhino and the tach still jumps at idle, but is perfectly smooth when you rev on it. Only at idle does the needle jump up and down. As you raise the rpm's it is perfectly smooth in it's movement. I then put the stock CDI in and the tach needle is perfectly smooth at idle and at all rpm's. So....I guess if removing the reverse rev limiter is important to me, my only choice to have a perfect functioning tach and no reverse limiter is the Dynatek ?
 

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I popped it in the rhino and the tach still jumps at idle, but is perfectly smooth when you rev on it. Only at idle does the needle jump up and down. As you raise the rpm's it is perfectly smooth in it's movement. I then put the stock CDI in and the tach needle is perfectly smooth at idle and at all rpm's.
That is exactly what I have been saying for a long time...the stock cdi is the best quality, best functioning, best starting, most reliable cdi...and the MSD just raises the rev limiter it does not change the functionality...

As for reverse...the stock cdi with msd only will pull hard when floored to 20mph where it hits the rev limiter...closer to 30 mph with a sheave...

Not to be confused with the procomm which cuts out as soon as you floor it in reverse and won't pull hard at all...

You can also put the reverse rev limiter on a switch which is basically what the low speed switch on the HW is...only backwards...that switch puts the reverse rev limiter in play in forward...you can permanently ground the reverse rev limiter which makes is the same as forward for whatever cdi you have...or you can put it on a switch like I said such that it is only defeated when you flip the switch...

The cdi you put in it with 9,000 rpm rev limiter is the Dynatek cdi...

You already have it...your tach works...no need to buy another one as long as you are happy with it...the smooth tach at idle is not worth another purchase imo when you already have to good cdi to operate the vehicle with...however, if you do care that much about the tach at idle you know how to get everything you want at once...

The starting problems I had with higher compression motor with Dynatek is why I initially switched to HW tri-fire...then went to MSD to get the tach and the starting at the same time...now I sell the MSD because I like it...

I switched to the Dynatek after tossing two procomm units in the trash...

If I was running more than 11:1 compression OR needed more than 8,000 rpm rev limit I would get the programmable MSD...just for the record I don't sell the programmable MSD either...

For most people with a stock CDI the MSD 4240 is not only the lowest cost but IMO the best option...there are exceptions...the Dynatek and HW both have their strong points...
 
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