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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what are the best engine mods to increase hp. I have an 06 660 with the 686 big bore, a hot cams mud buster cam, lexx exaust with mid pipe and I'm installing a complete set of kibbble white valves and springs this week. I have the dynatek cdi and the carb has been re-jetted. Before I dropped a valve it seemed like I had great low end, but the top end was lacking.... the spedo does not work but the rpm would get up to about 6000. Has anyone else ran the KW valves?
I am not sure about the clutching on this quad as it is a 3 time hand me down, so to speak. it was built, sold, sold, sold, and then sold to me....
I have completely been thru the engine, new sleeve, je 10-1 piston, rings, rings and gaskets. Wondering what else I could do short of turbocharging, lol. Any ideals would be welcome. Thanks 06-686
 

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If you plan on doing valves make sure you do the plus 1s. More flow is better. You can get a better carb like a fcr,hsr but I have heard the dry clutches have a huge diff. In performance. Also you can mess with your weights depending on what rpm range and riding you do
 

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If you plan on doing valves make sure you do the plus 1s. More flow is better. You can get a better carb like a fcr,hsr but I have heard the dry clutches have a huge diff. In performance. Also you can mess with your weights depending on what rpm range and riding you do
well I already got the stock size on way. Didn't want to go larger cause I'm gonna try and get the cometic copper head gasket from trinity. I'm already a little worried about piston to valve clearence as it is. I've flat bed sanded the head (maybe .005 to .010") and cometic metal gasket is .039 copper is .027". I'm not sure if I will have the clearance for a +1 or +2 valve.

I'm really not sure if the clutch has been messed with or not. Like I said it is a 3 time hand me down. Maybe it has, dunno.. tried checking, but could not get the darn cover off. :aargh4:
 

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Im sure he someone spent the money on that other stuff it has at least a machined sheave. Why couldn't you get the cover off ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
was trying to get the cover off with engine in utv, tried to wiggle it around but could not get it out.
 

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Do you have a stock rhino set up or have your seats been dropped ? You should be able to get the cover off unless someone didn't plan out servicin the cvt in buildin it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, i got the cover off, I took the basket off and the 6-8 little nuts off the cover, not taken the sheave off yet, it does not look modified, but hell there's a few hours on this thing since it would have been. how can you tell if it has been changed?
 

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Beter cam will give more power. That cam does nothing for top end. I really liked the duner cam from Benchmark. It's a good mid and top end custom grind web cam.
 

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Once you clean the sheave out you will be able to see if it has been machined or not. If you have a scale throw the weights on and see what they weigh.

Cam will help out as well...hey Court what is needed to run that cam ? I know some of his cams need shorter valve stems and other mods or will that cam work with a norm head with better springs ?
 

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Dont the stock sheaves use screws on the cover? I know my KMS cover has nuts holding the it on.
 

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Once you clean the sheave out you will be able to see if it has been machined or not. If you have a scale throw the weights on and see what they weigh.

Cam will help out as well...hey Court what is needed to run that cam ? I know some of his cams need shorter valve stems and other mods or will that cam work with a norm head with better springs ?
This cam will work with stock guides. It does need a valve spring kit and Honda stem seal which are shorter than the Yamaha seals.
I agree with Court. The Mudbuster if anything is limiting the top-end power.

To the OP, why did you "flat bed sand" the head? If you are worried about piston to valve clearance, why are you going with a thinner head gasket? By the way, Cometic MLS gaskets are usually either .027" or .030".
What about cylinder height? Has it been machined a bunch from installing a new sleeve?

You can tell if you have a modified sheave by looking at the belt wear marks on the face. If the primary clutch has wear marks all the way to the outer edge, you have a machined sheave. If the marks stop about 5/8" from the top, you have a stock sheave. A Grizzly sheave will be somewhere in between.
 

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Hey chris you busy tomorrow ? I would like to call and pick your brain alil if poss....I talked to Rog yesterday and he had a couple suggestion on what to try but I wanted to see if you had anymore insight
 

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Discussion Starter #16
""To the OP, why did you "flat bed sand" the head? If you are worried about piston to valve clearance, why are you going with a thinner head gasket? By the way, Cometic MLS gaskets are usually either .027" or .030".
What about cylinder height? Has it been machined a bunch from installing a new sleeve?

You can tell if you have a modified sheave by looking at the belt wear marks on the face. If the primary clutch has wear marks all the way to the outer edge, you have a machined sheave. If the marks stop about 5/8" from the top, you have a stock sheave. A Grizzly sheave will be somewhere in between.""

the head was sanded due to warpage. i put a micrometer on the cometic gasket and it was .039. cylinder has not been sanded any. I did not see any wear marks on the sheave, I will look at the sheave more tonight after work. I wanted a thicker (copper) gasket but all I could find was the one trinity told me about (.027). I was wanting a .040 to .050 without waving to sit down and make my own. decided to run copper after the 2nd mls gasket blew.
 
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