Yamaha Rhino Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took the rhino out to try the new lift and tires...great time. I rode the machine hard. Lots of low diff lock, 3-4ft deep washed out ruts, it was nasty. On the way back down, good down hill trail but not too steep, I'm in low 2wd, good compression/engine braking, suddenly the machine seemed to feel in neutral, rolling forward for 3-5ft then quickly grabbing again and holding the machine back. I thought the trail maybe wasnt quite steep enough to prevent the cvt from letting go, or loosening up if you will. Also when I'm cruising round the neighborhood at 15-20mph in high, and come to a stop sign, the engine braking and me brakiing the machine slow it down until I get down to 2-4mph then it seems to let go of the engine braking and its all me on the pedal. Is this normal? It needs to be said that whether around the house or that intense ride yesterday, the belt has never felt to slip in any forward up hill situation, it just rips. I dont know if its normal for these machines to do a freespool of sorts if it senses the machine doesnt need the clutch/engine braking. If this is way out of the ball park of normal, I am planning on doing the orange secondary spring in the next month, other then obviously the belt, what clutch components should I be inspecting that could potentially be the problem. Thanks for reading this guys.

Thanks to all who reply!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,239 Posts
No...it should engine break all the way to a stop...that is the purpose of the wet clutch that is one feature that separates the rhinos from others...dry clutches will let loose at low speeds...

It is not likely your belt...more likely your one way bearing...

Is it possible you have high stall wet clutch springs...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update. So the ride today gave me more specific info on whats its doing. It seems to have this problem mostly in low. I was only able to get high to do it once today. The noise is coming from right behind the bucket seats, between the seats and the bed, almost straight down from there. When it lets go it makes a transfer case in a jeep, whirling/working, not quite grinding, howl/whine. Then it suddenly grabs and back to normal. When this happens I obviously brake, and that seems to make it grab a little sooner and less abruptly/jarring. I will google and read up myself but from you, what is a high stall wet clutch spring? And what is a one way bearing? This rhino is very solid and would like to get it 100%. I'm sure its been doing this for a while and the previous owner never took it serious. Thanks for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I read another thread where there was some talk about what oil/lube was being used in the engine. That certain types of oil dont lube the clutch properly. I just changed the oil with 10w-30 castrol gtx. I dont see the energy conserving logo anywhere. Could this be a problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
hey...how many miles?....the belt dont slip on a rhino...it is alway tight and ingaged....the cvt trans just changes your gear ratio...a differnt secondary spring will "hold" the rear sprocket "gear" longer and shift back to it sonner when you slow down.....sounds to me like the one way bearing is acting up?....its in front of wet clutch behind a cover where oil is....you need to remove belt cover,seconday-and primary clutch the plastic cover behind ..and the alloy wet clutch cover (almost square) and 1 way is behind that....50 bucks...wet clutch shoes are there...100 bucks on ebay ( rhino clutch blocks )...and change your seconday to what color you want while in there...mine is purple...works killer now...i have 1mm shim in primary....26" mud lits...686 kit...and black rhino msd...1 1/2 wheel space all around...works great...to replace one way you need a new gasket also like 10 bucks and new oil change...drain first before work that far
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
yes...and i just seen the castrol gtx...thats when mine wnt to **** as soon as i put gtx in it...mine did have the energy conseve logo though....not sure about the noise...and where you say its coming from?...to me it seems like whith the seats covers and engine cover the only place for the noise / sound of any kind is back there in front of bed...thats the only opening so all sorts of noise comes out of that area?....mine was so noisy when i got it...i insulated the engine cover...the plastic under shifter...under the seats...and have a rolled up old blanket in the space behind seats and in front of bed for the noise...much better now....but you discribing problem noise?..not sure of that sound?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
that oil like gtx dont ...not lube right....its just to slippery and not mad for the wet clutch...so it slips...it looks like a brake drum....with shoes inside like a old mini bike clutch...and springs on the clutch shoes like 5 of them....at idle the dont spin out and touch the inside of drum...like mini bike...you you bling rpm up from idle...the centifical force over comes the springs and the clutch blocks move out and make contact with the inside of the drum and that is the same shaft as the primary clutch and you start to go cuz the belt on the primary is tight and over to secondary clutch and is tight...they just change the gearing the faster they spin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
if you put sronger spings on the wet clutch?...it takes more RPM from idle to over come the strenth before letting the clutch shoes move "out" and touch the inside of the clutch drum....no one needs these or really uses them....exept some extream guys....not needed for the masses...did you look on back of the gtx?....small triangel logo..."energy conserve"....aka ...super slippery.....on mine it is so quite that from idel..in nutral....you can here thet the cvt clutches are not spinning...and if you bring the rpms up slowly...you can here this whinning sound when the wet clutch grabes and the primary and belt and secondary start spinning...its a whining sound but not loud?...you have to really listen for it...if that help?...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That lube could very well be the problem. What do you recommend for a proper lube? Yamalube? Napa had a special engine oil designed for the wet clutch. Anyone ever use this? If not Yamalube is there a alternative? I would certainly try a new lube before changing any mechanical components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Use Yamalube and don't try anything else or risk having another wet clutch problem. Yep, Yamalube costs a bit more, but you won't have problems with it, as its guaranteed to work with Yamaha vehicles. Why spend money on something else to find out you just destroyed something expensive LOL. But hey, that's my opinion and I'm not rich so I stick with what's recommended by the manufacturer for my equipment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,118 Posts
Use Yamalube and don't try anything else or risk having another wet clutch problem. Yep, Yamalube costs a bit more, but you won't have problems with it, as its guaranteed to work with Yamaha vehicles. Why spend money on something else to find out you just destroyed something expensive LOL. But hey, that's my opinion and I'm not rich so I stick with what's recommended by the manufacturer for my equipment.
I'm with Bill !... I am sure there are non oe oils out there that work just as well; and , cost less...same goes w/the filter. I buy the oil change kit for around 30 bucks, twice a year....to me that is cheap insurance knowing that the correct oil is in my ride.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top