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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anybody run a clamp on filter on the carb?
I have a 686 ported/ polished and camed and will not run with the lid on.. took the lid off and much better.. took the whole air box off and put a clamp on filter on and its a animal.. plug is burning perfect.. thought about taking the K&N off i have and jumking it for a little longer foam filter with a outerwears..

Or do i put the box back on and buy a clamp in filter for the box and run the lid off?

I live and ride in pa.. and mostly tight woods riding a little mud but no bogging! a couple local races..

Whats your input!
 

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http://www.rhinoforums.net/ruttingrhino-com/57691-got-air.html

Hi flow air intake is the ONLY way to fly...

I highly recommend tuning for max power and using the plug condition for feedback only just make sure everything is fine...

Max power equals max acceleration...

Max power is easily achieved by having a complete jet kit and starting rich working your way down until you achieve the lowest e/t in 0-300'...for a stock 660 that is in the ball park of 38-40 mph in a little over 8 seconds... for a very well built and tuned 686 it is more like 50 mph and closer to 6 seconds...and of course any combination of motor/mods can put you anywhere in between...

If you have an a/f gauge it's faster and easier and you find max power under max load (max acceleration) will be around13.5:1...

However, best results are confirmed with a stop watch or a chassis dyno...both do exactly the same thing...

Always verify that your times, gauge, and plug color all agree...

Simply tuning for an average condition of light brown is okay in that you know you are not burn down lean...or pig rich... but not ideal by any means...

"686s" vary in performance a lot due to porting, valves, cam, carb, carb tuning, exhaust, and of course intake...

Any motor set up to for high flow will not perform well at all with a restrictive intake...and that includes stock motors with high flow exhausts...

As you have observed...a restrictive intake seriously dampers power...

Our intakes make very good power even with bone stock motors with stock exhausts and we make them for the stock carb and for flat slide carbs as well...

Thanks for looking...

http://www.rhinoforums.net/ruttingrhino-com/57691-got-air.html


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
good points. i am not using any a/f gauges. just the old fashion way.. it has the stock exhaust on it still.. I think i am not going to change the exhaust.. I have not herd a 660 rhino exhaust that i like..

Hows that filter setup hold up to muddy trail rides? I am not into mud bogging just high speed trail rides, also the tight technical crawling around..

Just worried about the filter being out there in the open.. I have herd some people making splash guards to hold the mud and water down..


I think if i stay with the setup i gotta order a siphon break.. and I have never been a fan of k and n filters.. i have seen way to many problems. So i am going to find like a uni with a outerwear..
 

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The adapter with clamp on uni with the airbox lid removed will be pretty good...half way between what you have now and our best intake...

Porting the head and going with a big cam increases the flow requirements and will not run right with stock intake/exhaust...IMO...if you want to keep the stock exhaust you should keep the head stock and nothing bigger than a stage 2 cam...and even then you still want the best air intake for the application...so if you want foam that will have less performance...

If you are going to run ours in a lot of mud and water the dry-charger (outerwears) is recommended for sure...that will keep mud out of the pleats...

If you want a deflector don't get ours...stick with the air box...
 
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