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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang,
I posted a while back with an oil seal leak at the transmission where the rear yolk attaches for the rear driveshaft. I had a pretty good leak, I removed driveshaft, removed yolk, installed the new seal, reassembled and still had a leak. This weekend I decided to tear back into it and see if I could find the issue. Oil was dripping out between seal and yolk. I inspected everything, no burrs on the yolk, no issues with crankcase. Seal seemed to be ok, since I have it apart I'm going to replace the seal again.
My question is, Is there a special way to put the seal in?
Does it mount flush with case? Or does it go into the case slightly?
Are people using a brass punch to put it in or using the yolk to press it in?
I've read alot of posts and not really came up with an answer.
Help would be great please, I don't want to have to tear it apart again.
 

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I replaced my seal a while back, I had a large socket that I used to help seat it using a hammer. Make sure the yoke goes all the way in and tighten the hell out of the yoke bolt. maybe you got a bad seal?
 

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In my previous life as a mechanic, I would always pack the inside of the seal with wheel bearing grease - the reason for this to keep the re-enforcement spring from jumping out when you're pounding the seal into place. As stated above, using an appropriate size socket is the way to drive them in. Another tip is to smear a little of that wheel bearing grease on the seal lip and shaft - don't need a lot, just a light application.
 

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If using a socket get one that is snug fit in the houseing, that way when tapping it in all the pressure is on outer edge of seal where it should b for install


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So when installing the seal are you all stopping flush at the crankcase or going in farther? My front seal was in a bit from the edge of the case, so I put that in the same and no issue, the rear was flush with the case so I did it the same and had the same leak issue
 

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Usually there is a stop for seals which you seat it against. I don't remember these seals enough, but I would think you knock it in until it seats against the stop versus stopping when it is flush with the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the advice guys, just waiting for the wet clutch and slug kit to come and I'll be getting back together, hopefully with no leaks this time
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I am totally at a loss, still leaking!
I removed driveshaft, removed yoke, pulled the seal again, greased the sealing surface of the new seal, installed seal, tried a different yolk from a motor I know did not leak, greased seal surface on the yoke, assembled, put driveshaft in, filled it with oil, never started the motor, just let it sit to see if it would leak, sure enough, 30 min later there was oil dripping from between the yoke and the case. I am completely stumped here. There's no way I got 3 bad seals or 2 bad yolks
Is there a difference in seals from different years? Mine is an 04 660, and that is what I bought all 3 seals for. I'm just grasping at straws, but maybe it's a different year motor?
I have no idea
 

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Wow - what rotten luck. Seems like you did everything right. That said, the only thing I can think of at the moment.. well, a couple of things: Did you slide the new seal over the greased seal surface and find it to have a resistance when you rotate the seal around the seal surface? Yes? good. Next thing I would do is thoroughly clean the area where the oil is escaping then using a strong magnifying glass and sufficient lighting look for a minute crack in the case - OR can you actually see the oil leaking between the seal and the seal surface?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, good fit seal to yoke.
When I get back home this Thursday I'll look to see if there is any small cracks. I am also going to pull the driveshaft and see if the oil is seeping through by the splines, I've cleaned the splines and yoke and put a small amount of rtv on the splines before assembly but maybe oil is getting by there
 
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