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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting ready to snorkle my 700 and am just looking for some info. I just want to make sure that I am snorkling the intake, transmission, and any liquid breather tubes. Anything else???
 

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All there is to snorkle is the air intake for throttle body,and the intake and exhaust for the belt housing,I am currently getting My stuff in a pile to snorkle and relocate radiator in center of roll cage behind seats.I will post pics when I am done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That would be awesome thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Orlando I am always at river ranch.
 

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Getting ready to snorkle my 700 and am just looking for some info. I just want to make sure that I am snorkling the intake, transmission, and any liquid breather tubes. Anything else???
6 vent lines:
Front 1/2
- front diff
- rad fan motor
- rad overflow bottle

back 1/2
- rear diff
- throttle body
- gas tank

Snorkel air intake for engine. i used 2 * 1 1/2 abs lines and it works great
Snorkel clutch intake and exhaust. used 1 1/2 abs for both and it works great but I run in a colder climate which helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all that info that was awesome
 

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Thanks for all that info that was awesome
cost you a beer....

Front lines come stock running to just in front of the driver under the hood. All three front lines terminate at same spot at where the hood meets the dash topper. These are easy to follow backwards. I used black oil cooler hose and ran the three lines (black) up the roll cage in front of the passnger to slightly higher than head height. Zipped tied to the roll cage and looks really good/barley notice it. Most guys miss the rad fan hose but just follow these 3 back and it is super easy.

Back 3 lines I ran under engine cover to come up roll cage just behing passenger head. Used black oil cooler line again. Zipped ties in black to rollcage behind passenger head.
 

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Thanks for all that info that was awesome
di-electric grease is also your friend.
Grease the spark plug/boot and coil wires under drivers seat for sure.
I also grease all elec connections every few months.

If you run a lot of water/swamps also put a zip tie through the eye of the drain plug at the bottom of your clutch case to the frame. I have seen a couple guys snag this drain plug and pull it out never to be seen again. Zipping it in means at least you will not loose it if snagged. If you loose it clutch gets wet and slips but let it sit a few minutes and the heat/draining makes it good to go until you can service it. At least this way you do not loose the drain plug and find yourself stranded wet where you can not get back to your starting point. Otherwise we sharpen a stick to plug the hole to ride home but that is a ******* fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I never thought of all this thanks a bunch!
 

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I used 1.5" bilge exhaust hose. I didn't have to cut my airbox. The stock rubber intake has two compartments to it and the hose can just push right in nice and tight. I siliconed around each very well and put a zip tie around the hole thing. I ran one hose to each side of the rhino to the front verticle roll cages. From there, I used a rubber 1.5" to 2" reducer to go into a 2" pvc 90 and ran 2" pvc up each side. This reducer makes a very good draining point should you ever get water in a snorkle (I know I have). You just loosen the reducer with the hose clamp and you can drain very fast and easy. It took longer to paint the pvc than it did to install the snorkle. Install took all of 20 minutes maybe. Here are a couple pics. I did it this way cause I didn't want to cut my airbox or any plastic. The first pic is of the inside of the airbox lid. If you look close, you can see the hose coming into each compartment of the rubber intake.
 

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