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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I have read through the majority of the Poorboy Turbo thread and I still have questions regarding my own setup.

Here is some background:

I bought a 2006 660 turbo'd with the TSI kit...yeah I know...the motor had 95 hours on it when it the top end took a crap (90 PSI from the compression test). So, now after extensive research and many calls to TSI and MCX I have an idea of the fixes I want to perform to make it "right". If you have other suggestions, DO TELL!

Here is what I am thinking to make a reliable ride:

#1 AFR Guage
#2 ESI Clutch Kit
#3 Programmable Dynotek CDI (0 or -2 timing retard)
#4 .40 over bore with a 9.9:1 forged piston & cometic gasket kit

and this is where I am getting stuck:

#5 head shim to decrease the compression from 9.9:1 to 9:1. I don't know how to calculate the size of head shim I need based upon the new compression and displacement. I also don't know where to find the head shim to purchase. HELP PLEASE!

ALSO...I am not looking to start the turbo's suck and I will never get it right war, I just need help with my setup.

LAST...the guys at MCX deserve a ton of kudos, they have helped me out a ton even though my turbo setup is a TSI kit. Thanks!
 

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MCX is great to deal with...!

IMO...reliability and 660-turbo are a contradiction in terms...

For the amount of hassle I would either get a 700efi for turbo or stick with a built motor...not what you want to hear...sorry about that... :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the encouragement and advice...if either of you have something helpful next time keep it to yourself.

I WILL have a reliable turbo'd motor! Just because u rookies haven't had success doesn't mean it isn't possible.

If anyone has actual solutions and advice I
Am all ears.
 

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The guys at English Racing is WA have a turbo 660 Rhino. They KNOW their ****!! they have got over 120WHP on there raptors with STOCK yep STOCK internals. It is possible to do a blow through system. If your already at 9:9.1 I wouldnt go to much lower. It can create Turbo Lag. Try it at that ratio, just run lower boost. You should be dialed! englishracing.net
check it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks slow rhino...it's funny you mention them, becuase I already have my raptor 700 setup with an english racing turbo system and it HAULS ACE! I will give Lucas a call. 2011-05-11_20-03-39_973.jpg
 

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Hey Ksidor? Your not Paul by chance? If so this is Arrin, I raced you with my banshee with the DTR guys a couple years ago now. Im friends with Jared and Mic.
 

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Thanks for the encouragement and advice...if either of you have something helpful next time keep it to yourself.

I WILL have a reliable turbo'd motor! Just because u rookies haven't had success doesn't mean it isn't possible.

If anyone has actual solutions and advice I
Am all ears.
lol
 

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you could try running 2 base gaskets. i have some of those turbo parts left over from a car, if your local or pay the shipping you can have them
 

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My only recomendation would be to make sure you have a rather large charge canister. All single cylinder setups that I have worked with generally required a canister in the 1.5 times the engine displacement area. Good luck and let me know if you have any specific questions I can try and answer.

Nate
Alba Racing
 

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i have a 660with mpi supercharger and it blew head gasket twice.The fix was o-ring cylinder,low comp piston,coppergasket and arp head studs.6 months of trail rider and no problems,im in florida and it was great in summer.i do have wideband,best tool for tuning and the other best tool is (patience)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Awesome, thanks for the heads up all.

I bought a AFR meter today for tuning and already welded a bung in the down pipe.

Regarding the charge canister, I wondered about a plenum, I will give mcx a shout and see if they would sell me theirs separate from the kit.

I am considering 2 head gaskets but I will chat with mcx first to see if this will give me enough displacement to eliminate some compression. I will update as I progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay, I spoke with MCX and his assessment was that if I put a 9.9:1 forged piston in as a replacement I should shim the head to reduce the compression so that I have 9.5:1 - 9:1, which would require a 1.8mm shim.

After looking on a few other forums I found that cometic will make most any size/thickness head gasket you need. After a call to them I finally got the thicker gasket I needed. Here were the specs on the gasket(s)

Stock gasket is .030in or .762mm

According to MCX I need a 1.8mm gasket or .0708in

Cometic makes a .065in or a 1.6mm gasket...ORDERED IT!

I figure I will decrease my compression some but not too much, I am working toward a happy medium. Without having the calculations needed to determine what this will actually put my compression at, I am crossing my fingers that the advice I have recieved so far is good and this will all work.

To be safe though I think I will only increase my boost from 6 psi to 8 psi. I don't want to push it too much!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
base gaskets , i dont think you could run 2 head gaskets
+1 I would not double up head gaskets! I would leave it at that compression ratio!! you dont need to lower it. I have seen turbo set ups at 10.5:1 and still running crazy boost.

Thanks SLOW, but from the reading I have been doing I would need a ton of mods to make the engine reliable running that kind of compression i.e. (valve adjustments and springs, hot cams, o-ring milled head, new rod, new crank bearings, etc.)

I know it sounds bad, but I am trying to get away with the bare minimum. This is going to be my wife's ride and I would rather spend my cash on my own bike...IS THAT BAD? Ah well!

I am hoping for 45-50 hp with the mods I am doing this round and most of all a RELIABLE bike.
 

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Keep in mind that a thicker head gasket can also effect cam timing and cause issues with timing chains and tensioners...

Nate
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Keep in mind that a thicker head gasket can also effect cam timing and cause issues with timing chains and tensioners...

Nate
How do I combat that with the timing chain? Do I just loosen up the tensioner?

And I can adjust the cam timing with the dynatek, right?
 

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dynatek is ignition timing, you will have to dial in your cam timing with a degree wheel, i have a couple hot cams if your interested.
 
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