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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,
I am attempting to install the Jegs 28,000 BTU Cabin Heater. My problem lie with finding a Y splitter for both the supply and return lines to the raditor. My Jegs heater core has 5/8 inlet / outlet pipes.

i read in another post that the raditor lines for an 06 Rhino 660 are 22MM or 13/16.Needless to say a 22MM Y Splitter and a 22Mm to 5/8 adapter does not exist. 3/4 fittings are way too loose. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for your time fellas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TS2, are you talking about like a black pipe T like a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 ? I suppose i could maybe get that T in brass too. Your saying the hose should slip over the pipe?

The only thing that worries me is wouldn't you be downsizing the raditor circuit by slipping the hoses over the pipe?

thanks for taking the time to reply!
 

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Hello, if you restrict it will only be a tad at that , best thing go to auto zone etc... and see what fitting the have that will meet your needs , on my heater my lines was 3/4 on the heater and 1 inch on the rhino and I used pipe fittings from my local farm store to make my heater work . just make sure that the fitting will handle heat up to 220 ..
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello, if you restrict it will only be a tad at that , best thing go to auto zone etc... and see what fitting the have that will meet your needs , on my heater my lines was 3/4 on the heater and 1 inch on the rhino and I used pipe fittings from my local farm store to make my heater work . just make sure that the fitting will handle heat up to 220 ..
Jake
Thanks for the good advice Jake. I’ll do just that
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just finished the install. I have to admit, i am not getting blown out with heat. Its okay, and thats about it. Although the blower is incredibly string and moves a ton of air, it makes not sense to run it on anything but low. I have to say i am a little disappointed. Its something more than I had though. I am really hoping maybe one of you guys will see something I did wrong like maybe i tied into the side of the raditor that was water leaving instead of entering. I am fairly sure i tied into the entering side of the rad though since the temp sensor is on the same side.
I did have to weld on steel mounting brackets for the heater box. Also, i relocated the coolant reserve tank to be the highest point of the system. I welded brackets for this as well.

Here it is! I welcome criticism and suggestions. Definitely anything I did wrong, i would like to know. Thanks!
 

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It really looks like you tapped into the return side of the radiator. If the hose you cut is the lower one on the radiator, then yes, you did. You'll want to swap that around.

If you need some custom fittings made, let me know. I could whip something up on the lathe pretty easily.

Edit: Looking at pic 5 and 6, I can't tell which radiator hose is higher up....
 

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I believe when i did mine,I tapped into the drivers side hose for my inlet to the heater (before rad) and tapped into the outlet hose of the rad for the outlet of the heater. I also bought the tees off of ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe when i did mine,I tapped into the drivers side hose for my inlet to the heater (before rad) and tapped into the outlet hose of the rad for the outlet of the heater. I also bought the tees off of ebay.
Bless you Sir! I haven scoured the internet for a 7/8 x 5/8 x 7/8 Y fittings and had given up. I ordered those you posted immediately. Thank you!!

Also, thanks guys for spotting that I had the tad connection on the leaving side instead of the entering. I am going to move that to tonight. Man I hope that helps give me more heat.

i wonder if anyone has ever installed an electric water pump to help the stock one out. I know the original was fine for pushing through the one raditor but maybe not the original tad plus the new heater core. I dont know.
 

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Bless you Sir! I haven scoured the internet for a 7/8 x 5/8 x 7/8 Y fittings and had given up. I ordered those you posted immediately. Thank you!!

Also, thanks guys for spotting that I had the tad connection on the leaving side instead of the entering. I am going to move that to tonight. Man I hope that helps give me more heat.

i wonder if anyone has ever installed an electric water pump to help the stock one out. I know the original was fine for pushing through the one raditor but maybe not the original tad plus the new heater core. I dont know.
Glad to have helped. I had the same problem until I found these tees.
Also I do not think that you will need a electric water pump. Mine worked fine without it and it may sound crazy but it my hinder your heater efficiency. One other thing I did was put a valve on my heater inlet line as to shut it off when not in use.

 

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The way that you have the heater hooked up now, I don't think you'd need the water pump either. If you were to use both of the Y's and have one on the inlet to the radiator and the other to the outlet of the radiator, I would agree the water pump would likely help. Main thing I would be worried about is ensuring you get all of the air out of the heater core. Having the overflow up higher won't help any. I would fill the coolant system up through one of the heater hoses once you have everything else together. Get a transmission funnel, attach to the top heater hose and hold it up as high as you can while adding the coolant. Start with the radiator cap off and put back on once it starts running from there. When the coolant starts coming out of the heater core, reinstall the hose.

Keep us updated though. I went ahead and ordered some parts last night as well to install my own.
 

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My heater was hooked up to be used as a defroster. The heater was higher than my rad. As long as you put the tees in on the vertical sections of the coolant lines, this will work as it did for me.Pinch the hose(hot side) between your rad(inlet) and your tee(outlet) so that the full force of coolant can blast through the heater core. As the air passes through the core and exits the return tee,the air will go up to the rad. With rad cap off, top off coolant and start machine and add coolant as the air burps, while you are doing this don't forget to bleed at engine also.Rev the machine up a few times to make sure the core has burped completely. Once full,put cap back on. Let cool and check again and add if necessary. You may want to put the valve in as to help keep the coolant from draining when you take the rad cap off. My system never gave me any problems.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
read my link , I use a toyota 12 volt water pump for my setup on my heater .
What did you use to connect to the electrical plug? Everything else was perfect, the heater hoses slipped right on and the mounting points I was able to weld up a bracket to the frame. I used two push on spades cut in half. As soon as I hit some bumps though, they worked themselves loos though. Wish i could find a place where I could order the exact plug for the electrical connection.
 

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What did you use to connect to the electrical plug? Everything else was perfect, the heater hoses slipped right on and the mounting points I was able to weld up a bracket to the frame. I used two push on spades cut in half. As soon as I hit some bumps though, they worked themselves loos though. Wish i could find a place where I could order the exact plug for the electrical connection.
Im not sure what you are trying to tap into. Are you trying to tap into a factory plug somewhere? If nothing esle cut the plug off and put some crimp heat shrink wire terminals on it. I had a aux fuse box that I installed and simply wired into that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think what I am going to do is take your suggestion and use a razor the cut away the molding around the prongs then solder wire directly to them. Then I’ll just put some heat shrink over that. That should work I am hope.

i am still having trouble getting the air out even after welding on another bracket for the reservoir tank and mounting it as high as I could. I may have to put in a T right before the top inlet pipe of the heater core to help get the air out.


10887 water pump pig tail from eBay should be what you need.

Never mind....that plug doesn't fit.

You should be able to find a pig tail that fits the electric water pump.
 
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