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Discussion Starter #1
3300 miles. Doesn’t smoke but very little at first start up. It goes through oil enough that I likely would never need to change the oil. Like a quart every 3rd time I use it. And I don’t run it hard. I putz around my property dragging trees or hauling wood or rocks. I’ve used it the last three weekends and put 6 miles on it. It used about a qt.

where is it going?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
10W-40 from the parts store. Nothing fancy. I can’t see spending twice the money for the same stuff.

I’ll check the air filter this weekend.
 

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For a Rhino being a quart low is a lot. You will want to make sure your parts store oil is wet clutch safe (JASO MA is the spec). I agree that checking the air filter box is the right place to look, although I usually see it there on Rhinos that are run hard or over filled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For a Rhino being a quart low is a lot. You will want to make sure your parts store oil is wet clutch safe (JASO MA is the spec). I agree that checking the air filter box is the right place to look, although I usually see it there on Rhinos that are run hard or over filled.
Oh - Dang. I knew I shouldn't add any oil additives that might not be good for the wet clutch - but I didn't think about needing that JASO MA specification on the oil... I'll check.
 

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I had the same issues with my 07 660. Ended up needing a top end overhaul. Mine had about 3,500 miles on it.
 

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X2 top end needed: smokes at start up possible worn valve guides/seals-pop the spark plug out see how oil contaminated it is-if yah fix it can’t go wrong with top quality oil- all two plus quarts of it!!!!
 

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Any ballparks on what a top end rebuild should cost. I don’t have the ability to take that on...
 

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Best way to answer that (because there are so many variables) is to inquire at local motorcycle shops and/or dealers to get a quote. If you have mechanical ability you would save a bunch by doing the teardown yourself then taking cylinder, head & piston to a machine shop and have them make necessary repairs. A quick Google check showed cost for a top end kit anywhere from $150 - $500. Be weary of "cheap kits" - remember the old adage "you get what you pay for" so save up your bucks and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what oil are you using ?? and check your air box/ filter for blow by .

Jake
first -no oil in the air box and filler is pretty clean.

second- I changed the oil on Saturday. I put in Rotella 15W-40 - now it seems to be running hotter because the fan was running a lot it never did that prior to the oil change (And we had a relativelt cool day and I wasn’t working it hard at all. Just puttering around in the woods picking up kindling

I used 15W 40 because that’s what I could find. Would that higher viscosity cause the engine to be running warmer?

is there an aftermarket temp gauge one can get to use in conjunction with the idiot light already in place?
 

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I have used Rotella 15W-40 and it has worked great for me. I also use the Rotella T6 5w-40. I have never noticed the 15W-40 running hotter than any other oil, but I live in Arizona and my fan running is pretty normal. At operating temp, the 15W-40 should be about the same as 10W-40, with the 10W-40 having a lower viscosity when cold. You can add an aftermarket temp gauge, and it is a good idea. I sometimes use a non-contact thermometer, it is helpful in troubleshooting because you can choose a number of locations to measure the temp instead of just one. I will check different sections of the radiator, if some of the cores are blocked you can notice that they are cooler than others. Does the Rhino still seem to be using oil at the same rate as it did with the part store 10W-40?
 

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I have used Rotella 15W-40 and it has worked great for me. I also use the Rotella T6 5w-40. I have never noticed the 15W-40 running hotter than any other oil, but I live in Arizona and my fan running is pretty normal. At operating temp, the 15W-40 should be about the same as 10W-40, with the 10W-40 having a lower viscosity when cold. You can add an aftermarket temp gauge, and it is a good idea. I sometimes use a non-contact thermometer, it is helpful in troubleshooting because you can choose a number of locations to measure the temp instead of just one. I will check different sections of the radiator, if some of the cores are blocked you can notice that they are cooler than others. Does the Rhino still seem to be using oil at the same rate as it did with the part store 10W-40?
I haven’t got to run it enough to tell (about oil consumption) and I won’t for a while now. I just had a surgery that prevents me from being very active for about 3 weeks.

does anyone have a temp gauge they like and an ideal place where I can tap into the system to monitor the temperature. and what should be normal? Like 210 Fahrenheit?
 

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210 is over heat I believe ,220 plus might loose the head gasket. 185 or less is my target. Your stock - as long as there is no warning light Yamaha says your good! Temp gauge and temp light switch sender both must find ground some how. On cy-head Remove switch -Put temp sender in its place-then install the light switch in a 9mm double hose barb fitting with a 1/8 pipe tapping (buy on eBay)for the switch. Top cooling hose on the head driver side needs to be cut to install the hose fitting. (Micro) hose clamp a ground wire to warning light switch....Ungrounded-dash light won’t turn off. Less work if you just add temp sender/hose inline fitting ....bit less accurate.


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