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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a rhino that won't move in forward or reverse. Motor runs fine and shifter is working, I jacked front and back up and went threw the gears. Owner said the belt had never been replaced and it has 650 hrs on it. Does this sound like a possible broken belt or maybe the mid gears ?
 

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Welcome to the site, pull the sheave cover big black cover driver side you can see the belt. In neutral rev it up and see if the belt moves. search youtube on rhino 660 sheaves. let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah that was my next step. I will goggle the sheave wasn't aware there was issues with them, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doesn't move in 4wd either. It's still on my trailer and won't have time to mess with until fall sometime. I really didn't need this thing but I couldn't turn down for the price and it came with a new Moose snow plow. I have a John Deere gator hpx I did I ground up restore on including a new Vanguard 23 hp swap. The Deere has a larger bed for hauling bit the rhino looks much more off-road capable. I mostly use one for working around the cabin i.e. hauling wood, weeds from lake and other misc. Some offroad trails and street driving to the tavern for food 😉. I think the rhino will be better in the snow for ice fishing. My gator has 25' tires and I plan on 26's for the gator. I will report back when I get a chance to open it up for diagnosis, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I got a chance to remove clutch cover today and I found the following. Primary or rear clutch inner sheave rotates but out doesn't. The outer will act like it wants to move just after shutting engine off when rpm's drop it will engage for a split second before engine stops. I am assuming there is an issue with the roller weight's ? Previous owner said he replaced clutch parts but I thought he said the wet clutch.
 

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That sounds more like the splines on the outer are stripped


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First pic is splines im talking about
Second pic is stripped splines
That would actually b ur cam plate splines, dont know why i said outer in my first post

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Pull the primary and check the fixed primary splines while your at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I pulled primary and went through it. Only thing I could find wrong was the o-ring was installed between the sheave and outer housing like you would a face gasket LOL. I thought the extra clearance might have caused an issue so I inspected everything , put o-ring on correctly and try again and nothing. The wet clutch makes a noise and is a little rough when you turn the shaft like a bad bearing or something. The one way bearing seems to be working. The old fart replaced the wet clutch and I wonder if he got something wrong and said f it ain't tearing apart again. For the wet clutch to not be working the clutch pads/shoes would have to not be moving out under increased rpm like a chainsaw clutch, this in turn spins the primary ? Is my understanding correct ? What could he have got wrong, doesn't the clutch come as an assembly when purchased ?
 

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Previous owner said he replaced clutch parts but I thought he said the wet clutch.
If he put a Chinese knock off wet clutch in then that is most likely your problem. Those things tend to blow apart after a couple miles :eek

If the clutch is gone, you need to replace it with a Yamaha original part. DO NOT attempt to go cheap on this part.

What could he have got wrong, doesn't the clutch come as an assembly when purchased ?
Yes and no. An OEM clutch comes as a unit but you can buy cheap Chinese knock off replacement shoes and again, they last a couple miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If it needs a wet clutch should I do the slug kit while I'm at it ? Plan on 26" tires and few other minor mods, maybe sheave and secondary spring possibly cdi .
 

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Ya the slug kit is very easy to do and helps the bottom end.can see the gold plugs in the new clutch. Got the kit from hunter works. Comes with gasket so don’t need to order a new one. Maybe check your belt and make sure it’s good while you have it all open.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This just dawned on me, if the primary is spinning even though it doesn't close then the wet clutch would have to be engaged correct ? Could it engage enough to spin the primary yet slip so bad it won't close it whatsoever . Ok here is what I found. The clutch pads are all burnt or discolored in the same spot on each pack, the surfaces one way bearing ride on are all ridged. There are no wear ridged on the house and it looks ok. I noticed the assemble had 3/16 of in and out play while on motor not sure if that's normal but almost seems like should have had a spacer to take up some of the play. The clutch assemble center hole that splined bushing goes in had worn some creating a ridge of metal like mushrooming ? See pics. Not sure if any of this would cause it to not engage at all ? I would thing the worst it would have done was slip ??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pictures 2 and 3 of the clutch assembly shows the splined center bushing is sepperated from clutch pack, shouldn't this be pressed together or welded to the clutch assembly plate ? Mine came apart ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's what it was, splined coupling sepperated from clutch (pressed fit) and spun , not turning clutch pack. Anyone ever seen this before? I believe it's a Chinese clutch that previous owner installed and didn't last long i.e. got fusrated and sold to me
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So the new wet clutch came in and I put it all back together just to find out the inner primary sheave wouldn't fit the splined shaft. I thought they sent me the wrong wet clutch housing. Come to find out the previous owners wet clutch had to of been a lot with sheave because the Chinese sheave had 21 splined and oem is 20. Finally done and she runs good, 46 mph all stock except a dynatech rev box.
 
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