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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm new to the forums. Anyway here's my problem and what I've done/tried.

Ok so after sitting for awhile my rhino would not start for the life of it, it would turn over and over but never even hint at starting so immediately I though bad fuel pump. So. I ordered a new fuel pump and ignition coil ( The one on there was really corroded). Also I had a new carb ordered because the one on there I noticed had one of the parts "jimmy rigged". So all those parts come in. I install them all and..... The damn thing won't crank or turn over (what the heck!?). None of these parts replaced should have affected the starter or electrical system in anyway.

So... Here's what I've tried:
Tested load on the battery. - passed with flying colors
Tested all fuses - all good
Tested the starter by plugging battery directly on it- good
Tested all other electric components (lights, dash, etc) all good

What I've noted. When I put a multimeter between the solenoid(ignition relay) and starter and turn the key.... Reads 0. My guess is bad relay but the fuses are fine. However I'm not ruling out that it might still be busted. When I turn the key to "on" I hear the click, when I turn it to "start" I hear a faint click (in the fuse/battery box. Could a bad CDI do this possibly??


On more thing don't know if this somehow matters- currently my back end is on blocks and the tires are off (replacing brake pads). Would this possibly set off some sensor no allowing it to get the "ok" to start ?

Thanks for the input and help (if your wondering, yes my parking brake is on and my gear shifter is in nuetral).
 

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Hi guys, I'm new to the forums. Anyway here's my problem and what I've done/tried.

Ok so after sitting for awhile my rhino would not start for the life of it, it would turn over and over but never even hint at starting so immediately I though bad fuel pump. So. I ordered a new fuel pump and ignition coil ( The one on there was really corroded). Also I had a new carb ordered because the one on there I noticed had one of the parts "jimmy rigged". So all those parts come in. I install them all and..... The damn thing won't crank or turn over (what the heck!?). None of these parts replaced should have affected the starter or electrical system in anyway.

So... Here's what I've tried:
Tested load on the battery. - passed with flying colors
Tested all fuses - all good
Tested the starter by plugging battery directly on it- good
Tested all other electric components (lights, dash, etc) all good

What I've noted. When I put a multimeter between the solenoid(ignition relay) and starter and turn the key.... Reads 0. My guess is bad relay but the fuses are fine. However I'm not ruling out that it might still be busted. When I turn the key to "on" I hear the click, when I turn it to "start" I hear a faint click (in the fuse/battery box. Could a bad CDI do this possibly??


On more thing don't know if this somehow matters- currently my back end is on blocks and the tires are off (replacing brake pads). Would this possibly set off some sensor no allowing it to get the "ok" to start ?

Thanks for the input and help (if your wondering, yes my parking brake is on and my gear shifter is in nuetral).
Parking brake will never have anything to do with it. There are 2 interlocks, either of which will allow the machine to crank over: The Neutral switch (Neutral indicator must light up) and the Brake pedal switch (brake lights in the rear must light up), not the E brake. The brake lights will allow the machine to start in gear if you ever need it to.

It seems that there has been a rash of cranking problems lately. It should be easy to find these threads to soak in all of the different things that can go wrong.

The refusal to start even after what seems like a long period of cranking is normal for a stock carbureted Rhino (450 & 660). It is due to the loss of prime to the fuel pump. The fuel drains back into the tank and the lines are all empty within some number of days after you park it unused. It really can take several minutes of cranking to establish the prime. Again, do a search and read the threads regarding this. There are a number of fixes and workarounds.

The starter circuit begins at the battery positive terminal where a large 6 gauge Red cable takes it to the starter relay (terminal labeled B for Battery). When you turn the key to the start position it grounds one side of the relay coil and the other side of the coil is getting voltage from brake switch and/or neutral switch. The click you hear is the coil pulling the relay contacts closed, that usually means that the coil is OK. Now that the starting relay is closed, it sends current from the other large terminal (usually labeled M for motor)through another big battery cable to the starter motor positive terminal. The starter motor is bolted onto the metal engine cases which has a terminal for a big Black ground cable which is connected to the battery negative terminal

Starter relay contacts can get burned from arcing and will not complete the circuit when closed. Check for this by putting a shorting bar across the 2 big terminals on the relay. The starter motor should turn over when you do this.

Check all of those battery cable terminations at both ends. Look for loose connections, dirty or corroded mating surfaces and signs of overheating where the cable enters the lug. The ground termination at the engine case is a common one to fail due to its proximity to water and splash as well as engine vibration.

If all else fails, trace the voltages at each termination of the battery cables, while the ignition switch is in the start position. If you see a positive voltage on the engine case, it would mean that you do not have a connection to battery negative.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, Update, based on suggestions:

Brake lights do illuminate, neutral light is illuminated, Again there is no Power going to the Starter when I turn the key to 'start'. The multimeter shows Zero from the terminal on top of the starter. :doubt:

When I do turn the key to 'start' the only thing that happens is the 'oil' light on the dash lights up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One more thing: From what I understand, after the Neutral and/or the Brake are applied to complete/close the Circuit the CDI has to initiate the final connection for the Ground-, Correct? Without that Ground connection the Starter will not crank, so is there a way I can bypass this part (the CDI) just to test? I've already tested the starter as previously posted, and it works fine.

Thanks alot for any and all help
 

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Ok, Update, based on suggestions:
Brake lights do illuminate, neutral light is illuminated, Again there is no Power going to the Starter when I turn the key to 'start'. The multimeter shows Zero from the terminal on top of the starter. :doubt:

When I do turn the key to 'start' the only thing that happens is the 'oil' light on the dash lights up.

There is no "Oil" indicator on a Rhino, nor is there an Oil sensor of any kind. It is your "Temperature" light that should be lighting up to verify that the bulb is not burnt out. So that verifies that your start function on the low power side (start relay coil) is probably working.

No voltage on the starter motor probably means no start, eh? Now you need to take that voltmeter further upstream toward the battery to find where it is being lost.

One more thing: From what I understand, after the Neutral and/or the Brake are applied to complete/close the Circuit the CDI has to initiate the final connection for the Ground-, Correct? Without that Ground connection the Starter will not crank, so is there a way I can bypass this part (the CDI) just to test? I've already tested the starter as previously posted, and it works fine.

Thanks alot for any and all help
No the CDI is not involved. The ignition switch brings the ground side of the relay coil to ground. The relay clicks, right? If so there is not a problem in the coil side circuitry.

Please re-read my post where I gave you the pathway of the high current from battery to starter motor. Since that did not take: I will give you explicit directions as to how to use that voltmeter: Set the voltmeter to DC Volts and the 20 Volt range. Put the black test probe on the battery negative terminal. Put the Red test probe on the positive terminal of the battery. You should read 12.7 Volts; this verifies that your voltmeter is working and that the battery is fully charged. Move the red test probe to the far end of the big Red cable coming off of the battery positive terminal. You should see battery Hot (12.7 Volts) there. Now move the red test probe to the other big terminal on the starter relay. You should see no voltage there. Now, turn the ignition key to the start position and you should hear the relay click and the voltage on that second terminal should go up to that same 12.7 Volts that you saw on the battery.

You probably did not see the voltage come up on the second terminal of the starter relay. If so, that means that your starter relay needs to be replaced. The contacts are burned and it is not working.

To repeat the things that I said in the first post, you can put a shorting bar across the relay terminals. If the starter motor turns over, you have verified that the relay contacts are bad. I will not be repeating anything again, so take heed, and hone your reading and comprehension skills.
 
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