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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a Rhino that starts right up, but when you turn key from start to run it stalls. I have checked stator,coil,fuel pump and pressure,new starter soliniod, fuses,key ignition ,cdi. My relays don't look burnt, at my wits end any help would be great...thanks
 

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You may have an electrical issue where the run circuit has a short or the cdi unit is not functioning properly. Possible the ignition switch itself is bad. From what you describe, the signal to stay running once you let off the start position is not happening, which would tell the engine to shut off. If you have a multi-meter, I'd check continuity in the various switch positions first to rule out a bad switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Greg1991, thanks for the reply. I Check the key switch and I have a msd cdi which plugs into the rhino and the stock cdi, so they would both have to be bad. I don't think they would both go bad, but possible.
 

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Doubt it is the cdi also, so now my next idea would be a short in the wiring somewhere which will be a total pain to find. Somewhere you are losing the signal to stay running.
 

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Hi, I have a Rhino that starts right up, but when you turn key from start to run it stalls. I have checked stator,coil,fuel pump and pressure,new starter soliniod, fuses,key ignition ,cdi. My relays don't look burnt, at my wits end any help would be great...thanks
Do you have access to a multimeter (measures voltage and ohms)?
 

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I do not see where you have stated what year and model of Rhino that you have. So, I am going to approach this as if you have a 660. The electrical system is a bit different for the 700, but most of this stuff will be essentially the same.

This is a 2 person job, or you have to arrange a way to anchor your meter's probe tips to the places that you are going to probe. Put the meter in the 20Volt DC range switch setting. Put the black test lead on the battery negative terminal. Anchor it there for these subsequent voltage tests. Put the red probe on the battery positive terminal. You should see right around 12.7 Volts on the meter. If not your battery is not fully charged. Charge it full up before going any further.

Now, pull the backup fuse (in the fuse box) out. Put the red meter probe on one of the fuse terminals that you have exposed, and then the other. One end should have shown the full 12.7 Volts. This is the only fuse in the fuse box that is continually powered and is not powered by the ignition switch. The end of the fuse terminal that is hot is very likely the hot side of all of the other fuses as well for future measurements.

Remove the signal fuse. Move the red probe to the hot terminal of the signal fuse. You should see zero volts with the key switch in the off position. With the key in the run position you should see the full 12.7 Volts. With the key in the start position, you should see 12.7 Volts with a couple of volts of drop due to the starter motor cranking.

If you see everything above behaving as it should, so far, your ignition power circuitry is running as it should. If this is not good, your ignition switch is suspect or there is a wiring problem somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. (or a bad ground connection from the battery negative terminal to the wire harness ground system. The little black wire that is siamesed into the ground lug on the battery. This black wire goes into the wire harness behind the battery (through a quick disconnect terminal).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SteveS, I checked the fuses, the TWO first fuses on from passenger side are hot with the key off. I guess I have a ground problem ?
 

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SteveS, I checked the fuses, the TWO first fuses on from passenger side are hot with the key off. I guess I have a ground problem ?
I doubt that is a ground problem at this point. What are the names associated with each of those fuses?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The back up fuse has no power ,it's on the driver side of fuse box . The signal and head fuses which are on the other side of the fuse box are hot.
 

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The back up fuse has no power ,it's on the driver side of fuse box . The signal and head fuses which are on the other side of the fuse box are hot.
Something is not right here. You are measuring voltage with the key off? I suspect that you have the map of the fuse box upside down with relationship to where you are looking.

Here is a snapshot out of the owners manual. You should be standing alongside of the machine looking forward and from the passengers side to be looking at the fuse layout. To be sure look at the relationship of the battery to the fuse box in this picture, if I have this right....

 

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Ok , 9 & 8 are hot. I had it backwards
OK, #9 (Backup) should be hot when the key is off (at all times), so that circuit is likely OK.

#8 ("Ignition") should also be hot when the key is off, which I did not expect based on my experience with the 660. It has a really strange layout in the system, in that this single little 10A fuse feeds the ignition switch which in turn feeds the power to most everything else when it is turned to the run and start positions.

In tracing the circuit it looks like the ECU has the job of killing the ignition. Yamaha's naming that fuse "ignition" is really misleading. What is strange here is that the "ignition" fuse (only 10 Amps by the manual) has to feed a total of at least 3 other branching fuses which total up to a rating of at least 35 Amps... This should not be !!! Would you check the rating of the "ignition" fuse that was installed in your machine? Check it with your ohmmeter for continuity just to be on the safe side because they do not always visibly show if they are blown.

I've got some dental work to have done tomorrow so I might not get back onto this until Tuesday. Sorry if I have to delay...
 

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No problem, I'll check and post.
A good night's sleep works wonders. Upon waking up, I realized that the ignition fuse, through the ignition switch, powers up what Yamaha calls the "load control" relay. This relay then applies voltage to the rest of the fuses in the fuse box. This relay needs to be checked for function.

It will have a Brown/bLue stripe wire leading into it. That Br/bL wire should be hot when the key is in the run and start positions. I have no clue as to where it is located in the battery box. Pull up each relay and look for the Br/bL wire on the back side of the relays. The relay that you need to check will have a Red, a Brown/Red stripe, a Black and the Brown/bLue stripe wire.
 
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