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Ok first off im new here i have reticently bought a 2008 rhino 700 ist a blacked out special edition the display is diffrent it has a dig. Tac an speedo an all lights the display is stock the guy at yamaha argued withe me about that but. The big question is how do i have an o8 700 with a carburetor? Im haveing some issuse with brakes making a ratteling noise when breaking hard and now at. Problem in the battery box. With the 4 wire conector with two fuses on it
 

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Welcome to the site, 08 700 have EFI. First thing I would do is check the Vin # on the driver side frame behind the rear tire. Is your air cleaner located under the hood? Some general pictures would help engine under the hood. Also you should have discs brakes on on 4 corners.
 

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My plate on drivers side says 2008. It has factorie stickers on it that says diff lock, on comand ,700. But it has a digital display. It has the 2 circle an the section wth all your lights temp, L H N R ect. The prev. Owner had put dmc exhaust ,all airlines ran up behind seats came with doors an top an bumper stock but my mane concer is my electrical issue and the noies when breaking. Iv had all kinds if atvs an am fairly good at working on them but this side by side is new to me
 

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There ar the four wires on top of the starter relay and the came loose lastnight in middle of no where i hooked them up an got the display on and it started. Shortly after it just died and now i fined a blown fuse the 30 amp on the relay put new one in at it poped it doon as i turned the key an ideas ?????
 

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Ok first off im new here i have reticently bought a 2008 rhino 700 ist a blacked out special edition the display is diffrent it has a dig. Tac an speedo an all lights the display is stock the guy at yamaha argued withe me about that but. The big question is how do i have an o8 700 with a carburetor? Im haveing some issuse with brakes making a ratteling noise when breaking hard and now at. Problem in the battery box. With the 4 wire conector with two fuses on it
There is no tach on any rhino

no carb on any 700 either, all EFI

post a pic of your dash on here
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its a 2008 700 ill post pics later. Of it but it dose in fackhave a carb snd its a 700 an a tachometer that is digital
 

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what makes u think it has a carb ? cuz the 700 looks like a carb but there is a fuel injector in there ,

also sounds like either a ground strap got messed up or your cdi is junk , or a wire is rubbing on metal
 

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There ar the four wires on top of the starter relay and the came loose lastnight in middle of no where i hooked them up an got the display on and it started. Shortly after it just died and now i fined a blown fuse the 30 amp on the relay put new one in at it poped it doon as i turned the key an ideas ?????
You probably have a short somewhere downstream. It will take some careful looking to find The problem.

If you have any electrical savvy this may be helpful to you: The fuse pops as soon as you turn the key on. With a 30 Amp fuse to boot, saying that it is a huge short circuit. One way to make the troubleshooting easier and more manageable is to rig up a 12 Volt incandescent light bulb in place of the fuse, just for testing. A 12 Volt, 18 Watt light bulb will limit the current flow to abut 1.5 Amps even with a dead short downstream. A headlight bulb at 25 - 30 Watts would limit the current to 2 - 2.5 Amps.
You will have the light lit up to full brightness with a dead short there, but the wiring will not be further damaged. This allows you to go around wiggling wires and connectors to try to find the problem spot, by watching the bulb. You can pull fuses out one by one in the main fuse banks and the bulb should go dimmer if that branch is where the short is.

The brightness/dimness gives you an inking of the current draw downstream. If you have the 18 Watt bulb in there and a good circuit with an 18 Watt current draw, you test light will be at half brightness (there are two resistances in series which causes 2 voltage drops, hence 1/2 brightness in each drop of 6 Volts each).

Whatever you do, DO NOT put a jumper in place of the fuse or use a larger fuse rating. You risk melting down the wiring in the circuit.
 

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There ar the four wires on top of the starter relay and the came loose lastnight in middle of no where i hooked them up an got the display on and it started. Shortly after it just died and now i fined a blown fuse the 30 amp on the relay put new one in at it poped it doon as i turned the key an ideas ?????
Based on the 30 Amp fuse being mounted on the starter relay, this is another piece of evidence that you have a 660 and not a 700. It is possible that this machine was left over from the previous model year and someone tagged it as a 2012 in order sell it full price during the 2012 model year. When you ask for info on this machine you probably should be looking at a 2011 660 as far as what you have to work on. Service manual, owners manual, parts fiche and that sort of stuff.

Just to demonstrate the factory info available to you, here is a snip out of the 660 owners manual that relates to the fuse that you have blowing. That 30 Amp fuse is the "Main" fuse. You should look at your battery box to verify that it is this same layout:

Rhino 660 Fuse Replacement.jpg


If you had a 700, your battery box would be laid out as below. The "Main" fuse in a 700 is not on the starter relay but rather in it's own special fuse holder and has a 40 Amp rating. On the 700, they used the same starter relay, but repurposed the fuse mount for fusing the fuel pump motor and it is a 10 Amp fuse. So, If you indeed had a 700, your troubleshooting of the fuse on the starter relay would be different than what I described earlier because the fuse would have a different purpose and different wiring connections.

Rhino 700 Fuse Replacement.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The diagram is corect above that it is a 660. I guess any thing is possable but all parts match a 700 (other that realay and fuse and the carb) so i dont know but now that is not my main concern i used a voltage today an tested every thingi found the readout for the startor relay and. Tested it an its good my key switch was acting up so i tested it and it has two low an two high reading points but the plug has one conetion that just makes my mutie meter flash?? I havent seen that befor and one other thing is i get a high read out on the frame its self. With the key off obviously any one have an idea. About those wires comeing loose an that sceniro
I appreciate. The advise guys thanks
 

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Also if any one has a schematic of that relay with. Color codeing. Just to double check
Your best bet would be to download the 660 service manual. If you are insistent that you have a 700 download a copy of that service manual as well. If you have both of those, you can likely compare them against the machine that you have and work around any mix up of components that you ay have. Find a post made by Tinken and you will find links to his site where he has posted these manuals for download. The wiring diagram that you need is usually the very last page of the manual.

There is another possibility as to what you have. There are numerous clones that have been made in China and shipped here to the states. They are mostly sold under differing "brand names". Some would be more honest than others. These machines are all direct copies of the Yamaha machine, some being more accurate than others. I am supposing that upon the introduction of a new design, the cloners would be hard pressed to come out with accurate copies of the new model in that same model year. So, what would they do in the interim?

One thing comes with every machine that Yamaha sells and that is the Owners Manual. That manual will have the Yamaha trademark and model information on the front cover. The owners manual does not always get transferred to the new owner when the machine is re-sold. Perhaps you were lucky and got it with the owners manual?

This may not be the exact model that you got, but just as a sample:


Here is the Yamaha site where I download my reference owners manuals. You should give it a try as there is some info in them that does not show up in the service manuals. Download both the 2007 (or "2008") 660 and 2008 700

https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/eu/services/owner-manuals/index.aspx
 

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The diagram is corect above that it is a 660. I guess any thing is possable but all parts match a 700 (other that realay and fuse and the carb) so i dont know but now that is not my main concern i used a voltage today an tested every thingi found the readout for the startor relay and. Tested it an its good my key switch was acting up so i tested it and it has two low an two high reading points but the plug has one conetion that just makes my mutie meter flash?? I havent seen that befor and one other thing is i get a high read out on the frame its self. With the key off obviously any one have an idea. About those wires comeing loose an that sceniro
I appreciate. The advise guys thanks
The "hot" frame could be due to your short. Yamaha does not deliberately ground the frame to the battery negative terminal. The only "Yamaha supported ground" is a short small wire pigtail coming from the wire harness behind the battery and connected to a little pigtail siamesed into the negative cable lug which it shares with the battery ground cable that is bolted onto the engine case, This little pigtail is daisy chained and split into differing runs within the wire harness. A little black ground wire goes to each and every electrical item that needs a ground connection. There are incidental connections to the frame, an example is the ignition coil which has a black pigtail for ground, which is electrically connected to the iron laminations of the coil. The strap wraps around this and is bolted to the frame. The threaded holes may or may not be painted over, so the electrical connection to the frame is suspect.

While you are tracing wires look for that pigtail at the battery negative terminal and see if you see any signs of overheating. This is a fairly common failure point in the "grounding system" and many a wire harness has been burnt up. You see a discolored insulator sleeve on the connector in the picture below:

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Im goin to check into these things this evning when i get off work ill post pics of it but i doubt the chinese thing. Im the second owner and the first owner put a 889.00 exhaust on it full skid plate 700.00 tires. Bumper. Fancy steareo who ever had it knew something about it
 

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Im goin to check into these things this evning when i get off work ill post pics of it but i doubt the chinese thing. Im the second owner and the first owner put a 889.00 exhaust on it full skid plate 700.00 tires. Bumper. Fancy steareo who ever had it knew something about it
Starting to believe you don't have a yamaha

Take a couple pics of the unit itself and the dash
 
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