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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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GNCC

can anyone point me to a company specializing in GNCC or selling GNCC equipment for the RHINO
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 06:37 AM
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gncc equip.??? we have perfomance mods
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like you are who i need to talk to I need to.
I need a kit to keep it 751 or right under,
and Im looking for a long travel suspension kit, but most ive sen for rhino os 6 in for the all out ones i would meed s 3 or 4 in kit but with all of the features of the wider kits, to keep it narrow for the trails but i dont want the smaller cheaper kit, im looking for s kit esp for GNCC if they make one like they do to nsrrow uo the razr, i want to widen the narrow like i said 304 in on esch sid,


Anyways most of the kits ive seen that are less than 6, dont offer the long travel kit in the width i need,
so im looking for that type susp kit
fox shocks to go with the kit
the engine kit,
exhaust
hi comp pisronn prefer cp , je second
cam,
and id have someone port the head

type thing im having problem finding is a real quality narrow long travel suspension
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 09:48 AM
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give me a call
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 10:20 AM
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You have some contradictions in terms regarding the suspension you say you want...

"long travel"... is generally considered to be +6 a-arms (usually with towers on the front) and much longer shocks...

"mid travel" are the +3 a-arms with stock length shocks...but always either aftermarket shocks or re-sprung and re-valved factory sport model shocks...

IMO... the ideal suspension for what you are talking about would NOT be considered long travel but is considerably more travel than stock and combines the best features of the narrow stock and mid travel...the "travel" is not the most important feature of a suspension imo...at least not for what you seem to want...the +6 are great for desert racing, short track racing and huge jumps...

If I were you I would put I-shock f-18 shocks on the front with stock a-arms...and an LSR + 3 a-arms on the rear with Elka Elite shocks valved and sprung specifically for the LSR +3 suspension...Everyone will disagree with me about it but none of them have done it...lol...

I have this but with Elkas on the front and rear...but I have also in the past had I-shocks on the front of a stock rhino before and if money were no object I would have them on the front of mine now....but only the f-18s and only on the front...they are a lot longer than stock shocks and have a lot of travel and completely adjustable...will give you more g/c in front...the +3 LSR a-arms in the rear also have more g/c than stock...

I would prefer what I have over +6 for any tight trail riding/racing every time...

The stability is very good...g/c is very good...travel is quite good...front end "response" to hard hits on the trail is excellent with those shocks...steering and handling are excellent...

With 5+2 wheels on all four corners and 11" wide tires on the rear the rail to rail width on that set up at the rear wheels is approx 61/62"...

With factory rims and tires it is more like 58/59"...

Being only 57" wide in the front with wide tires and 5+2 wheels not only helps prevent damage to your steering/spindles and give great steering etc it also makes it easier to "wiggle" thru the narrows...

Staying under 751cc is not a problem... I would contact Benchmark and/or Racers Edge AZ for motor work options...

We are closed...2013
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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keep in mind i race quads im picking this up bc i got friends with rhino s and razr s and my cuz has a rhino and let me borrow it and my girl loved it, now she races too, she can outride most of my friends on a quad that are not my serious racer friends, anyways we got talking and we could race together not on in am and one in pm but she liked riding the rhino better than her quad anyways, which i have more in that quad in parts than i could buy a rhino but im getting off track,


ok in my world if you run +1 or +4 arms it can be long travel, it can be negative 1/2 in and be long travel like on some ltr's
so that was why i was calling it long travel,

ruttingrhino, curious suggestion a few questions
1- would they sell the kit for just the rear.
2- i understand wanting the front narrower than the front i run my quad and in narrrower in the front but how much narrower would the front be, than the rear, whats wrong with fox shocks? are they not doing the sxs stuff like they do for quads, i am not a fan of elka shocks every set ive had , ive had to either send to another company to re configure- but my last set Jay from elka set them up at the track for me and he got them right, he is at most GNCC races and Jay knows his stuff.
so what offset are stock wheels, on a quad they are 3/2 and I and most run 4/1 offset so how does your 5/2 compare to the stock wheels, I dont like handling where u widen with spacers or wheels, on a quad anyways, some of the subtle things i feel on quad i may not feel on a sxs.

Thx for the reply rutting rhino this is what i was wanting, I assumed the rhino was still running a very similar engine to a raptor 700 or the grizzly 700, or has it gone to its own thing known, but the raptor and the rhino being 700fi's i was thinking they would me similar, i know its pushing something different but i was talking about people to mod, it so i thought i needed the builder to be knowledgeable in building engines for sxs and not just a 350 lb quad.

i hope you reply again rutting rhino and let us have some back on forth on some of your ideas, they were very interesting,
I am curious, you didnt mention motowoz,axis,pep,fox so many good shock brands.
Ill just be blunt on this I am sponsored but alot of my main sponsors aernt into SXS but i got others that re-sale every bodys parts so some things like shocks i was planning on getting thru them, so i was wanting to run fox shocks, and I plan on spending more than i should on it, i am going to run it in the gncc series which is only 6 races, so i want it to be able to jump a few jumps etc, im not talking 60ft doubles, the kind of stuff i am talking about ive jumped on stock rhinos and they had for along time with no problems they are more of s rthym jump series of jumps you got to land one to make the next and if you miss its no bigggie, so want good adjustable suspension
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 05:18 PM
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Just having really good shocks is going to be the best thing for you IMO...

That will definitely be the most bang for the buck...

You make a good point with regard to getting LSR to sell you rears only...

I know they won't break up existing kits...and always manufacture in pairs...

Most people wouldn't think to do it my way as they would assume that matching front to rear would be necessary...and that the added with in the front would be needed for maximum stability...and longer travel...

So you would not necessarily want to have to get new ones...if they were making new ones soon and you could order a rear only they would probably do it for you...

More to the point...if you have a +3 set of front and back to use...you might consider trying it with the REAR only first...mostly for quicker steering and like that...I suppose you would wind up having your shocks re-done if you got them for stock a-arms then changed your mind and added the +3...but changing springs and/or re-valving the same shock body is not that big of a deal...

I am not knocking any brand shocks... just saying I know what to expect and that the best Elkas on the rear do a great job and take a lot of abuse...have remote rezzies and the elites have both fast and slow compression adjustments...

The I-shock f-18s on the front would have piggies and both fast and slow compression adjustments...and they have longer shock bodies with more travel...that has a down side to it however...

The down side is that the shock body length allows for a much greater plunge angle...right at the max allowable for that CV joint...with if you have stock CVs that is not the best thing...however...the plunge angle would be fine with those shocks for Gorilla CV joints...which also have their good and bad points...

So I wasn't really saying that what I have is without question the best...just saying that I think it is very good...MIGHT just be the best...and something worth considering since it's really not speculation on my part that it a very good set up...

The 5+2 Wheels are the best ones to use...with no wheel spacers on the front period...

And you COULD do pretty well IMO with just that...good shocks...and 2" wheel spacers on the rear only...you don't get any real travel from the spacers like you do with the a-arms...but on the rear...the added stability far outweighs any negatives...

The front is opposite...you ONLY run spacers on the front with stock rims which have a negative offset...

1.5" spacers with stock rims is extremely close to the same offset as aftermarket 5+2...

If you measure those wheels carefully...you will see that the aftermarket 5+2 wheels set the wheel to vehicle hub mating surfaces very close the the center of the wheel itself...which mechanically is the best way to do it...

Also... the rhino for many years did NOT come from the factory with spacers front or rear...those came out much later...however...the negative wheel offset on the factory rims does NOT give the correct steering geometry for the stock a-arms and 25" or taller tires...

5+2 wheels with no spacers on the front make the steering geometry much more correct with 25/26" tall tires...

5+2 wheels with 2" spacers are the same offset as 2+5 wheels...but mechanically more sound...because the hub gets extended and remains in the center of the wheel with 5+2...whereas with 2+5 the wheel is levered back to the hub...the center drive of the axle no longer directly in the center of the wheel...

Same is true for factory rims...they are levered...in inward instead of outward...

So really good shocks set right with all the adjustments with 5+2 wheels on all four corners and 1.5" spacers on the rear really is not too bad at all and infinitely better than any wheel/spacer combo with base model shocks...

Bottom line for you is if you KNOW you don't want +6 a-arms then you really are going to start by deciding what wheels and tires you are going to use...then decide what shocks you are going to use...the shocks brand/features/body length you pick will be the same for stock a-arms as well as any +3 a-arms... the only thing you will do is have make sure you get the right springs and valving for whatever a-arm and wheel tire configuration you decide on...

ONE last thing... one of the biggest factors on surviving whoops at speed in a rhino with stock or +3 a-arms is having the rear rebound dialed in...if not the vehicle will either buck too much...or the shocks will "pack" ...

That is hard to get perfect by spring rate and valving if you don't have external reservoir with rebound adjustment...

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I am a fox sponsored rider which if i ran elkas they would not like it but i dont think they would kick me out either but i can get my fox for less than half the elkas.
Fox has hi and lo speed compression and rebound available also.
I do not want to run spacers,
so to get this right the 5/2 wheels are widening the sxs correct?
If i am going to run spacers or wider wheels id rather get a wider kit and do what the rzr guys do and get wheels that narrow the SXS,
the Rhino is 56.6 in wide I know they make some zero offset wheels, that rzr guys use and they narrow your SXS up by 3 inches, I know its what Rath Runs.

I want to run as long of arms I can and do something like that to narrow it up, as opposed to running +3 s and spacers,

quick ? I am bad with this does the 5-2 off set widen your quad, what offset comes factory on a rhino? for example my quad came with 3/2 offset wheels and i run +1 a-arms and 4-1 offset wheels and it is just a little wider than stock because wheels bring in my width,
So i want as much travel etc as I can but keep it narrow enough for the GNCC course but using some configurations and setup trick so to spek
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250rfmx View Post
I am a fox sponsored rider which if i ran elkas they would not like it but i dont think they would kick me out either but i can get my fox for less than half the elkas.
Fox has hi and lo speed compression and rebound available also.
I do not want to run spacers,
so to get this right the 5/2 wheels are widening the sxs correct?
If i am going to run spacers or wider wheels id rather get a wider kit and do what the rzr guys do and get wheels that narrow the SXS,
the Rhino is 56.6 in wide I know they make some zero offset wheels, that rzr guys use and they narrow your SXS up by 3 inches, I know its what Rath Runs.

I want to run as long of arms I can and do something like that to narrow it up, as opposed to running +3 s and spacers,

quick ? I am bad with this does the 5-2 off set widen your quad, what offset comes factory on a rhino? for example my quad came with 3/2 offset wheels and i run +1 a-arms and 4-1 offset wheels and it is just a little wider than stock because wheels bring in my width,
So i want as much travel etc as I can but keep it narrow enough for the GNCC course but using some configurations and setup trick so to spek
come ride with me i'll get you readywatch my vids
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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VW hot rod rhino, im definitely going to hit u up.
Ill check the vids, i rode in a regular razr and a razr s when they first came out and the S was alot more impressive but the trails we was on it was the fox shocks it had on it more than the longer, arms i can see for MX or rock climbing but i dont believe that just bc i want to keep mine Xc width it wont be fast on the trail like alot of people seem to think the wider the faster.
What company is yours, i thought it said site sponsor under your name
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 06:53 AM
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rath builds his own front rims and they run a douglas sector wheel that is technically a 4 piece wheel...

We run the open modified class (Gncc) in a 900xp that is a clone to daryls xp..And actually are sponsored by Rath Racings and Muzzy
you want to keep it as narrow as you can.. your only 2 inches narrower then our race prep xp.. Relocate your rad and oil cooler and invest in a better/stronger cage! there are sections in the national races that we would be much faster if we where narrower!


My thoughts are get a good shock, and get them dialed in on the stock a arms.. Then a good set of wheels.. I race my 686 rhino in the local mud/snow scramble.. and its not all about how much power your making or how wide you are.. Its all about finishing the race.. hell the last race i won against 800rzrs and a gncc preped kawi teryx.. that had full race shocks and 840 bbk.. he was fast but could not get the power to the ground.. you have to be fast in the woods! thats where i beat them larger cc machines..i run stock junk rhino shocks in the rear and a modified yfz450 shock up front.. and we ran half a mx track!

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