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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Spectator
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
Speedometer Reading High: Misc Problems

Hi guys. New here. I recently purchased an 04 660 with the indicator panel. I did the dash conversion with an ebay dash and sensor, pulled the relays. The wet clutch gasket was leaking and I replaced it. Over all it works....ish. I have the following problems, Any help would be great.


-The speedometer reads VERY high. Like showing 71mph when GPS reads 45. I have 28" Zilla tires.
-Neutral light "lags". Meaning sometimes it takes like 10 seconds to come on, or power cycle the key.
-4x4 doesnt always disengage. I can hear the solenoid when I operate the switch. I HAVE had it in 2wd since Ive owned it. But it does currently appear to be stuck.


Again, any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
paulturner911 is offline  
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
Spectator
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
Crickets huh?

Just to pump this.
Today I fixed a beadlock that was leaking and hooked up the battery isolator.

I’ve double checked the kph/mph....it reads mph and wildly high.

I drove it again today and the 4x4 disengaged.

Neutral light is still suspect and does not function as designed.

Any help would be great.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
Spectator
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 4
Changed the speed sensor. Fixed
Cleaned gear position sensor and adjusted rod. Fixed


Im having an issue with the brake lights..... Running always lights work, brake lights pop the fuse after a minute or two of adjusting the brake light switch. The running lights continue to work. Ive seen the brake lights work while under the hood making adjustments but the fuse always pops shortly after. The rhino does not have the factory brake lights, they look like trailer lights screwed in to the bed. There is a ground on the harness by the "trailer lights" but Im not sure its making ground.

The brake switch seems to have two wires behind the rubber boot that touch a metal rod when it is not depressed, once you push the pedal it pulls the spring and rod off the metal contact on the back of the switch then turning on the brake lights. Is this correct?

Any help in tracking down the short or issue would be great.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 09:41 AM
Slow Poke
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 38
You need at least a test light and a multi meter would be handy as well. Doubtful that the brake light switch "opens" to turn on the brake lights. Usually they are n/o or normally open and they close to complete the circuit. They can close the ground to complete it or close the hot side to complete it. A multi meter can confirm this. If it doesn't have OEM lights that could be the issue. If it was shorted the fuse would blow instantly. Blowing after they are on for a bit means the draw is exceeding the fuse capacity slightly. Are you sure you have the correct size fuse? If someone cobbled whatever light assemblies they could get on to it there is no telling what else isn't right with the electrical system. Download the service manual. Lot's of great info in it as well as wiring diagrams and how to test switches etc.
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