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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Rhino top speed & cdi box question

Does changing / upgrading the CDI box help with a higher "limiter / governor" top speed?

Don't need the higher speed for the trails. Do ride with a group that runs back country roads and at times want to cruise
35 - 50 mph for a few miles. My 2009 Rhino 700 maxes out about 38 - 40 mph and performs well. It's just a bit slow.
The dealer was telling me this can be done.

Also, does any RHino have a parking brake that actually works?
I just bought mine used a few days back. I would also be interested in purchasing a hard cab for it.


Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 10:21 AM
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I have an 09 700 parking brake works fine. A machined sheave my b a better route to go than an ecu(cdi)


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourtrax57 View Post
Does changing / upgrading the CDI box help with a higher "limiter / governor" top speed?

Don't need the higher speed for the trails. Do ride with a group that runs back country roads and at times want to cruise
35 - 50 mph for a few miles. My 2009 Rhino 700 maxes out about 38 - 40 mph and performs well. It's just a bit slow.
The dealer was telling me this can be done.

Also, does any RHino have a parking brake that actually works?
I just bought mine used a few days back. I would also be interested in purchasing a hard cab for it.


Thanks

I agree with Brian, a machined sheave would be my first choice - then if more performance is needed you can go step by step till you're happy with it. Check out Hunter Works or JBS for ideas. I've got a 2012 700 and I ended up doing the step up in performance till I reached my spending limit (LOL).


I've also dealt with the parking brake situation. First check and see if you still have meat left on the pads (they don't have a lot to begin with). Then research the "proper" way to adjust the PB - more to it than just adjusting the cable. If I remembered the process I'd tell ya...
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:25 AM
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If only 38 your clutch is dirty so might as well do a sheave, I wrote an tech article a long time ago about this very subject

https://www.hunterworks.com/msd_vs__sheave

Click that, it explains this very well, short version sheave is better option
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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PARKING BRAKE issue. ---RESOLVED___

Tore out the entire caliper unit. Disassembled and cleaned it up. Pads were worn down about half way.
Did finally figure out that by loosening the lock nut on the shaft for the actuator arm for / from the cable...
that you can compensate for the wear on the pads. As the pads wear you run out of "stroke" enough in the cable /
actuator arm. Loosen the locknut, turn the threaded shaft inward towards pads (r.h. thread) until you feel some tension
and then back it off slightly and tighten the locknut while holding the shaft with a pair of pliers so it doesn't turn while tightening
the lock nut. Some experimentation required for proper "stroke" of the parking brake lever / sans engagement.
Mine now works great. No smoldering pads. No rolling when "parked".
Can lock up the rear wheels while in motion with about 1/4 travel engagement of the parking brake lever. Also have new pads on order
but will likely not need them for awhile.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourtrax57 View Post
PARKING BRAKE issue. ---RESOLVED___

Tore out the entire caliper unit. Disassembled and cleaned it up. Pads were worn down about half way.
Did finally figure out that by loosening the lock nut on the shaft for the actuator arm for / from the cable...
that you can compensate for the wear on the pads. As the pads wear you run out of "stroke" enough in the cable /
actuator arm. Loosen the locknut, turn the threaded shaft inward towards pads (r.h. thread) until you feel some tension
and then back it off slightly and tighten the locknut while holding the shaft with a pair of pliers so it doesn't turn while tightening
the lock nut. Some experimentation required for proper "stroke" of the parking brake lever / sans engagement.
Mine now works great. No smoldering pads. No rolling when "parked".
Can lock up the rear wheels while in motion with about 1/4 travel engagement of the parking brake lever. Also have new pads on order
but will likely not need them for awhile.

YOU GOT IT - GOOD DEAL! That's the procedure I used a couple years back but just could not articulate it from my memory...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Sandbuster,
It only took 4 hours of "doodling" around with it. Sometimes you just have to pull something apart to figure it out.
Learning curve would be quicker next time around.................................
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by fourtrax57 View Post
Sandbuster,
It only took 4 hours of "doodling" around with it. Sometimes you just have to pull something apart to figure it out.
Learning curve would be quicker next time around.................................

Exactly what I went through - kept trying to adjust the cable but was going nowhere quick. I ended up making a little jig on the work bench (washer the same thickness as the rotor disk) and that worked well. After a couple of tries I could R&R the caliper in minutes then easily set it up on the bench.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:57 AM
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Rhino top speed & cdi box question

Go on youtube and look up 700 rhino e-brake mod


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09 700 4seater, Nflow remanned motor with reverse upgrade, web cam, boared throttle body, duel muzzys with spark arrestors, MSDfuel controller. JBS Extreme2 sheave, SDR full radius cage, SDR doors, SDR long travel with summer brothers axles, Fox remote resi shocks with clickers on rears.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Lee Rhino450 View Post
Go on youtube and look up 700 rhino e-brake mod


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Yup, been there done that but if you adjust it the proper way, as Fourtrax mentioned, you don't need to modify anything. The shaft that the cable lever attaches to is cammed to tighten up the pads - took me awhile to figure it out after doing the Youtube mod without great results. Just fined yourself a washer that matches the thickness of your brake rotor then you can adjust the caliper on the bench (washer goes between the pads). If you're not replacing the pads I guess you could make the adjustment without removing the caliper..
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