I have had a few issues on the 2006 Rhino 660 with what appears to be a vapor lock of some sort or losing fuel to the carb. I checked the vents and one thing I found which does not seem right is the roll over valve. When I took it out of the line air passes out to the vent easily as it should. When testing the rollover valve in the correct and up position I can not get air to flow freely all the time. I can shake the rollover valve around and finally be able to blow air freely through it but most times it is sticking closed. I think this might be part of my problems and would like to fix it.


My question is should the rollow over valve allow me to blow air freely through it in the upright position (consistently) or not? If it should, is there an effective way to clean the valve? I thought about taking it out all together to see if this helps solve some of my intermitten fuel problems as I am just using it around the farm anyway. I would just as soon not order a replacement roll over valve as the best price I have found is $60ish which seems ridiculous to me?


Anyone have any experience with a roll over valve issue? Thanks!

I have been on here since 09 never heard of anyone having a problem with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.rhi...s.html%3famp=1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian Lee. I actually found that thread prior to my post and read it but I can't get past the fact that when I took the ROV off I could not get air through it without shaking it around until I finally was about to get it to work. Once past the ROV the outside vent is open. Most of the time there was no air flow in the ROV indicating to me the ball was stuck? And what that posts describes as could happen is exactly what I experience at times. Rhino is running right along then all of the sudden it dies like it is starved for fuel. I have installed a marine primer bulb (to reduce the long starts after sitting a while) and the bulb is empty of fuel also so that told me it was not getting fuel as indicated. I can hand prime it with the bulb and it starts right up and runs for a while. Sometimes it never dies again that day but sometimes it does. The other indicator is that when this is going on I can remove the fuel cap and hear air rushing in so there is a vaccum lock somewhere. This keeps me pointing back to the ROV because that is the only thing I can see that is wrong to this point. I just can't think that if the ROV is upright you should be able to blow air through it? If not, then why would it not be blocking the air flow and causing the vaccum albeit intermittenly was my thinking?

Do u have the insulators installed on ur fuel lines. #12&13 just out of courousity
Has nothing to do with valve but may have something to do with the overall problem

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You know Brian that is a dang good question now that you mention it. I don't recall seeing any insulators on the fuel lines and I know I didn't put any on the new section when I added the primer bulb.... hmmmm. You could definitely be onto something here. Is the preferred method to insulate the entire fuel line especially if I have added fuel line and the primer bulb?

The only section that needs insulators is whats in the pic. When i had my 450 i added extra over the oem insulators. The oem ones should b white, mine were. What i added on top of oem ones is the same foam insulated material thats on your home a/c lines comming off the unit. Helped alot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am not really following the flow of those lines and more importantly I can't tell from the diagram what section of fuel line those insulators go? My assumption is from the fuel pump to the carburetor? Also, do I need OEM insulator for this or can I find something local that would serve the same purpose?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk