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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Help...my Rhino is failing in multiple ways...

Hello, and thanks to all who read this and lend an opinion to me, I greatly appreciate it. To be upfront, I'm a very novice person when it comes to mechanical stuff, and I figured the best way to learn was to stop relying so much on paying local shops and start digging in on my own, cautiously of course. I do have a copy of the service manual, it's a 2006 Rhino 660.

I bought a 2006 Rhino 660 from my cousin who sold it to me for very cheap because of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I took it to a local repair shop who had high reviews and a good rep among known people, he said I had to have the top end rebuilt. He rebuilt the top end and fitted it with a new Wiseco piston, and had it up and running for me when I took it back after 2600 USD, this also covered him cleaning the carb, cleaning the "CVT" as he put it, new battery, new tires (ITP Mudlite XL).

The second day of driving since the rebuild, I noticed that the electrical fuel pump my cousin had installed failed, I replaced the pump and all was working again. I used this pump:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6101050

I started driving it for a good couple days around the area and my throttle cable snapped at the end of the gas pedal, instead of re-soldering it, I just spent the 30 bucks and got a new one. I installed the new cable, and had to really mess with the throttle body a lot to get the cable in there. Apparently, functioning this throttle body a lot put a lot of fuel into the system and when I started it, the motor backfired and blew off my intake boot. I freaked out and thought I killed her, but a mechanic I know said it happens often and just reclamp it back onto the intake manifold. Did that, and started driving it around some local trails and having a blast. However, I still notice a gasoline smell whenever the machine is garaged at my house, and when I go back out to fire it up again there is still that smell. Mechanic suggested my float level could be off with the carb.

Then the next issue has reared it's ugly head, while driving I noticed my temp light came on, I drove it about another 1/4 mile and it was still on. I understand now that I broke a cardinal rule in the mechanical world, and yes....next time I see the light I will kill the motor right away and let it cool for a minimum 30 minutes, it's hot here in the Houston area. This was dumb of me, but not the dumbest thing I did...keep reading :(

Perhaps the biggest mistake of them all here, was the fact that after I had cut the motor off for about 10 minutes, we were burning up in the 95 degree weather and I was only a 1/2 mile from my home. I fired it back up and drove home, and had a noticeable loss of power on the way, I would gas the motor all the way and only got about 25% power the whole trip home, I drove it for about 5-10 minutes back to my house and it really started struggling at that point. I noticed that I couldn't even get it up the driveway, so my friend and I had to put it in neutral to push it up my driveway into my garage. I haven't touched it since.

After researching with Google, I'm terrified that perhaps I blew the head or cracked the block, but hopefully that isn't the case. My current plan is to bleed/burp the radiator and refill with coolant, then pressure test to look for leaks in the cooling system. I am also going to change the oil, I was told to check the dipstick to see if water had mixed with the oil. My fan is coming on also, but I was also told to clean the radiator itself as it may be blocked by gunk/mud/dirt/debris.

Anybody have any recommendations or things I should check? I also noticed that I am having the "R" light (reverse indicator light) blink on and off on me whenever this overheat issue happens. Think the "top end rebuild" shop is to blame here?

Thanks again for everybody's help and advice, it is greatly appreciated before I take on this project!
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 11:18 AM
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look on ur cylender and see if u have this. On my 700 its an indicator to see if ur eng got too hot. Its like a brass plug and its black. I overheated once and nflow the company that rebuilt my motor said if that plug isent discolored it dident get too hot. Your motor may not have this


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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 01:51 PM
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Welcome to the site sorry to read the story, but you need to do some checking like you said, milkie white oil and a carb float problem. I'm not a mechanic either, so you have a ton of searching on here.

FLOYD, SANDI & Sadie is the co-pilot. 05 660, 3000# VENOM WINCH, LED headlight Mod, 12' led light bar RZR seats, Resi shocks, SunF 26 X 9r X 12, CUSTOM PAINT(the rescue chopper can find us know)

"REMEMBER, SPEED KILLS, BUT IT WILL BE THE ONLY TIME YOU'LL DIE LAUGHING"
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, took the carb apart tonight with the help of a YouTube video, the needle valve that is functioned by the float and the little metal tang wouldn't move at all when I moved the float up and down, bad sign number one. Rest of carb was clean according to all the places to check in the video (bowl, jets, etc), the shop that worked on it said they cleaned it, I fear they didn't set the float properly.

Haven't checked oil yet, will do again tomorrow.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 08:48 AM
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One of Life's little lessons..

Most of us have been where you are now - so don't feel alone. It sounds possibly that your cousin did not maintain the Rhino as good as he could have and you are experiencing the consequences of that. Since you state you are not much of a mechanic this machine will be your teacher - might be a little expensive but what education isn't?


Proceed with your troubleshooting as you described. How does the oil look - milky? You got a problem for sure. If oil appears okay definitely change it. Pull the plug - any moisture there? With plug removed disconnect ignition and crank it over - nothing should come out of that hole but air & fuel vapor. If okay, install plug. Before you get too deep into swapping parts (and if it runs), start it up and listen for noises that are above and beyond what you're used to hearing. If everything appears to be normal (no unusual noises, leaks, or odors), take it around the block to see if power is what you're used to.


Let us know the outcome.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
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So I changed the oil last night, all looked well. Flushed the radiator after finding it was bone dry, probably the cause of my overheat issue. Also, people who rebuilt it didn’t put the engine fan housing on but doubt that affected temperature.

Cranked it up and re-topped radiator and reservoir, all ran well. Also adjusted carb float according to service manual specs.

Now the problem is revving it in gear, it rev limits repeatedly but only moves 5-10 miles an hour at best. Assuming something with the CVT. Mechanic friend said probably have oil on the belt or maybe a bolt backed out or something, opinions? Advice?

Thanks for the input so far folks, greatly appreciated.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 02:08 PM
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You may have a flopped weight in the cv, pull the cover and see what the belt is doing when reved up in neutral.

FLOYD, SANDI & Sadie is the co-pilot. 05 660, 3000# VENOM WINCH, LED headlight Mod, 12' led light bar RZR seats, Resi shocks, SunF 26 X 9r X 12, CUSTOM PAINT(the rescue chopper can find us know)

"REMEMBER, SPEED KILLS, BUT IT WILL BE THE ONLY TIME YOU'LL DIE LAUGHING"
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a video of it I put on YouTube, this is in neutral and revved to the max

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 05:50 PM
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The weights and belt look great, do you have a different CDI you can try? It hits the rev limiter under load in gear, maybe the wet clutch.

FLOYD, SANDI & Sadie is the co-pilot. 05 660, 3000# VENOM WINCH, LED headlight Mod, 12' led light bar RZR seats, Resi shocks, SunF 26 X 9r X 12, CUSTOM PAINT(the rescue chopper can find us know)

"REMEMBER, SPEED KILLS, BUT IT WILL BE THE ONLY TIME YOU'LL DIE LAUGHING"
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 05:55 PM
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Help...my Rhino is failing in multiple ways...

What is that ratteling/grinding noise i hear when u let off it. Never really paid attention to mine when i do that but i think i would have remembered that noise


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09 700 4seater, Nflow remanned motor with reverse upgrade, web cam, boared throttle body, duel muzzys with spark arrestors, MSDfuel controller. JBS Extreme2 sheave, SDR full radius cage, SDR doors, SDR long travel with summer brothers axles, Fox remote resi shocks with clickers on rears.
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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I have no clue what that noise is, maybe the problem causing slow speeds? I don’t even know what a CDI is, something to do with the computer? I did see a video on how to reset a rhino computer, would that help? This only started happening after the overheating episode.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 06:45 PM
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Help...my Rhino is failing in multiple ways...

To me thats sounds like a oneway bearing, cdi https://www.elprocus.com/capacitor-d...ystem-working/

Not sure about reseting computer
Oneway bearing is ur engine brakeing, its sits behind ur wet clutch inside the clutch houseing
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Last edited by Brian Lee Rhino450; 06-14-2018 at 06:53 PM.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 08:21 PM
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CDI is the computer, have never heard of resetting one.

FLOYD, SANDI & Sadie is the co-pilot. 05 660, 3000# VENOM WINCH, LED headlight Mod, 12' led light bar RZR seats, Resi shocks, SunF 26 X 9r X 12, CUSTOM PAINT(the rescue chopper can find us know)

"REMEMBER, SPEED KILLS, BUT IT WILL BE THE ONLY TIME YOU'LL DIE LAUGHING"
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting, I wonder if this might be the issue, because I keep seeing my "R" light (reverse indicator) blinking...

Rhino 660 Reverse Sensor Problem
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 02:54 AM
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Help...my Rhino is failing in multiple ways...

It will limit you at 25mph, u will b fine up to 25mph. Since u said u r only getting 10mph u have another problem
But i would still check the wire to stop the light from coming on
Mine came on for months but it never limited my speed
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09 700 4seater, Nflow remanned motor with reverse upgrade, web cam, boared throttle body, duel muzzys with spark arrestors, MSDfuel controller. JBS Extreme2 sheave, SDR full radius cage, SDR doors, SDR long travel with summer brothers axles, Fox remote resi shocks with clickers on rears.

Last edited by Brian Lee Rhino450; 06-15-2018 at 04:59 AM.
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