machined sheave or not? - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
CVT, Sheaves and Wet Clutch A place to discuss troubleshooting and modifications.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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machined sheave or not?

Thinking about a Hunter Works machined sheave and curious if anyone has any regrets about a machined sheave (any brand) or for some reason switched back to the stock one. Thanx

2013 Rhino- Trail Armor UHMW Skids/ Ricochet A Arm protectors/ Seizmik Side View mirrors/ EMP 1/2 Lexan Windshield/ Brinkenterprise floor/fenderwell guards. as of 06/27/2014
Update 4/20/2015- Maier Carbon Fiber (look) fender flares/ Warn winch 4k lbs./ Warn Snow Plow mount and snow plow with bucket conversion/ 10/30/2015- Line-X Pro Grade bed liner.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 06:02 AM
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My opinion is jaded of course but there is no downside to our machined sheave in a rhino except your pocket book is lighter

Everything is improved, from low to top end and everything in between.


Rhino sheaves have just been bullet proof for a long time, been doing them since 2006
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 07:05 AM
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I have a 2013 700 and installed the Hunter sheave about 3 weeks ago. My top speed increased from 38 to 50 mph. I am pleased with the sheave so far. While I was installing the sheave I installed the slippery washes and installed the Hunter slugs in the wet clutch. I canít say if the washers improved anything but the idea seemed logical. I have read several members of this site recommend the slug kit To increase wet clutch life and I hope it works but I think it made mine harder to shift at times.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 09:17 PM
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Oldshoe- from my experience the number one cause of shifting difficulties is the idle being too high, causes the wet clutch to want to engage. Slugs do not make the clutch grab at a lower rpm at correct idle, unless you had some different clutch springs in it. #2 is linkage being out of adjustment, just a little bit can matter.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 09:04 AM
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Yes itís likely the idle speed with the extra weight from the slugs. I didnít have the problem until I slugged it. Unfortunately the 700 doesnít have an idle adjustment so Iíll have to take it to a dealer or remove the slugs.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 09:09 AM
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You can set your own throttle position sensor if idle is off.

I just don't hear about slugs causing this issue except when idle is up
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 09:13 AM
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Thanks, can you explain how to adjust it?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 09:17 AM
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Thanks, can you explain how to adjust it?
Not really, well not accurately, you need a service manual. Download one at www.tradebit.com for under $10, there is a procedure

The jest is, attach a DC multimeter to two of threee wires, has to be right ones and I forget colors on that. Then loosen the tamper proof screws so you need a tamper proof hex tool, barely loosen them and get the voltage with key on and engine off to equal I think it was .73 dc volts or .69 but that is what the service manual will tell you, tells color or wires and voltage

maybe someone has it and can take a pic and post here, I no longer have this manual, computer crashed and lost it.

I used wire piercing leads on my fluke meter,

Todd
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by krackerjax View Post
Thinking about a Hunter Works machined sheave and curious if anyone has any regrets about a machined sheave (any brand) or for some reason switched back to the stock one. Thanx
I installed a Hunter Works grease less sheave with 14oz weights (recommended by Todd), a slug kit and slippery washers on my secondary spring in my bone stock 2005 660. Having done nothing else except clean and re-grease the secondary slide hub while I had it apart, my rev limiter hit at 44 mph where as before it was 42. Again, no other modifications. While I haven't driven it enough to really tell, like Todd says, I don't think there is a downside. It does seem to start off from a dead stop somewhat easier, if that's the correct word.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by krackerjax View Post
Thinking about a Hunter Works machined sheave and curious if anyone has any regrets about a machined sheave (any brand) or for some reason switched back to the stock one. Thanx
I installed a Hunter Works grease less sheave with 14oz weights (recommended by Todd), a slug kit and slippery washers on my secondary spring in my bone stock 2005 660. Having done nothing else except clean and re-grease the secondary slide hub while I had it apart, my rev limiter hit at 44 mph where as before it was 42. Again, no other modifications. While I haven't driven it enough to really tell, like Todd says, I don't think there is a downside. It does seem to start off from a dead stop somewhat easier, if that's the correct word.
One thing I see wrong here, I never recommend 14gr weights for a stock vehicle with stock tires, I supposed it had 30" tires maybe.

You can't go faster than 44 with a CDI in a rhino 660.

You can't get the high end side until you do the CDI

Todd
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 08:15 AM
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What do you mean by "do the cdi" do you elude to just change it to an after market one. I am really interested if will increase performance. Thanks, Dave

Educated and still a truck driver!!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottH View Post
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Originally Posted by krackerjax View Post
Thinking about a Hunter Works machined sheave and curious if anyone has any regrets about a machined sheave (any brand) or for some reason switched back to the stock one. Thanx
I installed a Hunter Works grease less sheave with 14oz weights (recommended by Todd), a slug kit and slippery washers on my secondary spring in my bone stock 2005 660. Having done nothing else except clean and re-grease the secondary slide hub while I had it apart, my rev limiter hit at 44 mph where as before it was 42. Again, no other modifications. While I haven't driven it enough to really tell, like Todd says, I don't think there is a downside. It does seem to start off from a dead stop somewhat easier, if that's the correct word.
One thing I see wrong here, I never recommend 14gr weights for a stock vehicle with stock tires, I supposed it had 30" tires maybe.

You can't go faster than 44 with a CDI in a rhino 660.

You can't get the high end side until you do the CDI

Todd

Todd, I apologize, I quoted the weight ounces by memory but I was pretty certain they were 14s. Anyway, this 660 has stock sized tires and I'm sure we discussed that when I was purchasing the kit. I can double check the invoice later to see what you actually shipped.

With regard to the increase in MPH. I was only stating that my rev limiter (stock CDI) allowed me to go 44 with your set-up installed where before I could only get 42. I realize if I want more than 44 MPH I need to install an aftermarket CDI.

Hope that clears things up!
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