Help on Stator & Regulator - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Help on Stator & Regulator

Problem: 2008 Rhino 700. Rhino Quits while running. We have a sprayer in the back with a pump that runs off the battery. I have read many threads and posts about stators and regulators. After replacing the battery, testing the regulator and checking the voltage, things are adding up to be the stator. I have a few more things to test to completely verify. However, …..
Question 1: Do you guys have any diagrams/videos of how to replace the stator? I just started at a county weed control agency and I have never dealt with this kind of stuff. Hope this is not too silly to ask for, but I don’t want to get started and be stumped part way through.
Question 2: Sense I have already ordered the stator and the gaskets. Would it be wise to get a regulator and replace that too? Just wondering if that would be the next thing to go out on the Rhino.
Question 3: A regulator is a rectifier on a rhino correct?? I appreciate your time and patience for helping a newby on this kind of stuff. J StonerT
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 11:44 AM
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I'm not sure if the 700 and the 660 are the same, but you can find info/videos/pics of the 660 proceedure on the internet. On my 2005 660 it was fairly easy to do after draining the oil and the coolant. I would not order a regulator/rectifier unless you are sure it's bad. The stator develops an A.C. voltage that it feeds to the rectifier/regulator. The rectifier portion converts the A.C. to D.C. and the regulator portion holds the D.C. to approximately 14 volts. You may want to upgrade and add a second battery since you are running a sprayer off of the stock system. The charging systems on these things are not that stout. You should also check this site for information on upgrading your grounds.
SteveS has written extensively about it and has shared much valuable information on this site. I recommend that you read his articles. Good Luck!!!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 11:53 AM
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Also check this site for a link to a free 700 shop manual download. It will come in real handy and may answer some of your questions. Good luck!!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TBOMB View Post
I'm not sure if the 700 and the 660 are the same, but you can find info/videos/pics of the 660 proceedure on the internet. On my 2005 660 it was fairly easy to do after draining the oil and the coolant. I would not order a regulator/rectifier unless you are sure it's bad. The stator develops an A.C. voltage that it feeds to the rectifier/regulator. The rectifier portion converts the A.C. to D.C. and the regulator portion holds the D.C. to approximately 14 volts. You may want to upgrade and add a second battery since you are running a sprayer off of the stock system. The charging systems on these things are not that stout. You should also check this site for information on upgrading your grounds.
SteveS has written extensively about it and has shared much valuable information on this site. I recommend that you read his articles. Good Luck!!!
X2

2004 Rhino 660
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 12:48 PM
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I've been wrenching for 40+ years and cannot locate the stator on my 06 450. Any help, please?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 02:55 PM
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Davejt,
Your stator is on the passenger side of the engine. It is in the cover that has the water pump in it. Check different parts suppliers and you will find illustrated parts breakdowns and prices on their sites. Also check this site for an available shop manual that can be downloaded for free. It will help. It's not a hard job to accomplish, but it is kind of messy. Good luck!!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 05:00 AM
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Thanks a bunch! Will get to it right away.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 03:58 PM
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I volt and ohm'd checked every inch of my stator and it was showing bad but still good. turned out it was my fuel pump.... did you check you fuel pressure?

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 04:34 AM
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I'll put that on the list. It just wouldn't start, crank or anything one day out of the blue. Battery is good. Replaced solenoid. Unless charger is hooked up it will only lightly click at solenoid. Getting frustrated. Thanks for your idea.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 05:51 AM
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davejt,
You should check your ground thoroughly. There is a small wire pigtailed into the negative battery connector that has a bullet type connector where it goes into the wiring harness. This is the source of a lot of problems. Check this site for grounding upgrade threads posted by SteveS. The stock grounding system is weak and can cause a bunch of problems. Good luck!!
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 05:20 PM
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pulse pick up coil in stator is out of range, check OHMs on coil, get new coil or hole stator from ricky stator. mine did the stall and start back up after a wile several times till I got 30 miles out in BF west va. and died for good. easy to check with OHM meter, get range from book or ricky stator.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by davejt View Post
I'll put that on the list. It just wouldn't start, crank or anything one day out of the blue. Battery is good. Replaced solenoid. Unless charger is hooked up it will only lightly click at solenoid. Getting frustrated. Thanks for your idea.
#1 task before troubleshooting any electrical stuff is to make sure the battery is decent and fully charged. A weak battery will lead you off on the primrose path during your troubleshooting. A fully charged battery will measure out at 12.7 Volts measured across the battery terminals. Engine off and key off, the battery having sat at rest for at least 15 minutes or more. 12.0 Volts is a half dead battery. If the battery is weak, use a decent wall charger, not one of those 'battery maintainer' types. They are intended only to make up for the leakage of the battery while it is sitting there idle for long periods of time.

Do not expect to crank and start the machine with a weak battery with a charger hooked up. That is, unless the charger is capable of putting out 50 to 75 Amps, in order to keep up with the starter motor draw.

If there is any doubt, take it to a battery store and have it load tested. They will charge the battery as best they can and then draw a heavy current (appropriate for the size of the battery) while measuring the droop in battery voltage. If the droop is excessive, then it needs to be replaced.

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