HELP!!!! No spark on 05 660 Rhino - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
Tutorials How To Guides for Modifications, Bolt-Ons, Maintenance and Troubleshooting - Pictures make it better!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
Couch Potato
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9
HELP!!!! No spark on 05 660 Rhino

I replaced the Coil after it tested bad and still no spark? Where to next CDI? Any help would be great. Anyway to test the cdi to see if its bad? Thanks
jlcrss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 03:01 PM
Super Charged
 
Stuntmanmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Crestview,FL
Posts: 895
There's no test for the cdi, other than replacement. Connect a volt meter to the two wires going to it, set meter on a/c voltage,spin over engine and see if meter shows voltage intermittently to the coil. If you have voltage ohm out the spark plug wire to coil wire, should have atleast 5,000 ohms if so check cap and replace spark plug.

05 Stroked 720cc. 09 700 ... Sheave,OD Sliders.http://youtu.be/4vM2BLqDKVshttps://youtu.be/hVR0R-wSxKY
Stuntmanmike is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 05:25 PM
Weekender
 
RONNIERHINO06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: goldvein va.
Posts: 118
pulse pick up coil in alt. ohm the alt. wire and u will see its out of range , it was hard to start when cold and stalled out when hot

2006 660 SE, 25" Big Horns, ITP chrome wheels, P51 shocks, Hunter Works cdi, Dyno Jet carb kit, 40 pilot,1 1/2 air screw, check valve on fuel pickup line in gas tank (keeps fuel line full), UNI air filter, Warn 3.0 winch with synth. line, 2 batterys (PC 925 under seat),Lonestar front frame /diff. brace, raer diff. brace, rad. guard, center console / cup holder, under hood storage box, over head storage, 35W roof lites, 35w rear work lites, 35w back up lite, Harden fuel gauge, horn, alum. roof
RONNIERHINO06 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-06-2012, 05:49 AM
Super Charged
 
Stuntmanmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Crestview,FL
Posts: 895
The 3 white wires are the stator wires, you need to check the twin wire connector right next to them, Set volt meter on ohms, spin motor amd see if pick up coil opens and closes very quickly. The white wires should ohm the same between all 3 wires, And each wire ohm to ground, You should NOT get any reading to ground, that means shorted stator.

05 Stroked 720cc. 09 700 ... Sheave,OD Sliders.http://youtu.be/4vM2BLqDKVshttps://youtu.be/hVR0R-wSxKY
Stuntmanmike is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 06:56 AM
Captain Zoom Sand Pirate
 
Zoomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 3,407
Send a message via MSN to Zoomer
Wrench

I just did the dance with the stator/ignition trigger. My rhino was running 50 mph down a dirt road and just quit, no spark. I swapped inition boxes, no help. I swapped out the coil with a known good, no help. I checked the resistance at the plug coming from the stator and mine was not even close to spec, it read 0, zero, nada. I found just the trigger pickup on ebay from Ricky Stator and had it delivered to my front door for $47. Mush cheaper than the whole stor assembly. I soldered it in and have ignition again. The sevice manual has the spec on what the resistance should be at the stator plug and what it should be on the coil as well. The easiest test for the ignition box is swapping for a known good one.

Arrrrrrrrrr we dunin yet
K&N, ProComm CDI, Stainless Exhaust tip, KMS sheave, EPI Clutch kit, Lonestar MTS kit w/ Bilsteins, Gear-One axles, rack and billet goodies, B&A cage
Zoomer is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 10:01 AM
Supernova
 
kingck5's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pomona Cali.
Posts: 2,138
would this cause an intermittent no spark issue

KINGSLINES .....................
kingck5 is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 10:13 AM
Engineer
 
Tinken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: AZ/CA
Posts: 7,966
Garage
It could be any of those things. I would start at the plug first. If you have a spare cdi, you can always swap it in. Sometimes it's a loose connection. My rhino would miss and it turned out to be the carburetor. If it is the stator, you can buy just the pickup coil, for yours it will be a 500 ohm.

Sheave Mods,ShimMod SlipperyWashers WetClutch Manuals: 450, 660, 700.

“Quality is never an accident, it is always the result of intelligent effort.”
Tinken is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 10:34 AM
Supernova
 
kingck5's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pomona Cali.
Posts: 2,138
Might need to look into buying one of those, ive already tried a stock coil and stock cdi starts fine then install my aftermarket dynatek cdi after a while no spark its a brand new cdi that they sent me after they tested my last one and failed internally im guessing that after it gets hot it acts up ****s pissing me off. so any input would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

KINGSLINES .....................

Last edited by kingck5; 01-12-2016 at 10:44 AM.
kingck5 is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:14 AM
Engineer
 
Tinken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: AZ/CA
Posts: 7,966
Garage
It sounds like the cdi to me. You do know that the Dynatek is just a sticker over a Procomm cdi right? Not that really helps. I'd contact Dynatek and let them know you are having issues with the new one, maybe they will let you upgrade to a programmable version of what you have.

Personally, if I wasn't using a tachometer, I would use the trifire cdi, I think they are more reliable.

Sheave Mods,ShimMod SlipperyWashers WetClutch Manuals: 450, 660, 700.

“Quality is never an accident, it is always the result of intelligent effort.”
Tinken is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:17 AM
Supernova
 
kingck5's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pomona Cali.
Posts: 2,138
HELP!!!!  No spark on 05 660 Rhino-uploadfromtaptalk1452626189033.jpg I Run this one and

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

KINGSLINES .....................
kingck5 is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:22 AM
Engineer
 
Tinken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: AZ/CA
Posts: 7,966
Garage
I meant a usb programmable device.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	s-l1600.jpg
Views:	805
Size:	44.0 KB
ID:	37129  

Sheave Mods,ShimMod SlipperyWashers WetClutch Manuals: 450, 660, 700.

“Quality is never an accident, it is always the result of intelligent effort.”
Tinken is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:27 AM
Supernova
 
kingck5's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pomona Cali.
Posts: 2,138
Yeah im going to email them again but just wanna check the other ends before i hit them up being this ones brand new don't want to jump the Gun yet. it starts with this new one just after warming up then no spark

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

KINGSLINES .....................
kingck5 is offline  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:32 AM
Engineer
 
Tinken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: AZ/CA
Posts: 7,966
Garage
And when you put the stock cdi back in, it runs fine?

Sheave Mods,ShimMod SlipperyWashers WetClutch Manuals: 450, 660, 700.

“Quality is never an accident, it is always the result of intelligent effort.”
Tinken is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:36 AM
Supernova
 
kingck5's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pomona Cali.
Posts: 2,138
It starts it,it has spark then i plug in the dynatek cdi and it starts also so im not sure if its cdi or like a crank sensor issue as it warms up it starts to act up

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

KINGSLINES .....................
kingck5 is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 04:22 AM
Official Site Vendor
 
Hunterworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinken View Post
It sounds like the cdi to me. You do know that the Dynatek is just a sticker over a Procomm cdi right? Not that really helps. I'd contact Dynatek and let them know you are having issues with the new one, maybe they will let you upgrade to a programmable version of what you have.

Personally, if I wasn't using a tachometer, I would use the trifire cdi, I think they are more reliable.
A dynatek is not a procomm unit unless something has changed in the last year or so.

They operate much different, the procomm unit is not good at all.


Todd
Hunterworks is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net > Technical > Tutorials

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome