Front Brakes - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Front Brakes

I looked around and didn't really see any instructions on how to change the front brake pads on the Rhino. It make be elementary to most, and once I got in there, it really is. Thought I'd post about it for anyone else who may be looking for a how to.

Tools you'll need:

A floor jack
Jack stands
11/16" socket and your choice of driver
12mm socket
Allen wrench (didn't notice the size, but I think it was a 1/4")
1 or 2 large C-clamps
Flat screwdriver
Can of brake fluid (optional)
Shop rags
Compressed air or nylon bristle brush
Shop light or flashlight
Emry cloth or fine sand paper
Light oil or grease

Start by loosening the front lug nuts on which ever side you start on (usually best to start away from the master cylinder)
Raise the Rhino and support with jack stand (i leave the jack in place for extra support).
Remove the lugnuts and place in a safe place along with the front wheel.
Look at the back of the spindle and you will see a 12mm (head) bolt at the top of the caliper and one at the bottom. Remove these bolts and set aside. Remove the caliber from the spindle and gently turn it so you can see the inboard side (rear). You will notice two countersank allen bolts. Loosen and remove the bolts. If yours are like mine, they will require some effort to remove from the caliper. It helps to use the flat screwdriver to push the pads towards the rear of the caliper as there is a spring at the back of the caliper. If that doesn't work, a thin shaft screwdriver or other tool can be used to GENTLY tap the pins out. Mine were in horrible shape so i used some light sand paper to slick them out. I applied a light oil to them when I was done before reinstalling them. I think you could use a thin layer of grease as well, just don't over do it. Use a C-clamp and the old pad to drive the pistons back into the caliper. I worked side to side with even pressure until they were seated completely. Install the new pads one at a time, place the inboard pad in the housing and start the pins back in one at a time. Don't insert them too far as you will have to install the outboard pad too. Once you have them both in, start the caliper pins and tighten. Hang the caliper back on the spindle and reinstall the caliper bolts and tighten. Replace the wheel and snug the lugs. Once the Rhino is back on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to Yamaha's specified torque for your wheels (steel or alloy). Repeat the process for the opposite side. Once you are done, press the brake pedal down, it will probably go to the floor or near it. Dont worry! Pump it about 8 times you will get full pressure back. When you are done, check your master cylinder fluid level. Adjust if needed. Go for a slow test drive in a safe area and test your brakes.

Alternatively, you can choose to bleed your brakes when you are done, but if you don't introduce air into the system, you shouldn't need to.

It took me longer to type this that it did to remove and replace one side!

Hope this helps someone who isn't sure, if you still aren't sure, consult a professional!

2006 660 SE, 3" Extreme Lift, 26" XTR's, Seizmik CDI
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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2006 660 SE, 3" Extreme Lift, 26" XTR's, Seizmik CDI
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Now I know why it was squealing so bad! The PO said he replaced the rear pads but didn't replace the fronts... no idea why since they do 75% of the work. The brakes were actually dragging so bad that when I lifted of the gas, it stopped almost immediately. Got my pads at J&M locally, $54 out the door with tax. OEM's were $39/side.

2006 660 SE, 3" Extreme Lift, 26" XTR's, Seizmik CDI
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 10:28 AM
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i know this
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCSOMike View Post
Now I know why it was squealing so bad! The PO said he replaced the rear pads but didn't replace the fronts... no idea why since they do 75% of the work. The brakes were actually dragging so bad that when I lifted of the gas, it stopped almost immediately. Got my pads at J&M locally, $54 out the door with tax. OEM's were $39/side.
i know this thread is old but are the back just as easy to do?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 06:17 PM
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Yes. The only part that can give you headaches is loosening the allen bolts. Using a hex head socket and ratchet is the best way, so it doesn't twist sideways and strip the inside of the hex bolt.

Only thing different is that the rear caliper is a single piston that needs to be turned clockwise in order for it to go back into the caliper.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 07:01 PM
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I have oem for 25.00 per wheel
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 08:15 PM
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Are the ones on rmatv that are on close-out for $9.95 worth a try?



2006 Rhino SE
HCR/FOX/KING/GORILLA/FMF/K&N/DYNA/DWT DOONZ
727r SE
D7 Turbo
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 07:48 AM
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On the average at what mileage do you need to change the front ones?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 07:55 AM
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we have to every 1500 miles
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 09:26 AM
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Just did a set on a rhino that has 4400 miles on the original pads. Fronts were half way thru the metal pad backing. Rears were still 50%.

I like the instructions but I'd add lock tight to the pins and bolts when assembling it. Also I don't have a c clamp so I just use a large screwdriver while the pads are still in there to spread them. On the fronts that is. The pins can be loosened while the caliper is still bolted to the knuckle also.
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