How to adjust valves on a 660 - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-07-2009, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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How to adjust valves on a 660

Any help ??
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 04:12 AM
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Wrench

what year? I have instructions for 06'- pretty easy to do. Send me an e-mail to bruhaun@yahoo.com and I'll send to you- kb
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 07:36 AM
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Just like he said not that hard just takes a little time.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 07:49 AM
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Yamaha Rhino Service & Repair Manual

Heres a copy of the factory service manual. This will show you how do to just about everything.

2007 Rhino 660
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 07:52 AM
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This is what I did. Of course covers off and remove spark plug and valve adjust covers. You can reach the 4 bolts that hold the plastic fan cover on (10mm). Then a plastic plug for the timing marks. Use a quarter to remove the plug.

I didn't remove the tank or the bed. I did however remove the CVT pipe that comes from the front of the engine to above the head of the motor. Easy to get off, sucks to get back on.

I stuck a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and rotated the nut next to timing hole counter-clockwise. I don't remember the size of the nut. Hold the screwdriver that's in the spark plug hole and let in move in and out with the piston freely (don't let it bind). Watch the valves and when the piston is coming up on the power stroke watch as the screwdriver nears TCD. Shine a light in the timing marks hole. Mine had 3 dashes and I stopped at the center one. There's a slot in the side of the timing plug hole that should line up with the marks.

I used a .005" and .007" gauge for the intake and a .007" and .009" for the exhaust. I bent my gauges about a 1/4 inch from the end at a 45 degree angle. Mine would snap if bent with a tool so I bent with fingers to get a gradual curve. The .005" is the measurement for intake and the .007" is a no go gauge. Same with the exhaust but .007" is the measurement and .009" is a no go gauge.

The intake is easy. Do a initial check and of course if you don't have to adjust, then don't. If adjust, first break loose the nuts and then snug them. Next put a wrench over the nut and hold the square with small needle nose pliers. I loosened the nut while holding the adjustment then move the adjustment bolt then re-snug the nut. I kept this up until I had them good and then tightened the nut good but didn't check the torque spec. The .005" should be able to go in and feel like normal shim type resistance and the .007" shouldn't fit in.

For the rears I went from the passenger side and held the 10mm in the left hand. A long 10mm would work great I think. I held it under the frame and then held the adjust screw with the right hand and did the same type of adjustment. Loosen the nut move the screw and re-snug the nut.

After that I did my adjust and then went through several revolution of the motor and realigned TCD and then recheck. I checked the valves 3 times after final adjust this way and when I was satisfied they were the same spot each time, I decided I was done and the engine did run great.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 08:39 AM
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just adjusted my valves on my660 runs good but seems a little noisey any sugestions thanks mick
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 08:48 AM
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They sound loose. You shouldn't hear the valve noise.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 10:04 AM
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checked manual .005 on intake .007 on exhaust a little loose used manual specs and sound much better thanks
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 02:17 PM
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Just remember--a tight valve (too tight) will burn quickly, due to inability to transfer head from the valve face to the cyl. head.

Due to this, it's always better to have the valve a bit loose than a bit too tight.....

AZ Jeff
2008 450cc Trail Crawler
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-15-2010, 10:19 AM
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So newbie here. I know just enough to be dangerous. I was adjusting my valves and getting lots of noise when done. I know I did them to spec. The manual list 10-15 thousands intake and 15-20 thousands for exhaust.
The one thing not mentioned is that you cannot adjust both valves at the same time.You need to adjust intake valves when they are not moving then rotate crank until exhaust valves are not moving.

I, probably like some here was adjusting the valves at TDC without rotating crank.

Am I correct? Someone please chime in.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 03:14 PM
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how do I adjust valves on 2004 Yamaha rhino 660
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasco View Post
So newbie here. I know just enough to be dangerous. I was adjusting my valves and getting lots of noise when done. I know I did them to spec. The manual list 10-15 thousands intake and 15-20 thousands for exhaust.
The one thing not mentioned is that you cannot adjust both valves at the same time.You need to adjust intake valves when they are not moving then rotate crank until exhaust valves are not moving.

I, probably like some here was adjusting the valves at TDC without rotating crank.

Am I correct? Someone please chime in.
First thing is .015 and .020 is way too much, you should be adjusting them in the range of .003" intake and .005" and make sure you set them at the proper TDC, the wrong TDC and you will be setting them at valve overlap and they will be loose.............

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................

Last edited by willykiller; 10-28-2014 at 04:30 AM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 03:20 AM
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need help adjusting valves on 2004 yahama rhino 660. Diagram would be great. Found one on here yesterday. But cannot find it now
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 08:30 AM
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Wrench Valve adjustment

You can adjust both sides (in. & ex.) and the same time. As you rotate the motor watch your intake valves open and then close, the piston is now coming up to Top Dead Center (on the power stroke, of your 4 strokes). At TDC both Intake and Exhaust Valves are closed and can be adjusted at this point. Another thing to Definitely do is adjust valves while engine is COLD, I give a 24 hr. period of cool down before any adjusting due to the metal in the engine expanding with heat. If you adjust even warm valves they will be looser as the cooling metal contracts. Just my 2 cents, hope this helps.
Oh, one more thing. Were you reading the metric or the SAE print on your feeler gauges? I've seen this happen before and confuse the operator of the feeler gauge !
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