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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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bleeding brakes

I replaced the rear brakes and bled the lines but it still seems that i have no pedel and the rear brakes are not working. any ideas???
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 10:42 AM
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Did you pump the brakes back up? When you pushed the piston in the brake rotor back in, it has to come out and touch the pads again.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 11:29 AM
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I had the same issue when i changed my rear pads.. you just have to keep bleeding them until you feel pressure on the brake pedal. Also I was reading the repair manual and from what i understand theres a bleeder valve upfront on the master cylinder itself where you can also bleed it from.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2009, 03:47 PM
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I am going throught this now. I changed the rear pads and now no brakes. The pistonwas stuck, but I finally got it to go back in. I had to take the brake line and caliper off to get it back in. Now i can't get the air out of the system. I have bleed it at all the bleeder locations and bleed the line. I am thinking I damaged the seals aroun the piston. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-12-2009, 10:07 PM
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I thought the same thing. It seriously took forever to bleed all the air out of the brake lines for me. If you did damage any of the seals though its going to leak. So check for a leak if not keep bleeding. What year is your rhino? And why was your piston "stuck"?? I ran into the same issue. I was prying on the piston to get it to go in until i realized that it only pushes in so much and the have to thread in the rest... Mine is a 2007 Im not sure if all rhino calipers operate the same..
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 01:37 PM
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My piston pushed all the way in. It was stuck because it was maxex out. All the pads were gone. I had to take the caliper off and use a socket and hammer to get it go back in. I have changed the pads before and just used a big c-clamp to get the piston back in. I could turn the piston, but would not go in. What are you talking about when you said thread the rest of the way? Also checked there are no leaks and mine is a 2006 660
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 01:39 PM
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With the size of the lines and the puny little master cylinder it is going to take a lot of bleeding to get the air out.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 01:41 PM
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Use a vacuum tester / brake bleeder, then there is no mess and if the fluid is clean you can reuse it

Make sure the zerk fittings are pointed straight up. I had a problem similar to this on my buggy

Last edited by 1bddelx; 02-13-2009 at 01:47 PM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 02:55 PM
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mine threads in too. if you turn the piston clockwise. i also have an 06 660

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southernrhinoryder View Post
My piston pushed all the way in. It was stuck because it was maxex out. All the pads were gone. I had to take the caliper off and use a socket and hammer to get it go back in. I have changed the pads before and just used a big c-clamp to get the piston back in. I could turn the piston, but would not go in. What are you talking about when you said thread the rest of the way? Also checked there are no leaks and mine is a 2006 660
THe piston does NOT push all the way in ( on my 07 anyway). You can only push it in so much the rest threads in by spining it. If you look at the piston its got a big philips head looking cross in it so you can thread it in.. It took me about 2 days to figure this out... I was going crazy prying the hell out of it trying to get the piston to go in. I called like 4 dealers and no one told me that it threads in.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
1. Bleed:
• brake system

a. Add the proper brake fluid to the reservoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful not to spill
any fluid or allow the reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic hose 1 tightly to
the caliper bleed screw 2.
È Front
É Rear
d. Place the other end of the hose into a container.
e. Slowly apply the brake pedal several times.
f. Push down on the pedal and hold it.
g. Loosen the bleed screw and allow the pedal
to travel towards its limit.
h. Tighten the bleed screw when the pedal
limit has been reached, then release the
pedal.
i. Repeat steps (e) to (h) until all the air bubbles
have disappeared from the fluid.
j. Tighten the bleed screw.
NOTE:
If bleeding is difficult, it may be necessary to
let the brake fluid settle for a few hours.
Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny
bubbles in the system have disappeared.
k. Add brake fluid to the proper level.
Refer to “CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL”.
WARNING
Check the operation of the brake after
bleeding the brake system.

Punch a hole thru the top of a mason jar or similar glass jar and use the correct size clear vinyl bleed hose. This makes bleeding a lot easier. The end of the hose should be in enough brake fluid so that you can see the bubbles. Make sure that you don't remove too much fluid from the master cylinder with each pump. or you will suck in more air.

If all else fails, follow the instructions!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 10:50 AM
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Ive been having the worst time bleeding my brakes as well. Somebody informed me on this forum that the adjustment of the emergency brake could possibly have something to do with the difficulty of bleeding. Dont be like me and buy an $85 master cylinder rebuild kit, and then when that doesnt work i bought a new damn master cylinder and im in the same boat. There has to be a trick to bleeding the rear brakes on these damn things that nobody has talked about. I even bought a mighty vac and pump bleed the brakes with now change. Brake bleeding should not be this damn difficult. Can somebody just shoot me. lol. Thanks for reading.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 06:50 PM
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having all kind of hell with mine..not a fan of the parking brake set up..cant get lines bleed..blew the o ring out of parking brake piston so i lost all my fluid..cant get all air out now
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 08:21 PM
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check your master cyl to see if its stuck in the bore
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 03:15 PM
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Haha i had the same problem then i noticed the bleed nipple was below the brake line, so swapped them from RR to RL then bled them again and it only took 5mins and theyr sweet
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