A/F carb adjustment - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-05-2008, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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A/F carb adjustment

I have an 06 660, what is the procedure for adjusting the A/F ratio? Do you have to remove the carb to get to the adjustment screw? (I have an A/F gauge that is showing about 14 as an average)
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-05-2008, 10:10 PM
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You do need to remove it and unplug it the first time. After that it's possible to use a small screwdriver if you fit it under.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-05-2008, 11:42 PM
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I have always had to remove the carb to do this as i cannot fit a screw driver and my finger under the carb. I wish someone would make a needle with a thumb screw on it.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 07:07 AM
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Here is some good reading on jetting:
How to jet a carb (Getting a little hot)

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funk6294 View Post
I have always had to remove the carb to do this as i cannot fit a screw driver and my finger under the carb. I wish someone would make a needle with a thumb screw on it.
Make me one too! That would be sweet

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 07:18 AM
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How often do you really need to change the idle mixture? Shouldnt be that much...I haven't touched mine in almost 2 years. The main jet on the other hand I change about 3-4 times a year when I go to high country.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 10:45 AM
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This is why I like efi. Just push a button and you are done
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You do need to remove it and unplug it the first time. After that it's possible to use a small screwdriver if you fit it under.

Chandler, I have set the A/F ratio and changed fuel filter but still having problems with acceleration. When you put the peddle to the floor the Rhino struggles to get moving until the tach hits about 5000 rpm, and then its not a real fast take off. Top speed is about 40 mph and I have a Hunterworks CDI that eliminates the stock top end. There is about 45 hours on this machine and it did not act like this when I purchased. Any clues on what to look for?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 02:17 PM
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Are you saying your stock rhino runs like a fat old dog but used to run like a jack rabbit....

j/k...

Tune your wot throttle with the mainjet first for around 13.5:1

Set your idle a/f at about 12.5:1

Select the pilot jet that allows you to get that 12/12.5:1 idle a/f with around 2.0 to 2.5 turns out of the screw...expect that to be a 45/50 ymmv...so you are going to fatten your idle a bunch with a bigger pilot jet...then lean is some with the idle screw...if you have to go more than 2.5 turns out to get to 12:1 idle a/f your pilot jet is too big...

Then measure your e/t's in a fixed distance.... 0-300' works well...

Adjust your needle height for max accleration...lowest e/t's

Then fine tune your all four best launch and lowest e/t's...

You should also make sure you have an high flow air intake...

Also select your CVT secondary spring for best overall performance...

Unless you have compression problems or something you should be able to get it to run better/faster than it did before....
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 02:27 PM
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have you cleaned your filter since new? May be clogged air filter, may need a new fuel filter or you may need to adjust the valves if that was never done. Check you accelerator cable and make sure wide open is a flat butterfly with the least restriction.

What O2 reading are you getting?
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 02:36 PM
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Are you saying your stock rhino runs like a fat old dog but used to run like a jack rabbit....

j/k...

Tune your wot throttle with the mainjet first for around 13.5:1

Set your idle a/f at about 12.5:1

Select the pilot jet that allows you to get that 12/12.5:1 idle a/f with around 2.0 to 2.5 turns out of the screw...expect that to be a 45/50 ymmv...so you are going to fatten your idle a bunch with a bigger pilot jet...then lean is some with the idle screw...if you have to go more than 2.5 turns out to get to 12:1 idle a/f your pilot jet is too big...

Then measure your e/t's in a fixed distance.... 0-300' works well...

Adjust your needle height for max accleration...lowest e/t's

Then fine tune all five elements (mainjet, needle postition, pilot jet, a/f setting and idle speed) to get the best launch and lowest e/t's...

You should also make sure you have an high flow air intake...

Also select your CVT secondary spring for best overall performance...

Unless you have compression problems or something you should be able to get it to run better/faster than it did before...

Sorry I went to clean up some typos and hit the quote instead of edit...
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2008, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyrap View Post
Are you saying your stock rhino runs like a fat old dog but used to run like a jack rabbit....

j/k...

Tune your wot throttle with the mainjet first for around 13.5:1

Set your idle a/f at about 12.5:1

Select the pilot jet that allows you to get that 12/12.5:1 idle a/f with around 2.0 to 2.5 turns out of the screw...expect that to be a 45/50 ymmv...so you are going to fatten your idle a bunch with a bigger pilot jet...then lean is some with the idle screw...if you have to go more than 2.5 turns out to get to 12:1 idle a/f your pilot jet is too big...

Then measure your e/t's in a fixed distance.... 0-300' works well...

Adjust your needle height for max accleration...lowest e/t's

Then fine tune your all four best launch and lowest e/t's...

You should also make sure you have an high flow air intake...

Also select your CVT secondary spring for best overall performance...

Unless you have compression problems or something you should be able to get it to run better/faster than it did before....
I have not adjusted the valves, but the air filter is clean and I just replaced the fuel filter. It does also have a Hunterworks performance sheeve installed with an aftermarket belt that has maybe 30 hours on it. This Rhino used to run great but can't pull itself up a hill without putting it in low gear now. Very frustrating.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chandler View Post
have you cleaned your filter since new? May be clogged air filter, may need a new fuel filter or you may need to adjust the valves if that was never done. Check you accelerator cable and make sure wide open is a flat butterfly with the least restriction.

What O2 reading are you getting?
Chandler, I don't have a way to measure the 02, only the A/F which is about 13 at idle. I have not adjusted the valves, but the air filter is clean and I just replaced the fuel filter. It does also have a Hunterworks performance sheeve installed with an aftermarket belt that has maybe 30 hours on it. This Rhino used to run great but can't pull itself up a hill without putting it in low gear now. Very frustrating.

Last edited by gregnamy; 12-12-2008 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2008, 08:42 PM
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TYRAP
How did you come up with 12:5 for the idle A/F ? It seems to be well into the fat range. I just started tuning today and was shooting to get all circuits in the 13 range.

45 pilot
3/4 out on the screw
Dj needle on #2
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 10:36 AM
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Trial and error...

If your desired idle a/f is achieved at 3/4 turns out of the a/f screw your pilot jet is too small...

When you CW to seat screw it cuts off air to make a/f richer...

Inrease pilot to 50 so that you have more turns out to get what you want....

Stock carb...???

I would intall something around 90 starter jet for your fuel enrichment...

Use the pilot jet to establish desired a/f at 1.5 to 2.5 turns out...

The stock carb has no accelerator...too lean a pilot and idle a/f setting gives you lean stumble when you crack the throttle...

Tune for best e/t's in fixed distance with little or no stumble...

Don't use an arbitrary number on your afr gauge...find out what the numbers are on your afr gauge when it runs peak...then in the future use those numbers as a starting place...
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 11:06 AM
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What A/F gauge is everyone using?
Chandler, what's that sensor for next to the a/f screw?
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