Rear Brake Grinding - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
Transmission and Drive train For specific discussion of the transmission, differentials, axles and drive train.

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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
Hog Chaser
 
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Rear Brake Grinding

For those or you who have the 2007 and earlier Rhino 660's, you have probably heard the sickening griinding noise when the back brake pads need replacing. Mine was doing that and I replaced the pads last night, but it is still making the grinding noise. Will it make that noise if the front pads need replacing? Any help or words of wisdom will be appreciated.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 07:10 AM
Gear Grinder
 
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My Rhino made that noise since day one.

How to fix?














Turn up the radio...
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 08:25 AM
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Mine was doing the same thing, yet again. I replaced the front and rear pads last night, they were wore down to the metal. Seems like they don't last very long. Anyway, no more grinding, so it may be the front doing it on yours. While we're at it, anyone ever replaced the roter off the rear? Looks like mine is wore quite a bit, just wondering how hard it'd be to replace?
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2007 Rhino 660
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Nipple deep. I think I will replace the front ones as well. It's been a couple of years since I replaced them as usually it's the back that wears out. I did notice that the back pads weren't worn all the way down to the metal as they have been when I repleced them previously, so it may well be the front pads that are making the grinding noise.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 11:24 AM
Puddle Jumper
 
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Installing a new rear rotor is simple just kind of a PITA.

To replace rear rotor:

1. Drop rear skid plate
2. Unbolt rear caliper and let it dangle out of the way
3. Unbolt rear rotor and also unbolt rear final drive, only two bolts on-top holding it in place.
4. Slide rear dif back and separate the slip-yoke.
5. Slide old rotor off and slide new rotor in, install rotor bolts (no need to tighten quite yet) to keep rotor in place.
6. Re-install final drive by connecting slip-yoke and installing mounting bolts.
7. Tighten rotor mounting bolts and re-install caliper.

Be sure to loctite everything and put CRC disc brake quiet on any new pads that you install, stuff works.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 11:33 AM
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Thanks for the info!

2007 Rhino 660
2" CFM Lift
4 Seater w/ Full Cage
Custom Vinyl Wrap
Big Gun Exhaust
28" Outlaws / Black ITP SS108
________________________________
2007 Grizzly - Broke!
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 02:36 PM
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they make some stuff you apply to the metal backing of the pad (not the pad itself ) where it contacts the caliper. not sure how or why but its supposed to work

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=2600828
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
Hog Chaser
 
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Well, I finally had time to replace the front pads as well. They were definitely worn out. However, when I hit the brakes hard, the loud grinding still occurs. Must be something beside the brake pads causing this.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 07:56 AM
Sparky
 
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It's the rear rotor. You can replace it, and be 'good' for a while - but the sound will return.

Personally, I just live with the noise. It's an offroad toy, not a Bentley. I couldn't care less if it makes a grinding sound, as long as it stops! (And it does )
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto92 View Post
they make some stuff you apply to the metal backing of the pad (not the pad itself ) where it contacts the caliper. not sure how or why but its supposed to work

CRC/4 oz. (118.294 ml.) high temperature disc brake quiet (05016) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com

Yes it does work for quite a while. ive done this on the last two sets and it seemed to help for quite a while. at some point it does start grinding again but it was worth the extra effort for as long as it lasted.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 12:33 PM
Sparky
 
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Guys - the 'anti-squeal' compound on the back of the pads does NOTHING to prevent the grinding noise. It serves the same purpose as it does on car brakes - it reduces vibration/squealing by giving a bit of lube between the caliper piston and the back of the pad.

RadicalRam - the fact that it appeared to 'work' for quite a while isn't related to the anti-squeal compound. It's just the fact that the brakes/rotor wore down to the point where the grinding started again. The two may appear to be related, but in my opinion, they aren't!
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 12:47 PM
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Ok maybe i was wrong about that then.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 01:10 PM
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Mine has done it for years. The rotor is on the driveline and that is alot of the issue. I changed pads and it only helps for a bit. The way to deal with the issue is buy headsets or get the conversion kit to have the brakes and rotors mount where the wheels are like the 08 and up rhino
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-15-2012, 12:48 PM
Mechanic
 
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How many miles are the brakes good for? Where can u get pads? Thx!
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieptcb View Post
For those or you who have the 2007 and earlier Rhino 660's, you have probably heard the sickening griinding noise when the back brake pads need replacing. Mine was doing that and I replaced the pads last night, but it is still making the grinding noise. Will it make that noise if the front pads need replacing? Any help or words of wisdom will be appreciated.
You need to clean the slide pins with emery cloth and grease them, it's probably sticking. The pads slide on those pins and their isn't much clearance if there is a buildup of dust and rust.
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