Anyone know how to take a measurement for the right length axles? Millimeters or Inches? I am assuming the A-arms need to be parallel to the ground because they are at their longest point in that position. Any advice would be helpful.

What are you trying to accomplish?

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The company that build my LT kit specified the wrong length front axles. He told me he would be getting me new ones but has been giving me the run around for 3 months now. I am tired of driving a 2wd Rhino around the dunes, even with paddles, it sucks. I just need to get these measurements to Summers Bros to get my new axles made.

is it a plus 6 or plus 3 or one-off?

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Its a "one off (only 4 made apparently) +4"

Ug, do you know if the kit changed the wheelbase at all? Like 1'' forward?

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Yes, 2" forward and 2" back I believe.

That only makes things harder

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So the guy that built my kit is my only hope?

No, let me see what I can do

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Pahrump on here may know, he had a +4 at one time I beleive.

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LOORRS Rookie of the Year
Unlimited UTV 2009

Benchmark 686, (67.6 RWHP )
HRT Motorsports cage, LSR XTR 6.5
Rugged RRP600
www.unleashedutv.com

I am working on it and should have a yay or nay very shortly.

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I just went through the same thing with a one off kit. If youre using stock cv's, heres what I did. I took a stock axle, cut it in half and sleeved it together with a chunk of pipe that would barely slide over it. Mount it in the cv's like normal, pull the inner boot back so you can see the cv plunging. Find the longest axle point of your travel (usually is when the arms are straight out). Make sure the bearing cage is right about 3/8" away from the clip that holds them in, but no more than that or your axle will bottom out on the back of the cv when its at its shortest point, tack weld the sleeve on. Remove the axle and measure from inner clip groove to outer clip groove

Thanks Jeff, I may have to resort to that.

Steve, let me know what you come up with.

I can have them in a few weeks for you. Call the store if you want me to order them for you.

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