Gear box oil? Anyone?

John

Amsoil,BRP or Royal Purple....Mobil 1, as long as at meets manufacturers specs use what you want.wants

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09 700,FU2 4 seater cage, Yamaha accessory bumper, S.E. Led Tails,28" Zillas on 14"ITP sport locks,maker flares,hot rod sheave/18g od weights and gold spring

What shift out point are you guys using? I'm. Currently working on clutching and I'm trying to find the optimum shift out. Do you want it as high as your motor can take it or is their a sweet spot? I've been told by Flynt (whose motor components I have) that 8000-8200 is what my cam likes.

John

I am certainly no expert in clutching but I'm thinking if optimum power is 8000-8200 I don't think I'd want the clutch "loose" (if that makes sense) to the point where the engine goes right to that rpm. That's getting close to redline anyway. Then you're relying on the clutch "tightening up" (again if that makes sense) for acceleration.

I think I would rather have the clutch let the engine rev up right away to around 7800 max and then let the power of the engine accelerate the Rhino to where the rev's end up at 8000-8200.

Again, no expert here.

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"Hey, hold my beer and watch this!"
2007 Rhino / Rotax, 2008 800cc Outlander, '09 intake, UTV Crap Dalton Clutch kit, Muzzy header, glasspacks, livnlo wiring, WERS, LSR MT, Cognito Spindles, Doonz,
ROTAX BUILD PICS http://www.flickr.com/photos/deanhoo...7624436193769/
I now drive a bus


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr

So my understanding is that the cvt setup jumps to shift out and stays there throught the entire shifting cycle. So from a stop if you punch it it should rev to whatever you have your shift out set to and stay there. If climbing a hill the secondary should downshift (if yours does) and maintain that shift out point to keep wheel spin up and keep the motor at optimum power.

Are you saying that when you punch it the rpms jump and then gradually increase? Assuming wot the entire time I thought rpms are suppose to stay constant throughout?

John

In rereading your post Dean, I don't think the belt is loose at all during acceleration. I think its grabbing the entire time just adjusting ratios to keep it at your set rpm.. I believe its only loose at idle and at times during rapid deceleration when the secondary opens too fast. I'm no guru either so we'll have to wait for the smart guys to chime in.

Are you saying that when you punch it the rpms jump and then gradually increase? Assuming wot the entire time I thought rpms are suppose to stay constant throughout?

Again, I'm no expert, but this is kinda how I see it.


Okay, below is just me thinking out loud.

Mine is stock 800 with some clutching mods.

Currently from a dead stop, flat ground, if I floor it my rpms will jump up to say 5,000+. As the momentum builds the rpms will climb and hold around 7200-7300 (which is what I'm concieving as my shiftout rpm) as the Rhino is accelerating from say 30-60 mph.

As the speed of the Rhino catches up to the clutching, going 1:1, (60-65 mph) the rpm's will then slowly build to around 7600-7700 (65-69 mph). Like I said my motor is stock and is not going to have as much pull at the higher rpm's like yours.

On a hill, like Oldsmobile, my rpm's will go up and hold around 7200 (I need more clutching and more power) while yet only going around 25-30 mph (wheel spin).

So my guessing is only based on my experience with MY Rhintax. Your BBK and clutching could put you in a different ballpark. But I just can't grasp the concept of having the shiftout right up at the redline. But if that's where your engine makes the most power then...

BTW my current clutch kit is the Dalton DBO 800M I believe it's called. Alum rivets and yellow/black secondary spring.

In my minds eye I keep picturing a dyno graph where the hp peaks just a few hundred rpm's before dropping drastically as the rpm's raise to the rev limiter. I wouldn't think I'd want the shift out right at the peak. I'd want it before the peak so it can accelerate more as the clutching goes 1:1.

What is your ignition letting your redline go up to?

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"Hey, hold my beer and watch this!"
2007 Rhino / Rotax, 2008 800cc Outlander, '09 intake, UTV Crap Dalton Clutch kit, Muzzy header, glasspacks, livnlo wiring, WERS, LSR MT, Cognito Spindles, Doonz,
ROTAX BUILD PICS http://www.flickr.com/photos/deanhoo...7624436193769/
I now drive a bus


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr

I met it as a figure of speech.

__________________
"Hey, hold my beer and watch this!"
2007 Rhino / Rotax, 2008 800cc Outlander, '09 intake, UTV Crap Dalton Clutch kit, Muzzy header, glasspacks, livnlo wiring, WERS, LSR MT, Cognito Spindles, Doonz,
ROTAX BUILD PICS http://www.flickr.com/photos/deanhoo...7624436193769/
I now drive a bus


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr

My rev limiter is set at 8500 but I can set it to whatever with the tune monster ecm. From a stop if I punch it my rev goes to 7400 then drops to 6400 and holds as I accelerate. I was told by Adam at Airdam that it should stay up in the higher rpm (assuming my foot stays on the gas of course). The primary should set the shift out and the secondary is like your gears. My stock secondary can't upshift fast enough from a stop at WOT and can't backshift at WOT so my rpm and wheelspin suffer as the weight of the vehicle boggs it down in the non-optimal gear.

I have the STM secondary on order. That should really help with shifting issues ill still have to adjust for shiftout that's why I'm trying to get good info here.

I changed to the yel/blk secondary spring and gained about 500 rpm's. I'd try that next. Relatively cheap compared to a new secondary. I suspect the primary is not optimally tuned but may come closer with the yel/blk spring in the secondary.

__________________
"Hey, hold my beer and watch this!"
2007 Rhino / Rotax, 2008 800cc Outlander, '09 intake, UTV Crap Dalton Clutch kit, Muzzy header, glasspacks, livnlo wiring, WERS, LSR MT, Cognito Spindles, Doonz,
ROTAX BUILD PICS http://www.flickr.com/photos/deanhoo...7624436193769/
I now drive a bus


Untitled by deanhoover, on Flickr

Yeah I guess I'm suppose to lower the weight on the primary to get a higher shiftout. Was the spring you put on the secondary harder? I'm eating up that helix pretty easy and I thought the stiffer spring holds it in midrange longer but eats the helix faster. I've also tried the commander helix and put more wear than I'd hope for one weekend. The 650 one was deffinately better though.

The most popular setup with Rhintaxs running the Dalton kits are the aluminum rivets, tan primary spring with the yellow/black secondary spring....this info came from Dale @ Dalton Industries when I was inquiring about a kit for our Commander and not just a dream I had.....

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Per Dale:

"A lot of the people with rotax rhinos seem to like best the following set up...DBO 800M kit (same as you have but with the addition of the yellow /black secondary spring....they also seem to most prefer now the tan primary
spring and aluminum rivets to go with the rest of that set up....just info
in case you care to see what others seem to have narrowed down to more
recently on those rhintax 's.....they are ,however different from a
commander set up)...different final drive gearing,different hp, different
opposing flyweights and forces, a lot of differences."

The tan primary spring hits higher than stock but lower than the green/yellow one...then there's killer, the yellow/red primary that I just put in mine,,,can't wait to test it out....

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Alright all you can am gurus , can the throttle body be mounted in either direction. Big hole or little hole....thanks

Pretty positive that it can only go the intended direction.

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2006 Camo Rhino, 2010 Rotax 800, muzzy duals, dobeck power commander, AEM AFR, STM Rage 6, Tuner Secondary, dual odyssey batteries, AFE under hood custom intake, Progressive 425 HD shocks, livnlo harness, ITP Beadlocks 26" Bighorn 2.0s, UTV Inc rear cage and seat.
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