Rotax Your Rhino info you should know!

nvs2none · #46 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 07:48 AM

Lance, You may need a heavier secondary with all that traction. I bet it is slipping in your secondary pulley under a hard load and building heat................just a thought!

**my07rhino** · #47 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 07:52 AM

I'm going to try the yellow/black spring on the secondary and add the alum rivets on the weights in the primary. Supposed to be tighter on the belt and a bit lower gear ratio (higher rpms). At the top of the big dunes (ie. China Wall) I'm only getting about 6400 rpm's. Supposed to only lose about 1-2 mph overall too.

nvs2none · #48 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 08:36 AM

That is what I am running, the dalton Yellow/Black. I only get about 60mph top speed but it climbs nice!

**my07rhino** · #49 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 08:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by nvs2none

That is what I am running, the dalton Yellow/Black. I only get about 60mph top speed but it climbs nice!

did you add the alum rivets in the weights?

4u2njoy · #50 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 02:37 PM

[quote=lbr;545795]

Quote: Originally Posted by kmb760

Quote: Originally Posted by lbr

thanx for this info hunt....

No matter how good i clean around the dipstick before pulling to check the oil, i always get sand in the case threads....i hate that feeling screwing in the dipstick and feeling the sand in the threads....then you got to attempt cleaning the case without sand falling into the open hole and into the crankcase oil........it sucks to do, but i've figured a way to clean the threads tho and not let sand into the crankcase....

Hope the dipstick calibration is correct...think i'll take a good reading with the existing factory one, do this swap, then recheck and note any differences in readings, if any.....lance[/quo
new paddles? What's the new set up?

Hey lance did you ever have a chance to install the oil filler neck?

not yet ...haven't crossed that bridge yet ....working on the cvt cooling more to try and save on the belt ....since i put on my new paddles and have more traction, the belt is overheating badly .....

Thanx for the memory jog tho!!! ...i need to order that dipstick upgrade and 'git_it _on! '.....lance

...sent with tapatalk...please excuse brevity & no smileys

nvs2none · #51 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 04:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by my07rhino

Quote: Originally Posted by nvs2none

That is what I am running, the dalton Yellow/Black. I only get about 60mph top speed but it climbs nice!

did you add the alum rivets in the weights?

My clutch is kinda hybrid right now.....

I have a white EPI primary spring(which is real close to the dalton green/yellow)
I have a yellow/black DALTON secondary with the 650 helix and I am running three stock outlander weights @ 38.5g each and three that I milled down to 37g each. It works really good for climbing.......right at 6900-7k on hills, but like I said it will only do 60mph top speed.

I am trying to get some custom weights built but we messed up the first round so still working on it.

**my07rhino** · #52 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 05:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by nvs2none

Quote: Originally Posted by my07rhino

Quote: Originally Posted by nvs2none

That is what I am running, the dalton Yellow/Black. I only get about 60mph top speed but it climbs nice!

did you add the alum rivets in the weights?

My clutch is kinda hybrid right now.....

I have a white EPI primary spring(which is real close to the dalton green/yellow)
I have a yellow/black DALTON secondary with the 650 helix and I am running three stock outlander weights @ 38.5g each and three that I milled down to 37g each. It works really good for climbing.......right at 6900-7k on hills, but like I said it will only do 60mph top speed.

I am trying to get some custom weights built but we messed up the first round so still working on it.

I'm guessing possibly the lighter weights are slowing you down to 60? The stronger yellow/black secondary spring by itself will keep the belt from riding to the top on the primary. The primary needs extra weight to counter-act the extra spring tension on the secondary. How high does the belt ride on your primary? This is what I understand to be happening based on my calls to Dalton tech support. I don't know what the Dalton weights are with the alum rivets but I'm guessing more than 37g. Also, the 650 helix may be slowing you down too. With the yellow/black secondary spring you probably need the 800 helix.

Like I said on the really big sand hills (the ones I have trouble climbing) I'm down to 6500 rpm. According to Dalton the yel/blk secondary should raise the rpm by 500. By adding the alum rivets it should keep me to only losing about 1-2 mph top end speed.

I don't claim to be an expert because in no way I am. But I don't think I would be happy with 60 mph out of my Rhintax. I think with proper clutch tuning you should be able to keep your hill climbing rpm's and be able to go much faster than just 60.

BTW, I can consistently hit 69mph on mine at 7650 rpm. The last trip to the desert (3,000' elevation) I hit 74 mph at 7650 rpm on a slight downhill but with a 35-45 mph crosswind and 3 people on board. Those are GPS speeds.

For some reason I can seem to get past 7650 rpm. Sometimes it will flash 7700. Is that redline? My motor is stock.

nvs2none · #53 (**permalink**) 05-24-2011, 05:40 PM

I tried heavier weights first..............It was a dog on hills. I had to lighten em to bring the rpm up............once you put the secondary on your will lose top speed regardless of what Dalton says......I have tried it. I have been in my clutch three times to get it where it is and it is good enough for now.......I am sure I can go over 60 but at 60 my motor is truning 7300-7400 rpm. I honestly rarely ride that fast anyway, Our dunes are not like Glamis......we have more trails and hill climbs and stuff. Glamis is mainly one big bowl to another and you can haul ass cause you can see for miles....not so in Oregon.

hunt · #54 (**permalink**) 09-12-2011, 05:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hunt

Here is what I found.

The tube is from several models of the snowmobiles but I used a 2008 Ski-Doo Expedition TUV V800 Snowmobile for reference .

Part numbers are:

420631640- O-ring
420856610- Adapter
420430370- O-ring (need 2)
420856920- OIL LEVEL TUBE
420240385- Screw
420956936- OIL LEVEL GAUGE
420631642- O-ring (need 2)

Link to diagram:

http://www.rpmms.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1411699&category= Snowmobiles&make=Ski-Doo&year=2008&fveh=39261

Here are a few shots of the tube installed. Sorry for my absents but I have been spending a lot of time over seas. I would love to have mine done for KOH 2012 but with the upcoming work schedule I really don't think I am going to get it done and tested.

Parts not required that are in the above parts list:
420240385- Screw: Uses an existing motor bolt
420631642- O-ring (need 2): Comes with o-rings installed on dipstick already

**jhauffen** · #55 (**permalink**) 09-12-2011, 07:36 PM

Ohh thats purdy!

Blue_Rhino · #56 (**permalink**) 09-12-2011, 07:40 PM

What did it cost you??

hunt · #57 (**permalink**) 09-12-2011, 07:53 PM

$137.81 with tax and shipping.

The oil lever is spot on with where the old dipstick was.

deanrhino160j · #58 (**permalink**) 09-26-2011, 08:45 AM

Hey brian dean in sacramento what is the best way to measure the length of the rear drive line i know you said a little play and mine is tight

ROTR · #59 (**permalink**) 09-26-2011, 09:15 AM

Thinking on doing this, but cannot handle it on my own.
Is there any one close to the st george utah that can do a turnkey build?
I would like to find someone that has done this before that knows how to tune it.

**Brian B** · #60 (**permalink**) 09-26-2011, 10:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by ROTR

Thinking on doing this, but cannot handle it on my own.
Is there any one close to the st george utah that can do a turnkey build?
I would like to find someone that has done this before that knows how to tune it.

K&T performance in Ogden can get her done for you!