This is a discussion on Turn Signals within the Lighting, Stereo, and Electrical forums, part of the Technical category; Over the weekend I installed rear and front signal lights (LED), two dash indicator lights (LED) and a Signal-Stat 900 turn signal lever with a ...
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No, the whole harness is self contained, not in anyway connected to the Rhino's wiring harness. Even the lights are bought and seperate from the lights on the Rhino. No Flasher is independent, X-L-P posts. Lever brings out two of these wires, blue for P, and black for L, the X post gets a wire directly from the Painless.
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Demon, the harness was just plain 14g wire I ran from each individual light to the Signal Stat 900 and finally to the flasher. I guess I am just dumb, but if they come on constant when activated wouldn't that say something? I have tried both a standard can flasher as well as an electronic flasher, same results no flash. Also, the Signal Stat 900 says it can power up to 6 lights which is what I have, only the electronic flasher showed how many lights it could do, and that was six also.
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LED lights take a lot less load to power than regular bulbs. Flashers work under certain loads. if the bulbs aren't pulling enough load, the flasher will never flash. so what these other guys are saying, is you will need a flasher that is specific for LED lights, not regular bulbs.
hope that clears it up. G-
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Greg, thanks, now go one step further, the Signal-Stat 900 does that matter with a LED type flasher? How do you know how to figure out what load is required for the flasher?? When you go to the local Autozone they only have can or electronic flashers, 2 and 3 prong.
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your going beyond my knowledge now.. i am not sure what the loads are.. i know most LED replacement bulbs that you can stick into normal car light housings have little circuit boards in the bulb so they show the proper load. I wish i could help further, but i don't know anymore than what i have already said. good luck!
g-
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Normally a can flasher is thermal, meaning it takes a certain current draw to open the circuit, using LED's your current draw is to little to heat the element to open the circuit. You need a flasher designed for low draw circuits like this:
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...9236&langId=-1
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Thanks to all of you, after talking with Signal-Stat's CS Dept., great bunch of guys, kinda like you guys, I now understand, and OrphanCowboy is right you have to use a LED Flasher Unit. The lamps and housing that I bought are all a self contained unit, and therefore very little amp load at all. It doesn't matter how you make the signals work, ie the Signal-Stat or a contact switch, with no load a standard auto flasher won't have enough juice to operate. I appreciate all of your help, I am kinda dumb when it comes to this kind of stuff. I do remember somewhere where SteveS said that if you used LEDs it would require modifications though. Ordered a LED flasher, should be good to go.
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If it doesn't work right off with the LED flasher, you may then want to try putting a tiny incandescent bulb on each circuit, left and right. Radio Shack for example sells little panel indicator lights, but make sure that they are 12V incandescent and not LED.
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Ordered a LED flasher, should be good to go.[/QUOTE]
pics please. my riding group has been discussing this issue for a while now. FYI for locals, you can buy the LED flasher at cycle gear on cave creek road. |
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I got the rears which just fit very nicely in my HMF rear bumper holes for about $6 a piece. The fronts are 3 LED type about $4 a piece, and dash LEDs were about $3 for the pair all at PEP Boys in the custom section. Signal Stat 900 was $25 with shipping off of Ebay, NAPA wanted $49. LED Flasher was $9 from SuperBrightLEDs. So I guess out the door this will cost me about $58, so now when my wife takes the kids to school in the Rhino she can feel better when turning, I know that those LED lights are very bright, much more intense than even the rear Rhino Lights.
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