Need help with misfire and popping - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2012, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Need help with misfire and popping

Hey guys hope I'm in the right place to post this.

Well today i took my rhino 06 660 out for a ride and it started to misfire and popping. I'm driving fine and all do the sudden pops and it cuts off like its out of gas, I pull to the side and it starts right up other times I'm driving and it start popping and misfiring. On one run it seem to run great and then it starts all over. . I check the carb it was clean check the carb boot and it had no cracks check for leaks and no leaks. It has a black rhino cdi box so i insall the stock box and same thing. I check my spark plug and it looks lean so I whent bigger jet and same thing. It has and edelbrock carb and a k&n intake. So I install all the original carb and original box and it's still missing and popping.I also replace the spark plug coil. I don't know what to any more. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 04:25 AM
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Check that your reverse switch is working properly, you may have the reverse rev limiter engaging....................

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Were is the reverse switch locaited?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 09:04 PM
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Your aftermarket cdi should not allow a reverse limiter, mine doesn't so I doubt that's the problem. I had the same problem. Check your fuel lines, your fuel filter and your pump. With mine it was the lines and pump. My pump was too weak to supply enough fuel especially when it got cold outside, due to more dense air. My lines also had a couple of pinholes so the pump would tick like it was vapour locked. I might be wrong about your situation but its worth checking into.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 10:34 AM
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if i put a sheave and aftermarket clutch in ,do i have to get rid of the stock cdi box to make it go faster ..or will it still hit the rev limiter ..and what is the best or a good aftermarket cdi box for a stock 2008 f.i. 700 rhino..i see dynatek f.i and mds...makes them
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 01:41 PM
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It Will still hit the rev limiter. You need to change the CDI.

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:50 PM
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Mine started doing that after riding for quit awhile, i pulled my cover to the intake and it ran fine. Probably getting to hot in the crappy design of a air box
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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I found the problem it ended up been my facet fuel pump. I'm back to running like a champ. I was doing 52 mph this weeken
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willykiller View Post
It Will still hit the rev limiter. You need to change the CDI.
Ok thanks I am looking for a good cdi box now
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchytrggrfngr View Post
Your aftermarket cdi should not allow a reverse limiter, mine doesn't so I doubt that's the problem. I had the same problem. Check your fuel lines, your fuel filter and your pump. With mine it was the lines and pump. My pump was too weak to supply enough fuel especially when it got cold outside, due to more dense air. My lines also had a couple of pinholes so the pump would tick like it was vapour locked. I might be wrong about your situation but its worth checking into.
My Dyna fs will allow the rev limiter to work

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 07:44 AM
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His is a black rhino cdi for carb'd engines. Mine is a dynatek cdi for carb'd engines. They both eliminate the reverse limiter. Some cdi boxes do not. I am surprised as yours does not, since it is a dynatek. Either way it doesn't matter 'cause it was a weak or faulty pump like mine.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:18 AM
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R Bigbadwolf,
If you are running a lighter weight setup for your clutch, I suggest you get an aftermarket cdi or you will just hit the rev limiter without taking full advantage of your setup. Also, look into a syphon break for your crankcase breather. With the additional rpm you will need it or you will blow oil from your crankcase breather tube into your air intake. I got mine from ebay from alba for 30 bucks. Worth the investment. If you do some mudding it is also nice to have no reverse limiter with the new cdi. There is a reason why there is an over-ride switch on some quads and sxs's like my Commander.
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