Why work so hard. Take the spindle loose from the control arms and pull the axle out with the spindle as an assembly...... IF you get the stub axle nut loose you'll have a hard time getting it to stay tight after that.

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Arrrrrrrrrr we dunin yet
K&N, ProComm CDI, Stainless Exhaust tip, KMS sheave, EPI Clutch kit, Lonestar MTS kit w/ Bilsteins, Gear-One axles, rack and billet goodies, B&A cage

So how will it come loose if you rebend the tab on the nut?????I doubt that it will just spin off if you reinstall it correctly.

I used a 3/4" drive 22" breaker bar...

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2008 Silver Sport 700 Rhino
26.5x9x12 Pitbull Uber Rockers, Sheave, Full Body Armor, 3500 Viper Max Winch, Trail Armor Doors, HID Lights, Pod Mod Fuelie, Grant Steering Wheel, Trunk Box, Crow Harness, Dashcustoms Windshield, Manual Wiper, Delorme Satellite Image GPS, Swisher Angle Plow

Sold my Rhino 450, Mule 610 Camo 4x4, and Yamaha Prohauler 700

I always grind another groove opposite the one already on the end of the spindle where the nut gets "staked". I then have 2 places to stake the nut giving it double the holding power.

I used a 1/2inch pull handle (ya'll call 'em breaker bars) and a 4 foot cheater bar - broke 2 pull handles putting the nut back on (not the bar itself, but the part that goes into the socket 1)at the socket 2)at the pin that holds it in the bar), but the nut is TIGHT! It took most of my 265lbs on the 4 ft bar to take the nut off the first time when I replaced the wheel bearings.
You gotta hold your mouth just right, if that doesn't work, you'll have to ask for your balls from your wife's purse to get the "grunt" you need to break it loose....like I did...ahem, I mean like "my friend" did

If your not replacing the stub axle bearings why go through all of the extra work of loosening the nut? Even after taking the nut off you will have to remove the spindle to get the axle out. Why do extra work that is not needed. Just a thought.

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Arrrrrrrrrr we dunin yet
K&N, ProComm CDI, Stainless Exhaust tip, KMS sheave, EPI Clutch kit, Lonestar MTS kit w/ Bilsteins, Gear-One axles, rack and billet goodies, B&A cage

I had to get it out of the way so I could grind the bottom shock mount for a lift kit installation.

What loctight should I use when I put it back on?

Thanks.

i ve used blue loctite and sometimes red loctite. next time the nut HAS to come off you might have to use a little heat to help back the nut off. still hammer the tab back down into the notch and your down. i broke out the service manual and they say these axle nuts needs to be torqued to like 250 ft. lbs. several times with the impact does pretty good. now this has worked for me several times. knock on wood

Thanks, I put a drop of blue on there and impacted it all back together.

End result is about a 2" total lift kit front and rear, no CV binding at all, so I'm happy with the finished product...

Thanks for all the help with getting these damn nuts off, I just needed a better impact and I had to let it sit on there for quite a few seconds before I could see it moving ever so slightly.

I gotta say though, I'm not a big fan of the dented in tab idea, why not use a castle nut and a cotter pin like the polaris machines...

thats to easy

They do the staking approach because it's CHEAPER than a castellated nut and cotter pin.

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AZ Jeff
2008 450cc Trail Crawler