Mine did need adjusting and the consenus is that adjusting is a real need during initial breakin.
This type of tool is a big help.
I don't personally have these but bent some feeler gauges to match this and the bend at the tip is required.
This is what I did. Of course covers off and remove spark plug and valve adjust covers. You can reach the 4 bolts that hold the plastic fan cover on (10mm). Then a plastic plug for the timing marks. Use a quarter to remove the plug.
I didn't remove the tank or the bed. I did however remove the CVT pipe that comes from the front of the engine to above the head of the motor. Easy to get off, sucks to get back on.
I stuck a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and rotated the nut next to timing hole counter-clockwise. I don't remember the size of the nut. Hold the screwdriver that's in the spark plug hole and let in move in and out with the piston freely (don't let it bind). Watch the valves and when the piston is coming up on the power stroke watch as the screwdriver nears TDC. Shine a light in the timing marks hole. Mine had 3 dashes and I stopped at the center one. There's a slot in the side of the timing plug hole that should line up with the marks.
I used a .005" and .007" gauge for the intake and a .007" and .009" for the exhaust. I bent my gauges about a 1/4 inch from the end at a 45 degree angle. Mine would snap if bent with a tool so I bent with fingers to get a gradual curve. The .005" is the measurement for intake and the .007" is a no go gauge. Same with the exhaust but .007" is the measurement and .009" is a no go gauge.
The intake is easy. Do a initial check and of course if you don't have to adjust, then don't. If adjust, first break loose the nuts and then snug them. Next put a wrench over the nut and hold the square with small needle nose pliers. I loosened the nut while holding the adjustment then move the adjustment bolt then re-snug the nut. I kept this up until I had them good and then tightened the nut good but didn't check the torque spec. The .005" should be able to go in and feel like normal shim type resistance and the .007" shouldn't fit in.
For the rears I went from the passenger side and held the 10mm in the left hand. A long 10mm would work great I think. I held it under the frame and then held the adjust screw with the right hand and did the same type of adjustment. Loosen the nut move the screw and re-snug the nut.
I did all the valves 3 times including exhaust because I screwed them up the first 2 times. First mistake was rotating the engine clockwise to line up marks. The next time I thougth I had it right but when I started the valves were way too loose. Rechecked and they were. After that I did my adjust and the went through several revolution of the motor and realigned TCD and then recheck. I checked the valves 3 times after final adjust this way and when I was satisfied they were the same spot each time, I decided I was done and the engine did run great.
Now I don't see the valve adjust as anything difficult.