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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Valves

The book for the Rhino states to adjust the valves at 20 hours and then 150 etc... Anyone had a problem with this? Anyone found the valves in need of adjustment or are they usually ok? Whats the lash anyway?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 09:02 AM
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Clearances -

Intake 0.10 - 0.15mm
Exhaust 0.15 - 0.20mm

Per the manual page 2-5

©hris
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 09:07 AM
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right click save as, then you can enlarge it for easier reading, enjoy.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the specs and the diagram. I think the 07 manual is a bit different though. I have not been able to find the clearances listed in it... Page 8-32 in an 07 owners manual only says that they should be adjusted.

dnf736, is that diagram out of a shop manual?

Has anybody found that their valves were actually in need of adjustment?
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 11:25 AM
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Mine did need adjusting and the consenus is that adjusting is a real need during initial breakin.

This type of tool is a big help.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...feeler_gauges/

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/tappet_tool_set/

I don't personally have these but bent some feeler gauges to match this and the bend at the tip is required.

This is what I did. Of course covers off and remove spark plug and valve adjust covers. You can reach the 4 bolts that hold the plastic fan cover on (10mm). Then a plastic plug for the timing marks. Use a quarter to remove the plug.

I didn't remove the tank or the bed. I did however remove the CVT pipe that comes from the front of the engine to above the head of the motor. Easy to get off, sucks to get back on.

I stuck a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and rotated the nut next to timing hole counter-clockwise. I don't remember the size of the nut. Hold the screwdriver that's in the spark plug hole and let in move in and out with the piston freely (don't let it bind). Watch the valves and when the piston is coming up on the power stroke watch as the screwdriver nears TDC. Shine a light in the timing marks hole. Mine had 3 dashes and I stopped at the center one. There's a slot in the side of the timing plug hole that should line up with the marks.

I used a .005" and .007" gauge for the intake and a .007" and .009" for the exhaust. I bent my gauges about a 1/4 inch from the end at a 45 degree angle. Mine would snap if bent with a tool so I bent with fingers to get a gradual curve. The .005" is the measurement for intake and the .007" is a no go gauge. Same with the exhaust but .007" is the measurement and .009" is a no go gauge.

The intake is easy. Do a initial check and of course if you don't have to adjust, then don't. If adjust, first break loose the nuts and then snug them. Next put a wrench over the nut and hold the square with small needle nose pliers. I loosened the nut while holding the adjustment then move the adjustment bolt then re-snug the nut. I kept this up until I had them good and then tightened the nut good but didn't check the torque spec. The .005" should be able to go in and feel like normal shim type resistance and the .007" shouldn't fit in.

For the rears I went from the passenger side and held the 10mm in the left hand. A long 10mm would work great I think. I held it under the frame and then held the adjust screw with the right hand and did the same type of adjustment. Loosen the nut move the screw and re-snug the nut.

I did all the valves 3 times including exhaust because I screwed them up the first 2 times. First mistake was rotating the engine clockwise to line up marks. The next time I thougth I had it right but when I started the valves were way too loose. Rechecked and they were. After that I did my adjust and the went through several revolution of the motor and realigned TCD and then recheck. I checked the valves 3 times after final adjust this way and when I was satisfied they were the same spot each time, I decided I was done and the engine did run great.

Now I don't see the valve adjust as anything difficult.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007, 11:41 AM
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One more thing do yourself a favor and get a 18mm spark plug socket. The toolbag one that comes in the rhino sucks.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...646&Division=6
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumblebat View Post
Thanks for the specs and the diagram. I think the 07 manual is a bit different though. I have not been able to find the clearances listed in it... Page 8-32 in an 07 owners manual only says that they should be adjusted.

dnf736, is that diagram out of a shop manual?

Has anybody found that their valves were actually in need of adjustment?
I pulled those numbers from the shop manual.

©hris
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chandler View Post
..........I did all the valves 3 times including exhaust because I screwed them up the first 2 times. First mistake was rotating the engine clockwise to line up marks. The next time I thougth I had it right but when I started the valves were way too loose. Rechecked and they were...........
It looks like you ran into the 'every other revolution' bugaboo there. Since the timing marks are on the crankshaft, the timing mark (and piston) comes up twice for every single revolution of the camshaft (4 stroke engine). One of those TDC's is the beginning of the intake stroke (or end of the exhaust stroke, where the exhaust valves are about to close [tappets loose], but the intake valves are about to open [tappets touching in order to open the valve]). The other TDC, exactly one more revolution of the crank later, is the beginning of the power stroke (or end of the compression stroke, where all of the valves are closed [all tappets have clearance]). This latter TDC is the one where you adjust the tappet clearances.

The shop manual page 3-5 seen in the earlier post above states:
NOTE:
• When the piston is at the Top Dead Center
(TDC) on the compression stroke, there
should be clearance between the valve stem
tips and their respective rocker arm adjusting
screws.

If there is no clearance, rotate the crankshaft
counterclockwise one turn.


So: find crankshaft TDC, wiggle the rocker arms to make sure that they are all loose. If any are tight, rotate the crank exactly one more turn, where you should find that they are all loose. Now, you are ready to check or adjust the valve clearances.

2004 Rhino 660
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info guys. I appreciate the time you guys are spending to look it up, scan it and type it all in... Thanks to you all!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007, 09:08 PM
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Steve,

Thanks I sorted it a year ago and my rhino runs great. You could be right but I sure thought I had the 4 stroke 2 revolution thing down. That's good info though.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 03:22 AM
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I would suggest not using a screwdriver to find TDC. I know they are handy, but you could gouge the top of the piston of cylinder wall. I use a plastic straw. I also do not use the timing marks. I just rotate the engine around to TDC and check the valves for clearance. If they are tight then I am 180 out. Rotate it another 180 and then adjust for clearances.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 10:09 AM
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About the timing marks - if I remember correctly you use the LAST tick mark of the three that appears, not the middle one. The other 2 are linked by a curved line and are not the operative ones. Somebody correct me if wrong ???
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclejay View Post
About the timing marks - if I remember correctly you use the LAST tick mark of the three that appears, not the middle one. The other 2 are linked by a curved line and are not the operative ones. Somebody correct me if wrong ???

This is exactly why I don't use timing marks. As previously stated the valves are closed on compression stroke. Thats roughly half a revolution that you can adjust your valves. Not just one little spot. Just look at the cam and you can watch how long the rockers are at the base circle of the cam.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 06:04 PM
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So you guy's valves were out of spec within 20 hours?

I have spaced adjusting my valves so far. I have no tapping, or symptoms of them being out of spec. 1000 miles so far. You guys think I've done any damage? I'll be checking them tomorrow............

ISA #1911
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 11:06 PM
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I did mine at 30 and they were way out. Exhaust was the worse of the two. You won't hear any clicking as they usually get tight which makes your valves stay slightly open. Loss of power is not usually noticeable since it gradually happens.

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