Middle Drive Gear...cheap insurance, or not yet? - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
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Middle Drive Gear...cheap insurance, or not yet?

I just got a new to me 2005 Rhino 660, looks to be well cared for (former owner was well off (banker) with multiple makes of UTVs on his weekend farm) body and undercarriage in like new shape with original tires (no hourmeter).

My question is this, should I do the middle gear drive plate as a preventative measure? My riding will be mild trails and grass with my daughter. Plan is to get some AT type tires so I know that means more stress on the drivetrain.

Anyone have a writeup on the engine r/r and the support plate install? How much time should I allot for it (I'm mechanically inclined)

Thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 07:07 PM
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Not a bad idea but you have to split the casses to do it. If your gonna keep it stock i would not go in there just to do that.

Just happy to be riding again
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 08:54 PM
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For mild to moderate use it should be just fine I wouldn't mess with it UNLESS you are already splitting the cases for other maintence the absolutely replace that gear support!
Or you are jumping it or doing a lot of stuff where you loose and gain traction A lot!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 07:35 AM
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considering the bolts back out over time i think it is a time bomb i would do it before it happens in my town 3 rhinos within a few months of each other had the midgear break i wish i had done mine before hand. you could do the whole process in a weekend. i say do it my $.02
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rhino 660 View Post
considering the bolts back out over time i think it is a time bomb i would do it before it happens in my town 3 rhinos within a few months of each other had the midgear break i wish i had done mine before hand. you could do the whole process in a weekend. i say do it my $.02
You really had 3 break? I have always been hard on mine and never had any problems with it. Put the new support in with the new motor just cause i was in there. Guess it would not hurt anything to put it in then you would no how to work on your motor if you do decide to upgrade power down the road.

Just happy to be riding again
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 07:51 AM
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yes i think when one breaks its like the flu and the other rhinos catch it lol dont hang around guys that have broken the midgear ours broke around 2000 miles with 27'' tires
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
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Seems to be a fair amount of busted ones without abuse then. Looks like I'll have to buy a support and plan on doing the upgrade this fall.

Any other things I should check/plan for while I'm in there?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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Yeah, if you're going to split the cases you might as well check all the bearings and oil pump gears/ housing . You will have to pull the cilinder off so it would a good time to hone the cilinder and put rings in it (check the bore for wear and round) . You can solvent test the valves and run t if good or take it in and have the head evaluated by a motorcycle / Atv machinest. Then you should have a fresh engine.


Btw r u a bass player ?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhino 660 View Post
considering the bolts back out over time i think it is a time bomb i would do it before it happens in my town 3 rhinos within a few months of each other had the midgear break i wish i had done mine before hand. you could do the whole process in a weekend. i say do it my $.02
I used a serrated flange head bolt (same as factory but with teeth) and red lock tight for this issue
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 10:28 PM
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if its opened up, gusset and weld up the middle drive plate tower, add a billet middle drive plate, put in a good aftermarket rod and forged piston, weld the pin,heliarc the decompression pins to the sprocket,add good head bolts,up the compression a tad,new oil pump and chain and timing chain...thats what I do...my two cents...I tack the middle drive bolts too..and I do alot more but thats all I'm saying..........lol.......

07 rhino,camo,bilsteins,camshaw 727,HSR carb,custom clutching,camshaw spindles,custom cage,bed delete,all go fast rzr eater! 714 883 6171

Last edited by CamShaw; 08-16-2012 at 06:34 AM.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 03:46 PM
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DO IT...

My rhino has been used as a hunting/recreational vehicle with no extreme riding...at 600 miles, riding down a gravel road, snap, crackle, pop...no warning... No odd sounds. Bought a replacement engine off a guy on here, but i am scared every time i ride it since the new engine is stock also...

I say if you can afford it, do it!!

2006 Camo Rhino 660 3" Lift, Stereo w/4 6.5" Spkrs, (2) 10" Subs & (2) 700 watt Amps, Light Bar w/5 Vision X HID Lights, Stock HID Replacements, Dual Odyssey Batteries, Orange Spring, Viper 5K, 29.5 Outlaws, HW Tri-Fire CDI, JBS Sheave, Greaseless weights, J Strong Doors, Yamaha Roof, Rear Bumper, 2" Tip, 500w Stator, Teryx Shocks, Snorkeled

Louis Lombas
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 06:07 AM
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Mine went out in 6 months, 2 friends had theres go 1 month apart. I say DEFFINATLY considering what new crank cases cost along with all the other bearings that you will need.

05 Stroked 720cc. 09 700 ... Sheave,OD Sliders.http://youtu.be/4vM2BLqDKVshttps://youtu.be/hVR0R-wSxKY
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