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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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High RPMS

Out riding the new rhino today I noticed that I was able to get to 44-45MPH but it sounded like it was at 9k RPMS. I never heard the limiter kick in. I can't imagine it getting more speed with an aftermarket CDI unless it adjusted the gearing? Is this something I should be concerned about? I am scared to run it wide open because it sounds like it is rapping out big time...
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 07:55 PM
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the stock rev limiter is set around 42mph,then it starts busting out,u can get around 55 mph with a jbs sheave and dynatek cdi box!!!

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 08:15 PM
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x2 Call james at jbs, his sheave is awesome! great low end and pulls hard all the way to the top. You wont regret it!
Cell: 304-673-2602 Shop: 304-877-3419

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 05:33 AM
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give me a call
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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I will definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for the info. So the high rpm sound of the motor is actually the limiter?? It feels like I could floor it till it blew up haha
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:03 PM
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It sounds like you already have a CDI...yes you can hold open long enough to blow it up...but it is not due to the rpms it is due to heat generated from max combustion at max throttle...

With the stock CDI you can hold open from a stop for no more than a total of 8 to 9 seconds before it hits the 40mph speed limiter and the ignition cuts out...

The length of time you hold it open for is what is the problem...if you run up to top speed occasionally and back off that is one thing...if you hold it wide open going down the road that is something all together different...

You are most likely turning about 7500 rpms at that speed...depending on tire size...speedo accuracy...and condition of your motor and CVT....

We are closed...2013
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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So if I do, good basic rule of thumb would be don't turn it over 39-40mph which is plenty fast for me, then that would keep any parts from breaking... I guess the guy I bought it from put one on it. It has 170 hours and was "supposedly" used for hunting, but it looks to be very well maintained. I will just keep it on the slow side
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:13 PM
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our sheave will fix that problem..more gearing
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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How hard is that to put in and how can i see if I have a aftermarket CDI? What is the cost for something like that?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
So if I do, good basic rule of thumb would be don't turn it over 39-40mph which is plenty fast for me, then that would keep any parts from breaking... I guess the guy I bought it from put one on it. It has 170 hours and was "supposedly" used for hunting, but it looks to be very well maintained. I will just keep it on the slow side
That is not what quite what I said...what I am saying is that it is how long you hold the throttle wide open that matters...not so much the rpms or vehicle speed...if you want to go more mph for the same rpms or the same mph for less rpms a sheave mod will do both of those...that would be the "gearing" you were talking about in your first post...

Also...if you motor has a week piston or rod then it will break sooner or later no mater what you do...but if you have weak parts the more heat you apply to them due to max combustion at max throttle (without regard for rpms or vehicle speed) the sooner they will break...

That motor could turn those rpms all day long if it were not for the heat being generated inside the combustion chamber required to get the motor to turn those rpms...they may run together...but not always...you can run uphill with a stock cdi at 30mph at full throttle and much lower rpms the heat is going to kill it if you don't back off the throttle after a reasonable amount of time...

Quote:
How hard is that to put in and how can i see if I have a aftermarket CDI? What is the cost for something like that?
We sell a CDI that only works with the stock cdi and not with an aftermarket cdi...it costs $109 shipped...

The way you can tell is if you never hit the rev limiter at over 40mph...you would not be able to go 45 mph with a stock cdi...

Your CDI is in your battery box as you look at he battery box it is on the left wall of the box...

We are closed...2013

Last edited by RuttingRhino; 02-16-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha, I understand what you mean now.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:29 PM
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MSD 4240 ignition

Picture of the MSD we sell and you can see the CDI on the left side against the wall...

Just to be clear...I think you already have a CDI based on your current top speed of well over 40mph and no rev limiter...so don't buy one unless you are sure yours is stock...

A sheave mod is what you want... call James...

We are closed...2013
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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There is definitely one in there, it isn't msd though, I will look and see what it says on it when I get home. Thanks again
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