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Need more power

This is a discussion on Need more power within the Engine forums, part of the Technical category; i have a 2007 660 with s.s. yosimura exhaust, Dynatek C.D.I , K&n filter box and duner clutch with 6' longtravel. I am looking at ...


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Old 02-12-2012, 06:24 PM
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AZ Need more power

i have a 2007 660 with s.s. yosimura exhaust, Dynatek C.D.I , K&n filter box and duner clutch with 6' longtravel. I am looking at getting the best performance without comprimising reliability and not going broke. Used mostly for the dunes

I have looked at the dry clutch (I hear it's to noisy)is it any louder than dual exhust or is it because it sounds like something is falling apart?

I have thought about big bore kit to 686

What would be the best way to go? The dry clutch only with maybe a dual exhuast upgrade.

Big bore kit with a machined clutch sheave along with the exhuast upgrade and some carb work?

trying to stay under $2,500

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2012, 06:32 PM
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You will be around that mabey a lil less to do a 686,cam,valve springs,port polish,good rod and blanced crank. Im bout to do the same thing and for parts and machine work will be around $1500 from the price i got from a vendor on hear. Then exhaust you can get used like i did or get a new alba for under $400 and that should double your hp!
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:33 PM
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our sheave will give you what you need in the clutch dep.alba has the big bore you need and the cam.rutting rhino has the fuel kit you need and you should be ready to go
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:37 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by WV Hot Rod Rhino View Post
our sheave will give you what you need in the clutch dep.alba has the big bore you need and the cam.rutting rhino has the fuel kit you need and you should be ready to go
Alba is where i got my quote from and where im gonna get my parts. Benchmark is close to double that in price.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:45 PM
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my buddies 686 from benchmark cracked in dec and i saw another 1 of their 686's cracked last week
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:02 PM
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So it sounds like go with the big bore kit and a machined sheave along with exhuast? What about the dry clutch/ will the dry clutch alone give me what the big bore ,exhaust and sheave will?
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:16 PM
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dry clutch is noticeable out of the gate,but besides that its a wash between the stock reliable wet clutch set up...spend the money on the top end,once thats maximized then go after the shortblock upgrades,stroker,big bore etc...you won't notice a damn bit going up the .o40 thousandths of an inch in bore unless you do upgrades etc,then its noticeable..
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:29 PM
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oh forgot, take off every piece of crap or bling that doesn't contribute to horsepower, heavy steel beds, bumpers,double batteries, radios,big coolers etc.........every 30#s in a rhino equals a loss of 1 hp at the rear wheels, and on something that only puts 20hp in stock form at the rear wheels it will make a big difference in the dunes..my 686 makes 48rwhp and its all top end bolts ons, thats on the same dyno that a stock 660 makes 20rwhp...most of these hillbillies on this forum have never been in the dunes let alone seen them, their rhino's are sooo heavy they wouldn't get out of camp at glamis, and what works in the hardpack doesn't always perform upto par in the sand...
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698cc 4mm crank 100.5 bore, Pro-flow/camshaw intake and head porting&flow bench head design and exhaust,duner cam,stock valves,welded cases,Camshaw engine tricks and mods,custom air intake system and breather kit,greaseless clutch(DOSDAYONA custom race curve)48 HSR mikuni carb, oem throttle cable mod, owner built cage and bed delete, 40" LED,alternator kit,camshaw spindles and gusseted oem rack,HD heim joint steering links,Jaz seats,5 point belts,gauges,STU blasters&whipsnakes,714-833-6171
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:42 PM
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I second everything Camshaw said. Besides that being a hilarious post, he's right. The only thing I would add is look into Weller's Stage 3 kit. I put it on with a Bronco Dry Cluth and I'm puttin down about 58rwhp.

Oh and the dry clutch is not as loud as everyone says it is. Trust me, it's worth it. Especially with bottom end, which is the most important element of hp when during.

Oh and Benchmark is solid. Anyone can blow a Motor. You don't drive a Built motor like you do a stock motor.

Last edited by SouthBay4Life; 02-27-2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:44 PM
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LMAO. . . . "hillbillies!"
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:44 PM
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My buddies Benchmark686 blew multiple head gaskets and rings twice
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:49 PM
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you always gota say something negative about the hillbilly...wow 48 hp...maybe you should do something to it so you could at least carry a cooler..lol
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for the help makes my desicion a little easier. Maybe will see at Glamis for presidents day. Looking to go with big bore kit exhaust and a good machined sheave. thanks agian
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:55 PM
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if i gutted mine like yours it would be alot faster but nobody can keep up now cause i have a bad ass motor..wheres yours..your all talk....i carry big cooler chainsaw radio tools heater and everything else i need and still bust ass..and you always gotta be a asshole...liquid courage prolly
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:56 PM
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58 rwhp is what an xp 875cc rzr makes on Proshops dyno, if thats the case I'd like to go duning with that.....I know dyno's differ dramatically, I've only used the proshops dyno, I know albas dyno runs 7hp higher than johns at the proshop, my buddys car chassis dyno runs 27hp higher than johns, yes 27 rwhp higher! amazing differences....but they are definately a great tuning tool, but with cvts you can lighten the clutches and blow big numbers and then they won't dune for crap as we found out with a buddys new motor, he blew 57 on a "so cal shops"(name omitted) dyno then we went to the hill we smoked him as his clutch wasn't right,but it blew a big number, making a duneable combo with HP and clutch application and being reliable is the ticket...
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