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back fire and sputter at high rpm

This is a discussion on back fire and sputter at high rpm within the Engine forums, part of the Technical category; Guys/gals, My rhino has been sitting for 3 months. started it today to find that is sputtering and mis/back firing and won't produce power at ...


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Old 10-17-2011, 03:26 PM
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back fire and sputter at high rpm

Guys/gals,

My rhino has been sitting for 3 months. started it today to find that is sputtering and mis/back firing and won't produce power at high rpm. Bad gas problem??? She ran great when I shut her down 3 months ago. Any help would be appreciated. I am not a mechanic, but can turn a wrench. So please let me know what I should try.

Thanks
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Last edited by SIQ RHINO; 10-17-2011 at 03:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:44 PM
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My recommendation is to take the carb off...apart...clean...inspect...re-assemble...problem might disappear...

If not my guess is you need a new slide/diaphragm for it...
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:06 AM
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lots of cases of this going around........
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:17 PM
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thanks Rutting... I am going to dis-assemble, clean, inspect and then try again tonight. Is a slide diaphram going to be tough to come by if I need on?
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2006 660, Dynatech CDI, K&N, Looney Tuned dual exhaust, KMS clutch with duner spring, Teezey 6" LT with 2.5" Kings, Gorilla Axles.

My Ocotillo Fun Bus.... She's not a speed demon, but sure is a lot of fun!!!!!!
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:29 PM
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[QUOTE=SIQ RHINO;572154]thanks Rutting... I am going to dis-assemble, clean, inspect and then try again tonight. Is a slide diaphram going to be tough to come by if I need on?[/QUOT hopefully that will fix your problem, if not we need to know how the spark plug looks it should be a tan color like cardboard..... black is rich and white is lean.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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Probably pretty easy to get...

You favorite dealership local or online might have one in stock but would probably have to order it...not a big deal...

But don't jump the gun on it...it could be other things too...

One of the nice features of my fuel kits is that you get a clear drain tube and instructions on how to check the static and dynamic fuel level inside your float bowl in addition to being able to visually verify the line to the carb is full...

If you have had your carb apart before then you have an easy task to take it apart and re-assemble...if not the hardest part of it is getting the oem screws out...

If you have a bone stock carb never opened I highly recommend installing a 45 pilot jet even with a stock intake/exhaust...

Our most basic fuel line kit is $30...and a 45 pilot is $10...and if you decide to get that it will include the replace SS SH screws for the carb...

You can replace the pilot jet while it's apart...then when back together it will idle better...the oem screws will not be a problem if you destroy them getting them out... and you will be able to see clearly your fuel is or isn't there to the carb and inside the carb as well...

That way if you do still have a problem you know it's very likely your diaphragm...in any event...trouble shooting these kinds of problems is much easier once you have the fuel kit, pilot jet, carb screws...

They are on website...all prices are shipped...items are in stock...
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:49 PM
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I agree with Red... always check your plug...

I don't recommend tuning your carb for plug color tho...

The value in it is to verify a good average condition...

I should have mentioned that if you have a high flow intake and/or exhaust and need a complete jet kit we have those too...

And if you don't have a high flow intake we have those too...
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