Another shifting issue - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
Engine For discussion of engine performance, and maintenance

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
Oil Spot
 
flyncoastie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kodiak Alaska
Posts: 21
Another shifting issue

I have a 05 660, It is sometimes very hard to shift into reverse. it seems I have to yank the crap out of the shifter to get it into reverse. I have tried adjusting idle and it doesn't help, I have made sure that the linkage was tightened and still hard to shift. It seems that there is some slack in output side of the shifter assy. is this normal or is something wearing out inside?
flyncoastie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Oil Spot
 
flyncoastie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kodiak Alaska
Posts: 21
another piece to the puzzle. if and when i finally get it to shift into reverse it gets stuck. I cant get it out. the shifter just gets jammed up and wont move and if and when I finally get it freed up sometime ill be in the neutral position and still have reverse light or be in neutral position and be in drive. any ideas?
flyncoastie is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 11:55 AM
Boss
 
RuttingRhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 3,239
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyncoastie View Post
I have a 05 660, It is sometimes very hard to shift into reverse. it seems I have to yank the crap out of the shifter to get it into reverse. I have tried adjusting idle and it doesn't help, I have made sure that the linkage was tightened and still hard to shift. It seems that there is some slack in output side of the shifter assy. is this normal or is something wearing out inside?
No clue what you mean about output/slack of the shifter assy... having the problems you have is common... but it is not how it should be... it should be flawlessly smooth in and out of all gears idling at a stop or with engine off at a stop... period...

If it shifts in and out of L,N,D as described... the problem is most likely linkage travel/position adjustment...

If it is all flubbed up all the time you may have something else going on...

Step one... eliminate linkage adjustment as the problem...

Does it go smoothly in/out of reverse parked with motor not running...???

We are closed...2013
RuttingRhino is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 12:22 PM
Sunday Driver
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
Similar...

I have a slightly similar situation on my 2006 660. I PLOW ALOT... I know this is NOT the fix and will be watching for a FIX too....

What I do is whatever gear I'm in at the time and want to go to Neutral I give the gas pedal a slight pump of gas and gets my Rhino "Rocking / Moving" just a little bit and then it will shift smoother. Seems I've been doing this for a looooong time now it is natural shift move for me. Then I have a Home Brew when done.
frogmaster is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Oil Spot
 
flyncoastie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kodiak Alaska
Posts: 21
rutting rhino: what I was referring to is the metal bracket that is on the left side of the shifter Assembly that connects to the rod itself. i can move that by hand quit a bit with out the handle itself moving. I disconected the linkage and everything shifts smoothly (while engine is off anyway). so i do think that it is either the shifter assembly box or linkage.

I also have kind of a hard time getting into low so is adjusting linkage to help reverse gonna hurt me trying to get into low?

Frogmaster: thanks for the tip I will try that out hopefully it will help.
flyncoastie is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 01:52 PM
Boss
 
RuttingRhino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 3,239
If it travels to one end of the selector with no problems and has a problem at the other end the it is probably a linkage adjustment...

The trick is to adjust it so it makes the throw fully from end to end...

So if it was set properly... and you mal-adjusted it... it then go all the way on one end but not the other...

Are you saying you can lever it in/out of all positions by hand with the linkage removed with no problems but with the linkage installed it won't work right...???

Keep is simple for now... make sure it's perfect with the motor not running...

If it won't work right with linkage installed but works by hand with linkage removed then it is external to the motor its in the shifter assy, the linkage, or the linkage adjustment... right...

Then if is shifts flawlessly from end to end with motor not running, but won't shift with motor running we can go from there...

I never had one that wasn't a simple adjustment... so you could have a worn or broken something or another...

You have to isolate it though...

Sorry I don't understand about the plow...if you have a plow and think the problem is related I couldn't help you... I never had one...

We are closed...2013
RuttingRhino is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
Oil Spot
 
flyncoastie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kodiak Alaska
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuttingRhino View Post
If it travels to one end of the selector with no problems and has a problem at the other end the it is probably a linkage adjustment...

The trick is to adjust it so it makes the throw fully from end to end...

So if it was set properly... and you mal-adjusted it... it then go all the way on one end but not the other...

Are you saying you can lever it in/out of all positions by hand with the linkage removed with no problems but with the linkage installed it won't work right...???

Keep is simple for now... make sure it's perfect with the motor not running...

If it won't work right with linkage installed but works by hand with linkage removed then it is external to the motor its in the shifter assy, the linkage, or the linkage adjustment... right...

Then if is shifts flawlessly from end to end with motor not running, but won't shift with motor running we can go from there...

I never had one that wasn't a simple adjustment... so you could have a worn or broken something or another...

You have to isolate it though...

Sorry I don't understand about the plow...if you have a plow and think the problem is related I couldn't help you... I never had one...

I just went and tried a few more things. as of right now with motor not running it moves nicely into all positions about 80% of the time, every once in awhile it seems to hang up just a bit. with motor running it seems the hadle goes into the reverse and low position but it is not actually in gear. most of the time you can here it grinding a bit and with a good jerk I can get it to engage. once I'm in reverse its real hard to get out. the handle wont even move. (engine on or off). so I disconnected the linkage and it moved freely in gearbox.

so I am thinking it is in the shifter assembly itself since there is so much slop in between it and the linkage ( moving the handle does not necessarily mean that the linkage moves).
flyncoastie is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 02:55 PM
Oil Spot
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Terre Haute,IN
Posts: 23
Had a hard shifting problem with my Rhino turned out to be the shift linkage arm that connects to the shifter shaft coming out of the engine case was loose.It is kinda easy to look down there and think all is well because you see the shifter arm moving back and forth when you are trying to shift. also you might want to remove the 6mm bolt and washer that hold that shifter arm in place and give that shifter arm and shaft a close inspection for wear.
victory1st is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 10:16 PM
WRR
Billy Goat
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Abbottsford, BC Canada
Posts: 197
OMG!! am I ever glad i did a search instead of a new topic. this is exactly my problem as described by rutting rhino.

my son played with the linkage rod, which probably explains why I have problems. original issue was difficulty getting into low range. now I have a problem with reverse, and to ice the cake, low range is acting up again. harder to shift when I'm on an incline.

i noticed the metal shift lever bracket is kind of wimpy and twists easily. so my hand shifter seems to slide and appear to shift okay, but it doesn't have much effect on the final push to the engine's shifter arm. I basically see 3 sections: the hand shift lever, the adjustable linkage rod, and the final shift arm on the engine. the only adjustment seems to be the linkage rod with lock nuts on either end.

so how finicky are these to fine tune and get right? Is there anywhere else to look and try to get this right?

is it possible the shift lever bracket twists and contorts, adding to the difficulty? This bracket almost needs a gusset or something to stop it from moving.

thanks
WRR is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 07:41 PM
Sparky
 
willykiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 615
If the idle speed is too high, the drag created by the clutch will make it extremely hard to shift, the clutch engages around 1700 to 1750 rpm.......so keep the idle down to below 1700rpm...........

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................
willykiller is offline  
post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:42 PM
WRR
Billy Goat
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Abbottsford, BC Canada
Posts: 197
thanks for that...my idle is stupid high. I'm wondering if the after-market electric fuel pump plays a role in that. I'm thinking of removing that fuel pump.
WRR is offline  
post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 10:49 AM
Spectator
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Idle

Just adjust the idle.
Dukkiller is offline  
post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 05:17 PM
Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: ridgeland
Posts: 74
had probs with mine ,so i took it apart and put shims on shifter rod that goes into the shifter housing. got a how to on here somewhere with some photos , the clicker could have came apart and be blocking it to ,thats what caused the slack, cause i was jerking it in rev all the time

06 660
27 mud lights 14 in itp rims
snorkled for crek ridding
200 w wake board speakers
to drained out belt noise
lots more to come
crazyazsredneck is offline  
post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 06:07 PM
Puddle Jumper
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 175
shimmed mine too..works great now.. and i took the white peace with spring out of shifter housing also..easier to shift
rampage11 is offline  
post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 09:39 PM
Sparky
 
willykiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 615
I did mine too, I made a shim from .003'' shim stock, made it fit the square hole and slide the square shaft back into the plastic block, works super..............

[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats. Dual cooling rads with fans.................
willykiller is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net > Technical > Engine

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome