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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
Spectator
 
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Gear reduction

Hey guy im new to the rhinos and im wanting to buy one pretty soon but im wanting to know if there is a gear reduction for any of the rhino models? Thanks and if this question has already been talked about, sorry i just cant find anything on it.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 07:35 AM
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I have never heard of any gear reduction for them...however low gear is low enough that I never used it
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Biggjim View Post
I have never heard of any gear reduction for them...however low gear is low enough that I never used it
Its not low enough for 30+ " tires and heavy mud...

But...never the less....theres no gear reduction avaliable
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggjim View Post
I have never heard of any gear reduction for them...however low gear is low enough that I never used it
Its not low enough for 30+ " tires and heavy mud...

But...never the less....theres no gear reduction avaliable
Ahhhhh makes sence why I have never seen a use for low gear
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. Well i guess ill be ok. Im wanting to put a 6" lift on it and some 31s. I wasnt sure if it would turn em in thick mud. Thanks
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:34 AM
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Be aware, that reverse is not as low as LOW. So you may be able to spin the tires going into the mud, but you probably wont be able to spin them enough to back out after getting stuck...

Ben Haines
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:43 AM
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add a heavier secondary spring and 2 grams less rollers in the primary for those big tires also



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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:52 AM
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Send your sheave off to mad mike from Grizz Central. He machines the bottom end of grizz ones, id assume its the same as the rhino (not the same as the machine job done for speed over here). With a 1mm shim, and the machined sheave from him the starting gear ratio is 30% lower. Pair that with an EPI white, and some 14/16g weight combos, and you will turn 31s no problem.

Id assume top end speed isnt a factor for you, but if it is, he can mod the cam plate aswell to make up for his bottom end machining, to not lose any top speed.

Just looked the 700s are the same part numbers for the cam plates. same with the 660s. But it seems the sheaves have a different part number. Not sure the difference. But Im sure mike could tell you, or he could get ahold of Coop45 to find out. Coop45 has been doing low end sheave mods for years on yami, ac, and suzuki. So im sure he would know, aswell as how much to take out. He quit doing it as it was taking too much time away from his family, and passed the torch onto mad mike with all his specs.

07 Grizzly 700, 11:1 Stock Bore, G axles up front, 27" 589s, powermadd handguards, heated grips, One off dual 2" intake snorkels, 2" CVT snorkels, and a can-do attitude.

Last edited by N49ATV; 06-02-2010 at 10:09 AM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 04:35 PM
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I did my 450 by adding 1.5 mm worth of shims and then modified my cam plate. With red secondary spring she really jumps when you tromp down the accelerator. I don't think I lost any top speed since I was able to hit 37 mph on a dirt road with a four seat cage extension, windshield, roof, two kids in the back, with seats, and two adults in the front. I haven't even had a chance to play with the jetting.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 05:18 PM
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Well, the shims will give you about 5% lower starting gear. The machining is up to 30%. 26% with no shim, and 30% without. If its a 660, get the 686 kit, mud buster cam, and a CDI box. And you will turn 30s just fine.

07 Grizzly 700, 11:1 Stock Bore, G axles up front, 27" 589s, powermadd handguards, heated grips, One off dual 2" intake snorkels, 2" CVT snorkels, and a can-do attitude.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 06:55 AM
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Shims are a cheap ratio reduction with sacrifices to top end, like 8mph.
The best is to do mod#3, as this will give you 25% lower ratio, and 25% lower engine braking, this is great for those larger tire applications or mudding, and will not hurt top speed at all!!!!!
Then if you want more top speed, just send the steel cam plate that rests on the rollers, and I will perform mod#2, this will give you an additional 6-8 mph on top.
Let me know if you are interested.
Thanks
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 09:51 AM
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Check out our sheave under supporting venders and vids in action!!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 03:45 PM
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dude, forget the rest and buy the best..spend your money on the new hot rod sheave from JBS... I did and can tell you it makes the rhino a different machine... prolly one of the best mods for the money... low is freakin awsome....

07 rhino 660
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2011, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by muddslinger View Post
dude, forget the rest and buy the best..spend your money on the new hot rod sheave from JBS... I did and can tell you it makes the rhino a different machine... prolly one of the best mods for the money... low is freakin awsome....
x2...waited out a rain storm in his shop today...the man knows his stuff!! Showed me where the mods where made; and , explained in DETAIL how, and why they worked!! I put one of his sheaves in my 700 last weekend, and let me tell you...it is a COMPLETELY different bike!!! CRAZY low end now, places I used to go to low before I went up-now I barely give it the gas to go up in hi!! I even pulled the front wheels goin up a rock ledge I had been up numerous times before!! All of that new-found tourqe...and gained a 10mph increase on the top...plus cut the noise level and vibrations almost in half! IMO this is THE BEST mod anyone could do for the money!!!!
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