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This is a discussion on Removed Duners Blue spring- Shift Changed up within the Engine forums, part of the Technical category; I removed the Blue Duners spring in the secondary clutch and put back stock spring and my shift was felt @ around 7000RPM instead of ...
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I removed the Blue Duners spring in the secondary clutch and put back stock spring and my shift was felt @ around 7000RPM instead of around 6500 RPM.
Is there any other spring than the blue that would start the shift earlier around 6000 RPM?
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720 kit, 10.25/1 Comp, Mud Buster Cam, Mikuni 45, K & N, Ron Woods Pipe, 8000 RPM Tack, HID Kit, Douglas Red Labels, 7 Pdl Hauler Extreme rears, 7 Pdl Glider fronts,Walker Evans Shocks, LSR Mid Travel, 13g weights, CamShaw's Sheave, Re-enforced Spindles, Bed Delete, & Custom Cage. BYC Frt Gusset. |
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You would need to go with a lighter spring than stock to get the shift lower. I will check with EPI and see if they have one. Orange will make the shift at an even higher RPM.
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Thanks for the :Flop" explanation. I guess the flop is from the Sheave with the 13 g weights. What am I trying to get is my speed in the big dunes without going over 7,000 RPM. It hits 53 MPH in the bowls and flats but if I go down the big dunes it starts to go beyond the 7000 RPM. (I watch the Tach). Would like it to hit 60 MPH and still be in the safe range of RPM.
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720 kit, 10.25/1 Comp, Mud Buster Cam, Mikuni 45, K & N, Ron Woods Pipe, 8000 RPM Tack, HID Kit, Douglas Red Labels, 7 Pdl Hauler Extreme rears, 7 Pdl Glider fronts,Walker Evans Shocks, LSR Mid Travel, 13g weights, CamShaw's Sheave, Re-enforced Spindles, Bed Delete, & Custom Cage. BYC Frt Gusset. |
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the flop is from the sheave, not the weights. Its either a worn used sheave when it was machined or was machined too far or likely both. It will always flop, you can only change the rpm it hapens at.
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