660 with blown head gasket maybe? - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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660 with blown head gasket maybe?

Hey guys I hava a 2007 rhino 660 with a 686 big bore kit and many other mods. You can let it sit and idle for a while and you will see bubbles come up in the catch tank when it gets warm. Then after a while It will slowly blow most of the coolant out of it. Now whats weird is that the cooling fan will kick on then back off. Therefor, we know its no its not overheating or the fan would stay on. No water in oil and compression test is good. With good compression I dont know how the head gasket could be busted but Why else would the coolant fill the tank until it overflows? Any Ideas? Has anyone seen a rad cap go bad on a rhino and not hold pressure?

Thanks in advance guys!!!

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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 08:35 PM
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To me it sounds like the headbolts have come loose or streched.I had this same problem with the first couple big bores i did.Did you do the big bore?Ive seen a ton of these have problems only when the head stud torque is set to factory specs which is something like 28 ft lb.Thats way to low for a big bore with higher compression.When i do these motors i set the torque to 39ft lbs.And have not had any issues.
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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 08:36 PM
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Also are you running the stock radiator fan?
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 08:40 PM
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If you have a blown gasket odd are you are you are over heating. What happens is the machine vapor locks in the head and blows all the coolant out. You dont think its hot because your fan switch is in the radiator and you no longer have hot coolant going into the radiator. Change the head gasket and get yourself some head studs

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 09:17 PM
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I had a similar problem sediment was in the coolant system. This was caused by the previous owner putting water out of creek in it. Flushed the coolant system numerous times still had a problem. The problem turned out to be that air had gotten in the system flushed system then pulled vaccuum on it. That was 400 miles ago havnt had a prob since.
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggjim View Post
If you have a blown gasket odd are you are you are over heating. What happens is the machine vapor locks in the head and blows all the coolant out. You dont think its hot because your fan switch is in the radiator and you no longer have hot coolant going into the radiator. Change the head gasket and get yourself some head studs
Jim is right. The sending unit to turn your fan on is on your radiator, if it has no coolant in it the switch will not sense heat and therefore the fan wont turn on.

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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggjim View Post
If you have a blown gasket odd are you are you are over heating. What happens is the machine vapor locks in the head and blows all the coolant out. You dont think its hot because your fan switch is in the radiator and you no longer have hot coolant going into the radiator. Change the head gasket and get yourself some head studs
Agree 100%, blown head gaskets on a 686 big bore are quite common (I assume because of the reduced cylinder wall thickness and therefore reduced sealing surface).
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 10:31 PM
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Just run it

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Last edited by Biggjim; 12-10-2009 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Why drop knoldge to know it alls
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 11:50 PM
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You could do a coolant system pressure test to be sure, but it sounds to me like its blown. I had the same symptoms when mine was blown.

2007 Rhino 660
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 12:34 AM
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blown head gasket, the stock head bolts r a 1 time use after that they just strech and never hold, get a new head gasket and the stud kit fromm kms and touque them to 45lbs and forget about it. probleum foxed
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 05:27 AM
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Call hunterworks and get you a set ARP studs.
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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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hey thanks for all the info. yes i know the switch for the fan is on the rad and the temp light is on the cyl head. Its not overheating when there is coolant in it im for sure. it only over heats after most of the coolant blows out of it in about 30 min. then there is not enough coolant for the rad to get hot enough for the fan to even kick on.

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post #13 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by slydogge View Post
the temp light is on the cyl head.
only vapors are getting to you temp sending unit thas why it doesnt read hot all the coolant is gone.

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post #14 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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no the temp light will come on. see thats what got me to look at it. The temp light came on but no rad fan running? then I knew something was up and started to check it out to see what was going on. when most of the coolant slowly overfills the coolant tank and the system is running about 1/2 full not enough water gets to the rad for the rad fan temp sensor to tell the fan to come on. There is still enough coolant for the engine and to fill the lower part of the rad.

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post #15 of 48 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slydogge View Post
no the temp light will come on. see thats what got me to look at it. The temp light came on but no rad fan running? then I knew something was up and started to check it out to see what was going on. when most of the coolant slowly overfills the coolant tank and the system is running about 1/2 full not enough water gets to the rad for the rad fan temp sensor to tell the fan to come on. There is still enough coolant for the engine and to fill the lower part of the rad.
If your temp light has come on...forget it!!! It might as well be a "blown head gasket light"

Sure it still has enough fluid in it to fill the head but its VAPOR LOCKED so its not going to....

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