I have 1000mi. on my rhino and I want to check/replace my V belt, I just wanted to know what to look for and any helpful advice that anyone could provide will be appreciated. Thank You for your time and replies

Wouldn't hurt to do it now and service the sheave at the same time, keep the old belt for a spare

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If you voted for Obama to prove you are not racist- Who are you going to vote for to prove you are not an idiot?

I changed mine at 2000 miles and it still looked good... I will bet it could of went another 2000 miles....

As long as you dont run a CVT Filter it will last a long time....

If you decide to install an Aftermarket Sheave then you should go ahead and change the belt while you are in there...

Take the old belt an zip tie it to the frame or anywhere that you can find under the hood. Then it will always be there for a spare.

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2006 Rhino 660
BRP Stage 2 CDI - UTVCrap Sheave
ITP T-7C Wheels (5+2 front offset & 2+5 Rear)
Big Horn Tires (25x8x12 & 25x10x12)
LSR MTS +3 Mid Travel Kit
Bilstein Shocks-250lb front & 400lb rear

I have a shop manual, ive read everything in the maitnence section and there isn't anything about servicing the sheave. Also, what are thr pro's and con's of upgrading it..

What's wrong with having the filter, just to be curious?

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“You like to use the outdoors? Well maybe your children would like that opportunity also, protect and fight for your land before it is gone!"
07 Rhino, aftermarket cage and doors, Billet Speciality Beadlocks, LST LT w/Elkas, Bronco clutch, light bar w/ 4 HIDS, PRP seats and lots of other money wasted....

You replace the grease for the rollers, a buddy has 4000 miles on his and has never done a belt replacement or service his sheave but do you gamble?
There really is not a bad side to upgrading to a machined sheave. It will lower your rpm in the 35mph range and give you a few more mph on top if you do a cdi box.



The cvt needs alot of air to stay cool enough to avoid destroying belts! A little dirt in the belt drive is better than heat

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If you voted for Obama to prove you are not racist- Who are you going to vote for to prove you are not an idiot?

Take it off then, had it on for 600 miles with no issues I know of. Thx

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“You like to use the outdoors? Well maybe your children would like that opportunity also, protect and fight for your land before it is gone!"
07 Rhino, aftermarket cage and doors, Billet Speciality Beadlocks, LST LT w/Elkas, Bronco clutch, light bar w/ 4 HIDS, PRP seats and lots of other money wasted....

A good choice!

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If you voted for Obama to prove you are not racist- Who are you going to vote for to prove you are not an idiot?

The sheave mod is a must do for any rhino with an aftermarket cdi imo...

While you are at it you should go with a stiffer secondary spring...the combination of the two if you select to right secondary spring with a cdi will give you the ability to get around 13 mph more top speed for the same max rpms...

No losses...only gains...cheap-n-ez...

Yep.... what they said...

Get rid of the CVT Filter right away.... it needs air to breathe and keep it cool.

Call UTV Crap and order a machined sheave for your Rhino. No negatives about it.... all positive. It will give you more top speed while lowering your RPM's. The UTV Crap Sheave comes with a spacer so it will also give you just a little mroe bottom end. While you are isntalling the sheave go ahead and replace the belt since you are in there.... Make sure you get an OEM belt as they are the best. The aftermarket belts suck... Here are some simple installation instruction that will help you out.

http://utilityoffroad.com/tech/rhino/pulley/index.html

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2006 Rhino 660
BRP Stage 2 CDI - UTVCrap Sheave
ITP T-7C Wheels (5+2 front offset & 2+5 Rear)
Big Horn Tires (25x8x12 & 25x10x12)
LSR MTS +3 Mid Travel Kit
Bilstein Shocks-250lb front & 400lb rear

Im going to order that better sheave and...i guess take off my cvt filter, although its hard to think of all that dirt in there..

You guys suggest dynatek? I want more hore power, more speed, without hurting my engine in any way.

Replaced my sheave and belt at 3600 miles. According to UTV Crap my stock sheave was destroyed, but the belt looked perfect. Kept old belt as a spare.

I just ordered the machined sheave from utv crap. thanks for your help guys. What else should i Get LOL.. its christmas

Isn't that spelled whore.... JK...

Seriously the machined sheeve is the best aftermarket addition I did to my rhino.

I have 1800 miles on my rhino and have not changed the belt. I had 5200 hard miles on my grizzly 660 before I changed the belt for the first time and the dealer said I really didnt have to do it then I just wanted to since it had so many miles on it. I kept the old belt and it measured right up to the new one. yamahas get alot of life out of a belt, much much more life than alot of other machines due to a different transmission setup. Polaris use belts like its gasoline, yamahas not so much....

Get yourself a machined sheeve, you will be happy. Change the belt while your at it if you feel like it, however I really feel you could get alot more use out of your original belt if you want. The call is yours..



Do these rhinos have a cvt filter on them stock?? Would an aftermarket K&N style filter move enough air if someone wanted to use some sort of filter or is it better off just taking the filter off all together and opening it up??? just looking for opinions on this.....


wow, before asking that question, be prepared... you may get a million dollars in answers...


I have a dynatek ignition and machined sheeve. I love the combination however I would have purchased a different ignition if I had it to do over since I have had problems with my dynatek and have had to return it. The one I got in return was a remanufactured one so hopefully I dont have the problems with it that I had before. Others on this forum have used msd and other brands and have had great luck. I would recommend one of them. My machined sheeve gave me 11mph on top and my dynatek gave me 9mph without loosing any power or speed in any other place. those are top speeds. I think they are the best aftermarket additions you can buy other than any safety equipment which is also good to have.

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2008 Rhino 700 special edition 4 seater in steel blue with dynatek ignition, Rigid clutch sheeve, 27" ITP mudlight XL tires, gorilla 3.0xt winch, One industries graphics.
2005 Yamaha RX-1 LE with full power performance stage 2 turbo SOLD
2004 Polaris xc 700 sp with some mods

THERES NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT!!!

LET THOSE WHO RIDE DECIDE!!

Had 1200 miles on mine when I did the rhino crap sheave - belt was worn - measure the width of the belt to tell, can't remember what it was supposed to be but it was about 1/8" narrower than a new one. I have never ran a cvt filter and the housing was clean - been in the sand, desert, mountains etc. Sheave is definately worth the investment.

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'06 Rhino 660 SE
C-Series ITP's
1.75" spacers
K&N w/jet kit
Dynatek CDI, Exhaust tip
Duner clutch with
RhinoCrap Sheave
Seats, cage bla bla bla